There are certain attributes that Mike Tobias usually assigns to certain tone woods. From what I have seen:
Ash = growly
Poplar = punchy
Alder = warm/clear
Ash = growly
Poplar = punchy
Alder = warm/clear
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The Official MTD USA Thread
- Thread starter johnpaulbass
- Start date
The strap locks on MTDs are Dunlop Dual Design: STRAPLOK® STRAP RETAINERS DUAL DESIGN - BLACK OXIDE - Dunlop (jimdunlop.com)
Well, a tulipwood body paired with a wenge/wenge neck was generally considered to be the classic MTD combo back in the day. That combination seems to have fallen out of favour somewhat over the last couple of decades but I would guess that this is partly because of aesthetics (tulipwood is not very interesting to look at). Wenge isn't used as much in MTD builds as it used to be either (though this might have to do more with limited availability). Regardless, I wouldn't hesitate to drop Mike a line and ask him the same question you've asked here.
I once had a 535 with Tulipwood body and burl top with the wenge neck/fingerboard combo. I agree that tulipwood is not all that interesting to look at. It is also very soft and will ding easily. But Mike seems to like it and he is the master so I'd ask him for more (and better) narrative.
There is no special sauce contained in the poplar Mike is selecting, beyond the beauty of the lumber itself. He found a unique pattern, and used it.
Poplar, Alder, and even pine have been used for decades in guitar bodies as tonewoods, as previously stated, so other than accepting that no 2 instruments sound quite identical, that should be considered a non-issue.
Yes, if you start reading janka hardness scales, you'll see all three are relatively soft. However...
Food for thought: Isn't walnut a nice, gorgeous hardwood? Thousands of drool-worthy MTD's out there with it as the guitar top. Place a slab of walnut next to poplar on a bench and wail away with a blunt object. You'll likely find a very minor difference in the depth of dings, but one will look about as beat up as the other.
If you like the bass and promise to be nice with it, the Poplar will be fine, or Mr. Tobias would have had the good sense to select another species with a different dazzling figure, as he's so masterful at doing.
If you really love the look and all other features check all the right boxes, I'd not let the minutia of the lumber's physical properties keep you from scooping up an instrument you are certain to love, every time you pick it up.
- Oct 23, 2005
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- Disclosures
- Endorsing Artist: MTD Basses, Bartolini, Genzler Amplification, GHS, Tsunami Cables, Sonic Nuance
With the extremely hard and durable catalyzed acrylic urethane finish MTD uses, my feeling is that you don't have to be very concerned with lumber hardness. At least not as concerned as you'd have to be with an oil/wax finish (which I had lots of experience with prior). The nice thing about oil/wax - you can repair it, and pretty easily! The nice thing about auto body finishes: you don't have too 
My first 535 was a poplar body, maple burl top and wenge neck/fb, and a slightly chunkier feeling neck than others I've played.
Lovely sounding instrument, but had quite a mid-scooped voicing, which i couldn't quite get a mids dialled in quite to my tastes with the pre, so ultimately i didn't hang on to it.
My current ash/maple and alder/maple 535s have way less attenuation in the mids.
Lovely sounding instrument, but had quite a mid-scooped voicing, which i couldn't quite get a mids dialled in quite to my tastes with the pre, so ultimately i didn't hang on to it.
My current ash/maple and alder/maple 535s have way less attenuation in the mids.
Incidentally, and i think it's been said before, you really need to experiment with the pre to get the best out of these basses. Don't be afraid to massively boost or cut the eq to find what works. Its ok to stray away from the centre detents on the pots 
Thanks for the info and link, ordered and should be in my hands tomorrow.
Incidentally, and i think it's been said before, you really need to experiment with the pre to get the best out of these basses. Don't be afraid to massively boost or cut the eq to find what works. Its ok to stray away from the centre detents on the pots
100%. Was commenting that very same sentiment to a friend this afternoon. Mikes pre/pups are 100% usable across their entire boost/cut range. It’s the most musical sounding electronics package of any bass I’ve owned. It was designed to be tweaked and manipulated across its entire band. So yeah. What he said
I was watching this video interview with Mike from several years ago and lo and behold, the topic of Poplar (tulip wood) came up. Hear it from Mike directly at the point in the interview where he talks about it:
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No, but I've liked the sound of some 535s more than others.
I’ve had several USA MTD’s (somewhere around 10 or so I think) and currently have two 534’s. There has never been one that I strongly disliked the sound of but there are some I’ve liked more than others. All of them I’ve had or ever played are in a different league than so much of what is else is out there on the market. With anything Mike Tobias builds it seems to be just different flavors of excellence.
Not at all. As has been pointed out above. The MTD preamp is very versatile. Don't be afraid to use extreme settings if that gets your tone.
Having said that, not every bass is for every player amd we all have our preferences. Tons of high end options out there if MTD isn't your flavor.
I did when I got my Super 5. Still hurts...
If the Super pickups were in the traditional location do you think the tone would have been more to your liking?
