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The official WARWICK club thread!

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Crappy pictures of my mint 1997 Fortress Masterman 4. I will post better pics when my good camera isn't dead.

I though I would never buy anything but MM or Fender. This bass is just amazing. It is hard to see the detail on the maple but it is a real nice piece of wood!

Hopefully this baby makes the cut and is club-worthy!:hyper:

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Not sure why I haven't joined up yet... :confused:

I have a SSII 5 string, which is currently at the shop having barts and an aguilar 18v preamp installed. I also have my main go-to bass, which is a Corvette Standard 5. It sounds absolutely killer with the stock p'ups and preamp to me. A few months back I had my friendly neighborhood luthier put a horn extension on the upper horn, a good mod for bubinga Corvettes IMO. It's basically a hollow piece of metal pipe with a straplock attached to the end, anchored by a giant woodscrew. We ended up putting black pipe shrink tubing on the outside for aesthetics. It makes the balance absolutely perfect and its even more of a joy to play now! I will try to post some better pics of both basses later next week.

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Well it's been about 4 weeks since I bought my bass. I've been using a Book/DVD/& CD package called "Absolute Beginners Bass Guitar", and practicing on average 1.5 hours/day. I'm a little passed half way in the book. Currently working on "Minor arpeggios". I'm quite pleased with my progress, although, I don't have any idea how far I am from the point where I can consider my self a bass player. :hmm:

I was reading another thread, and someone suggested to a new Warwick owner that he wax his bass, install new strings and have it adjusted.

According to the manual included with my bass, it doesn't need to be waxed (swamp ash body), but how do I go about selecting replacement strings and deciding whether or not it needs to be adjusted?

Concerning fret board oil... Any recomendations? Does one oil with the strings in place?

What about the neck, does it require oiling?

Thanks!

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Well it's been about 4 weeks since I bought my bass. I've been using a Book/DVD/& CD package called "Absolute Beginners Bass Guitar", and practicing on average 1.5 hours/day. I'm a little passed half way in the book. Currently working on "Minor arpeggios". I'm quite pleased with my progress, although, I don't have any idea how far I am from the point where I can consider my self a bass player. :hmm:

being a bass player is also a state of mind. IMHO
 
Well it's been about 4 weeks since I bought my bass. I've been using a Book/DVD/& CD package called "Absolute Beginners Bass Guitar", and practicing on average 1.5 hours/day. I'm a little passed half way in the book. Currently working on "Minor arpeggios". I'm quite pleased with my progress, although, I don't have any idea how far I am from the point where I can consider my self a bass player. :hmm:

You have a bass, you play it, you are a bass player :)

You don't need to wax oil finishes. The wood is sealed. Only natural, waxed finishes (Corvettes / Streamers in Natural finish, Thumbs, ...). As for the neck, it should not be necessary. And for a setup, as I said before imho pickups seem a bit high, and the original Warwick EMP strings have a pretty rough feeling, but I like their sound. If you have no issues with the strings, stick to them. I use DR HI-Beams, they are slicker.

For oiling the fretboard, Like the neck, it's not really a requisite. After maybe a year, to clean up the gunk off the fretboard.
 
I was reading another thread, and someone suggested to a new Warwick owner that he wax his bass, install new strings and have it adjusted.

According to the manual included with my bass, it doesn't need to be waxed (swamp ash body), but how do I go about selecting replacement strings and deciding whether or not it needs to be adjusted?


What about the neck, does it require oiling?

You're a bass player when you say you are..so welcome!! Nice lookin' Wick , btw. To answer your question, I usually have a new bass set up (or adjusted) to my preferences when I buy a new one or trade up. A lot of times changes in temp. and humidy , etc from the bass's origin to where you purchase it make a neck adjustment (ie, truss rod adjustment) necessary.
Also, the action is usually set pretty high on instruments in the store. By getting it set up by a competent luthier, it has the potential to be more comfy to play, though its probably not 100% necessary. I would wax the back of the neck every few weeks with warwick wax (if its like mine and natural) and put oil on the fretboard whenever you change strings, which I would do one string at a time to keep tension on the neck consistent. For the fretboard I use Dr Ducks Axe Wax (its really more oily than "waxy" so its odd they call it that)
 
You have a bass, you play it, you are a bass player :)

You don't need to wax oil finishes. The wood is sealed. Only natural, waxed finishes (Corvettes / Streamers in Natural finish, Thumbs, ...). As for the neck, it should not be necessary. And for a setup, as I said before imho pickups seem a bit high, and the original Warwick EMP strings have a pretty rough feeling, but I like their sound. If you have no issues with the strings, stick to them. I use DR HI-Beams, they are slicker.

For oiling the fretboard, Like the neck, it's not really a requisite. After maybe a year, to clean up the gunk off the fretboard.

SurrenderMonkey: Thanks for your suggestions. I measured the height of the strings at both the neck pickup and at the bridge pickup. The distance between the face of the pickup and the bottom side of the string is approx. 3.5 - 4mm at the neck pickup. The distance between the strings and the bridge pickup is approx. 2 - 2.5mm.

The pickups don't show any signs of wear, but then again I'm just starting out, so the strings don't get a whole lot of action. :)
 
You're a bass player when you say you are..so welcome!! Nice lookin' Wick , btw. To answer your question, I usually have a new bass set up (or adjusted) to my preferences when I buy a new one or trade up. A lot of times changes in temp. and humidy , etc from the bass's origin to where you purchase it make a neck adjustment (ie, truss rod adjustment) necessary.
Also, the action is usually set pretty high on instruments in the store. By getting it set up by a competent luthier, it has the potential to be more comfy to play, though its probably not 100% necessary. I would wax the back of the neck every few weeks with warwick wax (if its like mine and natural) and put oil on the fretboard whenever you change strings, which I would do one string at a time to keep tension on the neck consistent. For the fretboard I use Dr Ducks Axe Wax (its really more oily than "waxy" so its odd they call it that)

permadave: Thanks. I probably selected this bass more for the way its looked more than anything. I may take it back to the dealer to get an assessment of current settings (neck, pickup height, bridge adjustments etc). The bass feels fine to me, but since I really can't play, I cannot tell if the setup could be improved. I suppose it's an individual thing.

Special thanks for the suggestion to replace the strings, 1 string at a time. It seems to make sense to me.
 
My fretless Fortress and my Streamer LX5. Both have maple bodies and bolt on necks. The Fortress is wenge with an ebony fingerboard and the Streamer is a five piece (maple and...?) with a wenge fingerboard.

I know these are the tiniest pictures ever...I misjudged when I resized them for online use. Oops. Enjoy. More to follow.
 

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