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The Official MTD USA Thread

Anyone using their MTD’s with a preamp pedal/pedalboard setup with iems and no amp/cab? If so, may I ask what your favorite preamp pedal is for these basses? There’s obviously high end zing for days so I’d love to warm it up a little. Clean tone only. Thanks
You should really consider adding a tone knob to your MTD. You can set the roll-off point to your liking via different cap values and it eliminates that boutique zing when you need more classic/vintage tones.
 
Anyone using their MTD’s with a preamp pedal/pedalboard setup with iems and no amp/cab? If so, may I ask what your favorite preamp pedal is for these basses? There’s obviously high end zing for days so I’d love to warm it up a little. Clean tone only. Thanks
I’m assuming your avatar picture is your bass. Got any more pics?
 
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I’m assuming your avatar picture is your bass. Got any more pics?
Yes, that’s the main bass, and I love it. It does have the passive tone knob, and I’m very happy with how it sounds. I’m just trying to find a good preamp/DI pedal since we currently don’t use amps on stage. Thanks.
A0273373-6276-4837-9D16-C7737784613C.jpeg
 
Yes, that’s the main bass, and I love it. It does have the passive tone knob, and I’m very happy with how it sounds. I’m just trying to find a good preamp/DI pedal since we currently don’t use amps on stage. Thanks.
View attachment 4414386

Hi,Justin. According to your needs, my experience is to use some preamp/DI which has cab sims function. The cab sims will cut the high end off very well. I'm using the Shift Line Olympic preamp now and since its cab sims function is so useful, so I practice with earphone with this pedal all the time now, seldom practice with amp nowdays.
Pedal.jpegOlympic_MkIIIS_05_10.jpg
And here's my two MTDs!
Sara.jpeg 535.jpeg
 
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Yes, that’s the main bass, and I love it. It does have the passive tone knob, and I’m very happy with how it sounds. I’m just trying to find a good preamp/DI pedal since we currently don’t use amps on stage. Thanks.
View attachment 4414386
I would encourage trying out the LeBass pedal for DI. Really love what it’s done for our band.
 
Yes, that’s the main bass, and I love it. It does have the passive tone knob, and I’m very happy with how it sounds. I’m just trying to find a good preamp/DI pedal since we currently don’t use amps on stage. Thanks.
View attachment 4414386
There are many solutions for DI to the board these days. You may want to spend some time perusing the Effects forum, in which there are at least two or three informative and extensive threads. There are both outstanding DI’s, such as REDDI and Demeter, and a whole range of excellent preamp DI’s, such as Mesa, Noble, Arkham, Shift Line, etc, etc; too many to name.

The choice comes down to how much tonal control you want to retain, and what kind of tone you prefer in your standard rig.

Ampless projection tone is ultimately determined by the Sound Engineer. One philosophy is to feed them a really clean signal and hope for the best. If you go that route, a good DI is really all you need. That choice makes a lot of sense.

I chose to go with a preamp/DI on a pedal board; mainly because I wanted to try to use the same signal chain front end for either Backline or Ampless performances. Not that I think a pedal board is a good location for the preamp; but, from a schlep/setup perspective, it is nice to have the front end all in one place. I chose the Shift Line preamp, because it is fairly close in the tonal character to the Demeter and Alembic preamps that I used for many years; a character that I would describe as potent and clean, but with a bit of “reverb-ish” spatial character from the preamp tube.

The other part of the preamp/DI aspect to consider is more practical; basically power management. The Noble has a bunch of 9V jacks and makes a great power center for other pedal boxes. The Shift Line can run off of 12V higher current supplies, but still get the tube fully biased. Other preamps may require plugging in multiple 120VAC cords; and I’ve avoided those, simply because I have enough cords in my life at setup/tear down anyhow. YMMV.

Here is my MTD and my do-all pedal board.

7D283DD7-3F25-4424-9BB8-50BC8ACE2474.jpeg

F96B3082-B688-4347-9564-799F00FBCD98.jpeg
 
I love my Line6 Rely G10S. It’s the first wireless that I’ve used where I actually like the tone. The problem I have is with my US MTDs (Saratoga PJ & 534-24). I get a high pitched tone that prevents me from using the wireless. I don’t have an issue with my other active basses, just the MTDs.

Any insights?
 
