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The official "Show your basses" thread part 19!

Finished my P/J ‘assembly’ today... joined the crew!! :bassist:
Go MarkBass!!
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Looks like the knobs are really tight together?
yeah, I had a limited space as I was chiseling the hole out for all the electronics, as when I used the router it dislocated my hand and nearly took off my fingers . and it was honestly a lot easier to chisel than to router, but all the nobs were too big on the internet so I 3d printed the nobs to fit it.
 
yeah, I had a limited space as I was chiseling the hole out for all the electronics, as when I used the router it dislocated my hand and nearly took off my fingers . and it was honestly a lot easier to chisel than to router, but all the nobs were too big on the internet so I 3d printed the nobs to fit it.

Almost didn't want to like that post... sorry it was so rough!
 
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Just picked this beauty up today! First ever brand new bass, and this will nicely compliment the Stingray 5.

Cole Clark Long Lady 5, built using sustainable Australian tonewoods. Queensland maple 3 piece neck, Bunya wings, Figured Queensland Maple Silkwood Cap, river sheoak fretboard, blackwood headstock. Aguilar OBP3 preamp and pickups.

Neck is sooo easy to play!
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I'm a classic guy and I took a Classic Vibe 60s Jazz Bass from Squier, and made it... Unclassic. Or did I? Switched the pickguard for a purple pearled one and made my own brass stripe bridge pickup cavity shielding! I love it so much, it plays at perfection and I don't regret any cent spent to get her! :D

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yeah, I had a limited space as I was chiseling the hole out for all the electronics, as when I used the router it dislocated my hand and nearly took off my fingers . and it was honestly a lot easier to chisel than to router, but all the nobs were too big on the internet so I 3d printed the nobs to fit it.

Glad you still have your digits - a hand router is one of the most dangerous shop tools unless all precautions are taken. (as in, no short-cuts) I'll guess you attempted to rout w/o a guide on the already cut out body. Making/cutting guides and making sure they are stably clamped/adhered on the surface being routed when routing is key. Next time draw your outlines of the body and rout the blank before cutting it out for optimal router surface. (so it's not dangling off an edge) Once set-up, make shallow passages to get to the required depth - don't attempt to rout the whole depth at once. Also never lift it from the guide until it is fully off and always unplug it before changing bits. Do all the needful and a router is a very useful shop tool.
 
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