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The Official Warwick Club (Part 3)

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#701
kho said:
Hey Rebelscum... Nice work on restoring it! It would be cool to see the true "before" pictures. Definitely let us know how it plays, and post more pics when it's complete! Are you going to try and fix the dent in the fretboard?

Joining is never a problem... PM Daywalker for a number.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the kind words. I picked up some Howard's Feed-N-Wax
during my lunch break. Tonight, I will use some of this and see how much better the wood looks. There is a local shop called Mark's Fret Shop, and the work he does looks to be amazing. I have sent him the pics of the Van Damage on the fretboard.

I will certainly post more pics as this is a very exciting project for me. This came with the JAN that appears to be plastic. Would it be better to order a JAN II or III or stay with what came with it? :confused:
 
#702
rebelscum said:
Thanks for the kind words. I picked up some Howard's Feed-N-Wax
during my lunch break. Tonight, I will use some of this and see how much better the wood looks. There is a local shop called Mike's Fret Shop, and the work he does looks to be amazing. I have sent him the pics of the Van Damage on the fretboard.

I will certainly post more pics as this is a very exciting project for me. This came with the JAN that appears to be plastic. Would it be better to order a JAN II or III or stay with what came with it? :confused:
Click to expand...

Good call on the Howard Feed n' Wax... that's what I use too, and it does a pretty good job.

All the JAN's are kind of plastic-y. They are a composite material called Wilferite I believe. If you need to get a new one, get the JAN III... The JAN II's are held in by side clips that can break pretty easily sometimes. It broke really easy on my 5 string Stage I, but they never broke on either of my 4 strings or the six stringer, though I did end up upgrading them all to the JAN III anyway.

Some people also like the brass JAN I (which you can still order), and apparently I've read on the Warwick forum that there's potentially going to be a brass JAN III, though I don't know if that's true or not.
 
#703
kho said:
Good call on the Howard Feed n' Wax... that's what I use too, and it does a pretty good job.

All the JAN's are kind of plastic-y. They are a composite material called Wilferite I believe. If you need to get a new one, get the JAN III... The JAN II's are held in by side clips that can break pretty easily sometimes. It broke really easy on my 5 string Stage I, but they never broke on either of my 4 strings or the six stringer, though I did end up upgrading them all to the JAN III anyway.

Some people also like the brass JAN I (which you can still order), and apparently I've read on the Warwick forum that there's potentially going to be a brass JAN III, though I don't know if that's true or not.
Click to expand...

I also like the IDEA of having the Brass JAN 1. It would match the frets nicely (Or at least in my mind).
Does the Corvette STD take the 38.5 mm, 40.00 mm or 44.00 mm? I could wait til I get home to measure but very tempted to order it right now!
 
#704
Get the JAN 3 Rebelscum.
Like Kho said,the JAN 2 is prone to breaking it's retainer tabs,but will still work absolutely fine.
Just be careful with the JAN 3 during string changes.It has a pin & hole design & it falls off when there's no strings to hold it in place.
The Warwick website has a how to guide for changing over to the JAN3.It's very easy.All you need is a mallet,or hammer & a tube of superglue.
The JAN 1,the brass one costs alot more,coz it's hand machined brass.
The JAN 2 is wilferite & the JAN 3 is tedur.
 
#705
humpy thumb said:
Get the JAN 3 Rebelscum.
Like Kho said,the JAN 2 is prone to breaking it's retainer tabs,but will still work absolutely fine.
Just be careful with the JAN 3 during string changes.It has a pin & hole design & it falls off when there's no strings to hold it in place.
The Warwick website has a how to guide for changing over to the JAN3.It's very easy.All you need is a mallet,or hammer & a tube of superglue.
The JAN 1,the brass one costs alot more,coz it's hand machined brass.
The JAN 2 is wilferite & the JAN 3 is tedur.
Click to expand...

Thanks so much for this info. I decided that I want the Brass JAN 1 because:

1. It's sexy
2. It does not have any of the retainer issues.

I went to order it last night, but Warwick does not ship to the US? :confused:
 
#706
It's pretty easy to change over as HumpyThumb said. The only issue I ran into is I had to file edge of the truss rod cover slightly since the JAN III was a little wider than the JAN II.
 
#709
Those are AMAZING 'Wicks. Thanks for posting the pics again.
I don't have to go back to see them now. :D

However ... Makes this next post look like "finger poo" to quote
a fellow TBer, just wish I could remember who it was for the credit
and making me laugh.

I used the wax and I am very happy with the results.

Back of the bass:

100_0906.jpg
[/IMG]

Top:

100_0917.jpg
[/IMG]

Side Profile:

100_0920.jpg
[/IMG]

Mark from Mark's Fret Shop has agreed to work on her.
He's going to fix the fret board, chip on the top of the headstock and set her up with my new DR Hi Beams.

I discovered that I have what I think is the JAN II, and may stay with it for now since Mark's estimate is pricey, and will most likely end up being more in the end. I'm digging this Gal.

Can't wait to actually hear her voice.

P.S - Pardon my dust :eek:
 
#710
rebelscum said:
Thanks so much for this info. I decided that I want the Brass JAN 1 because:

1. It's sexy
2. It does not have any of the retainer issues.

I went to order it last night, but Warwick does not ship to the US? :confused:
Click to expand...