I love my Line6 Rely G10S. It’s the first wireless that I’ve used where I actually like the tone. The problem I have is with my US MTDs (Saratoga PJ & 534-24). I get a high pitched tone that prevents me from using the wireless. I don’t have an issue with my other active basses, just the MTDs.

Any insights?

It's an inherent problem with active electronics and these plug-style wireless transmitters. When the transmitter sits too close to the electronics, this can happen, and it varies greatly depending which wireless transmitter and which active bass you use. It's why I don't use this transmitter format, period.

That said, additional shielding of the electronics compartment may or may not help.

My advice: Line 6 has many other Relay models. See if one of the belt/pocket transmitters fits your needs. I have the G75, which is absolutely rocksolid and perfect in my opinion for many reasons, but unfortunately it's discontinued.
 
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There are many solutions for DI to the board these days. You may want to spend some time perusing the Effects forum, in which there are at least two or three informative and extensive threads. There are both outstanding DI’s, such as REDDI and Demeter, and a whole range of excellent preamp DI’s, such as Mesa, Noble, Arkham, Shift Line, etc, etc; too many to name.

The choice comes down to how much tonal control you want to retain, and what kind of tone you prefer in your standard rig.

Ampless projection tone is ultimately determined by the Sound Engineer. One philosophy is to feed them a really clean signal and hope for the best. If you go that route, a good DI is really all you need. That choice makes a lot of sense.

I chose to go with a preamp/DI on a pedal board; mainly because I wanted to try to use the same signal chain front end for either Backline or Ampless performances. Not that I think a pedal board is a good location for the preamp; but, from a schlep/setup perspective, it is nice to have the front end all in one place. I chose the Shift Line preamp, because it is fairly close in the tonal character to the Demeter and Alembic preamps that I used for many years; a character that I would describe as potent and clean, but with a bit of “reverb-ish” spatial character from the preamp tube.

The other part of the preamp/DI aspect to consider is more practical; basically power management. The Noble has a bunch of 9V jacks and makes a great power center for other pedal boxes. The Shift Line can run off of 12V higher current supplies, but still get the tube fully biased. Other preamps may require plugging in multiple 120VAC cords; and I’ve avoided those, simply because I have enough cords in my life at setup/tear down anyhow. YMMV.

Here is my MTD and my do-all pedal board.

View attachment 4418663
View attachment 4418662

That bass is HOT!!! What are the woods/specs?

Bonus points for black hardware not putting wood knobs on this beauty. And these aren't the standard black knobs they use??
 
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It's an inherent problem with active electronics and these plug-style wireless transmitters. When the transmitter sits too close to the electronics, this can happen, and it varies greatly depending which wireless transmitter and which active bass you use. It's why I don't use this transmitter format, period.

That said, additional shielding of the electronics compartment may or may not help.

My advice: Line 6 has many other Relay models. See if one of the belt/pocket transmitters fits your needs. I have the G75, which is absolutely rocksolid and perfect in my opinion for many reasons, but unfortunately it's discontinued.

Thanks! I have a 1.5 foot extension. This allows me to mount the transmitter on the strap. Seems to have solved the problem!
 
That bass is HOT!!! What are the woods/specs?

Bonus points for black hardware not putting wood knobs on this beauty. And these aren't the standard black knobs they use??
Those are the same knobs that Sadowsky and others use. I’m just used to them.

Northern Ash body, roasted BEM neck, ebony fingerboard, figured walnut top, minimally carved 17 mm neck with 18mm spacing at the bridge, 34” scale, Pope preamp, Nordstrand Zen Blades.

The result is a fairly articulate more R&B oriented bass. Very versatile. Weight is about 9.5 pounds.
 
Those are the same knobs that Sadowsky and others use. I’m just used to them.

Northern Ash body, roasted BEM neck, ebony fingerboard, figured walnut top, minimally carved 17 mm neck with 18mm spacing at the bridge, 34” scale, Pope preamp, Nordstrand Zen Blades.

The result is a fairly articulate more R&B oriented bass. Very versatile. Weight is about 9.5 pounds.

That is by far the coolest figured walnut top I have seen! And I have a pretty decent one myself. ;)

26-FE85-CE-8847-44-ED-B462-D0-D0-B5-EFFCCE.jpg
 
kilointernational.com
care to share your part number list as well, so those interested know what to order without having to duplicate the research you already did? :)

Also, did you use any wood veneer or brass tubing to make up for the fact I believe those are solid shaft knobs but the bass has split shafts?
 
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