That's no worries at all mate.
The JAN may not be all high techy & made outta specially self designed fancy pants materials,but it still out nuts every other nut on the market.
You'll need to either dowel & drill the small holes for the truss rod cover,or,as some of the guys have mentioned above,file a small strip of the truss rod cover's surround.
Any Warwick dealer can get ya parts,or Rocket Music in Virginia probably has them in stock.The owner,Greg Bump is a sponsoring talkbass member.Greg's a realy cool bloke.
Another way is to get it direct from Hanser Music,USA's Warwick distributor.
Hanser Music Group
3015 Kustom Drive
Hebron, KY 41048
USA

Cheers man.
For Parts :
Mark Sharp (877) 363-6444
[email protected]
 
#711
Thanks a TON Humpy!!! I was about to call it quits looking for it.
The JAN II that it came with works just fine, but really want the
brass JAN. I'm trying to find a dang truss rod tool now as this poor girl is bowed out like crazy. I will post pics when Mark is done fixing
the fretboard.
 
#713
rebelscum said:
Thanks a TON Humpy!!! I was about to call it quits looking for it.
The JAN II that it came with works just fine, but really want the
brass JAN. I'm trying to find a dang truss rod tool now as this poor girl is bowed out like crazy. I will post pics when Mark is done fixing
the fretboard.
Click to expand...

No worries mate.Always happy to help out.
You can use a 5 mm allen key to adjust your truss rod,& it's probably going to be cheaper too.
Just make cure the allen key is metris,& not an imperial equivalent.:)
Rock on brother.
 
#714
Just checking on anything Warwick-unique for setup.....does the truss rod rule righty-tighty, lefty loosey apply to warwicks/corvettes?

Done the tighty thing quite a bit and am not able to get a back bow....just to almost flat. Nervous about continuing to tighten. In other words, I can't get to fret 1 buzzing.

Anyway to gage how far to go?
 
#716
Lowendfriend: Have you left it overnight after adjusting it? Some necks keep moving (while they overcome internal stresses and friction) for a day or rarely a week after you adjusted them.

Also, ... if you WANT fret one to buzz you can do it more easily/safely by lowering the nut than by overtightening the neck.

A typical Warwick spec is an action of 1mm (fret 1), 2.4mm (fret 12), 2mm (fret 24). That's low enough for most of us. I'd be a bit nervous trying to get lower.
 
#717
David1234 said:
Lowendfriend: Have you left it overnight after adjusting it? Some necks keep moving (while they overcome internal stresses and friction) for a day or rarely a week after you adjusted them.

Also, ... if you WANT fret one to buzz you can do it more easily/safely by lowering the nut than by overtightening the neck.

A typical Warwick spec is an action of 1mm (fret 1), 2.4mm (fret 12), 2mm (fret 24). That's low enough for most of us. I'd be a bit nervous trying to get lower.
Click to expand...

Yes I have been turning an 1/8th every few days or so and then letting it sit.

The neck is pretty damn flat, but I'm actually looking for the slightest reverse bow to help with action setup. My bridge saddles are almost as low as they can go, so I'm not going to accomplish this with the bridge.

Almost seems like a neck shim is in order.

Of course, I don't want fret 1 to buzz, but I don't want the nut contributing to the action height any more than it has to. Got the JAN III tweaked as low as it can go w/o buzzing.

It just may be that this neck was left bowed in the store for way long and will take awhile to come around.

I have it essentially flat now. Just can't muster the courage to keep cranking to a little back bow.

That new Jerzy Drozd Ultimate guide certainly has helped me so far, particularly with intonation.
 
#718
"Finger poo" is definitely not the case here! That grain on your 'vette looks fantastic. Have you plugged her in yet, or are you going to wait until after Mark sets her up?



rebelscum said:
Those are AMAZING 'Wicks. Thanks for posting the pics again.
I don't have to go back to see them now. :D

However ... Makes this next post look like "finger poo" to quote
a fellow TBer, just wish I could remember who it was for the credit
and making me laugh.

I used the wax and I am very happy with the results.

Back of the bass:

100_0906.jpg
[/IMG]

Top:

100_0917.jpg
[/IMG]

Side Profile:

100_0920.jpg
[/IMG]

Mark from Mark's Fret Shop has agreed to work on her.
He's going to fix the fret board, chip on the top of the headstock and set her up with my new DR Hi Beams.

I discovered that I have what I think is the JAN II, and may stay with it for now since Mark's estimate is pricey, and will most likely end up being more in the end. I'm digging this Gal.

Can't wait to actually hear her voice.

P.S - Pardon my dust :eek:
Click to expand...
 
#719
*insertcoolname said:
Just got me a thumb 4 BO, not looking for a membership but wanted to know what my fellow 'wick players have experienced with other brands of pickups and preamps. Anyone installed a set of EMG's or Barts? Swapped out preamps? How'd it end up?
Click to expand...

I think there are a number of people on here with EMG's in their 'Wicks. I've never used them, but they do sound great. Some others have put in Aguilar OBP-3 preamp into their 'Wicks with very good results.

In one of my 'vettes I have a DarkStar pickup paired with a Nordstrand pickup, both going to an ACG-02 (Filter-based) preamp. That sounds pretty good, though I'm about to replace the DS pickup with a Nordstrand MM pickup.

The other 'Vette I have (the fretless) has Bartolini pickups with a Bartolini preamp, which sound *really* good on that bass (that's a pretty subjective statement, but it's definitely got the sound I wanted out of it).

I've also tried an Audere preamp and that works very well in a 'Wick.
 
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