The Pedulla Club!

[Lownote38]

I just purchased an MVP 5 and it's been through some things. It's been stripped, but by the serial number, I can tell it's a 1988. The price was REALLY good, so even if this thing needs to be totally rebuilt, it's worth it. I love a good project and this thing deserves to be saved. I'm not totally sure what I'm in for, but if it's not able to be saved, I have the option of returning it.
Anyway, I have a few questions for the Pedulla crew here...
1. What does the LED do? I can't find any info on it. This bass has the LED, but no mini toggle. I can't find another one like it!
2. Did all Pedullas in the 80s use the same sort of square ended truss rod? This one doesn't look like that, but doesn't look like it's been replaced either. It's a weird one!
3. I'm assuming it was a solid color because there's no flame or figuring in the wood. What colors would be appropriate? White looks cool from what I've seen so far.

Thanks!

Update! The truss rod looks like a single action Gibson style. I found a few Series II Pedulla basses with that sort of set up, but no MVPs. This is a weird bass! Pics coming when I receive it.

 

[Tomppp]

I just purchased an MVP 5 and it's been through some things. It's been stripped, but by the serial number, I can tell it's a 1988. The price was REALLY good, so even if this thing needs to be totally rebuilt, it's worth it. I love a good project and this thing deserves to be saved. I'm not totally sure what I'm in for, but if it's not able to be saved, I have the option of returning it.
Anyway, I have a few questions for the Pedulla crew here...
1. What does the LED do? I can't find any info on it. This bass has the LED, but no mini toggle. I can't find another one like it!
2. Did all Pedullas in the 80s use the same sort of square ended truss rod? This one doesn't look like that, but doesn't look like it's been replaced either. It's a weird one!
3. I'm assuming it was a solid color because there's no flame or figuring in the wood. What colors would be appropriate? White looks cool from what I've seen so far.

Thanks!

Update! The truss rod looks like a single action Gibson style. I found a few Series II Pedulla basses with that sort of set up, but no MVPs. This is a weird bass! Pics coming when I receive it.

In 1988, Pedulla used the Gibson style single action. Don't use the Gibson tool though. My nut eventually stripped out and I had to use a regular brass 5/16" nut. The replacement Gibson nut is the wrong thread. I'm not sure what the LED does without a switch accompanying it. In earlier models, the switch would be on/off for the preamp. The bass is definitely refinished. You will need a waterslide logo, if you redo it. Waterslides were in gold, black and light grey. There was no rhyme or reason to that color. I have crisp artwork if you would like. Rothko and Frost in the UK did mine, since they were the only ones at the time that would do gold. This is a color chart from 2006 (solids at the bottom. He left off white, but there were certainly whites produced: M.V. Pedulla Guitars, Inc.. BTW, that bass has one replacement tuner. Early Schallers were 12mm. The Gotoh on it might have been drilled to 14mm. Best with it!! Post before and after pics!!

 

[Lownote38]

In 1988, Pedulla used the Gibson style single action. Don't use the Gibson tool though. My nut eventually stripped out and I had to use a regular brass 5/16" nut. The replacement Gibson nut is the wrong thread. I'm not sure what the LED does without a switch accompanying it. In earlier models, the switch would be on/off for the preamp. The bass is definitely refinished. You will need a waterslide logo, if you redo it. Waterslides were in gold, black and light grey. There was no rhyme or reason to that color. I have crisp artwork if you would like. Rothko and Frost in the UK did mine, since they were the only ones at the time that would do gold. This is a color chart from 2006 (solids at the bottom. He left off white, but there were certainly whites produced: M.V. Pedulla Guitars, Inc.. BTW, that bass has one replacement tuner. Early Schallers were 12mm. The Gotoh on it might have been drilled to 14mm. Best with it!! Post before and after pics!!

Wow! Thank you! You know exactly which bass I purchased. I made an offer that I thought was too low, and the seller accepted! I've always wanted an MVP 5, so this will hopefully satisfy a really old dream!
I ordered 2 black waterslide repro decals. I might be happy with it natural and keep it that way. I'm not sure yet. There are plenty of options for refinishing here in Nashville. I need to have it in my hands first.
I know about the replaced tuner, and have an older Schaller on the way. I'll fix it if the hole has been enlarged.
Maybe the volume control has a push/pull for active/passive and that activates the LED? I know the stacked knob is high/low, but I don't know what the middle knob does. Hopefully, the preamp is still working.
My biggest worry is the neck, though. I'm hoping it isn't twisted or screwed up in some way.
What size socket is the truss rod nut? I have a small socket wrench with a long extension for these situations.
Thanks again for all the info!

 

[Tomppp]

Wow! Thank you! You know exactly which bass I purchased. I made an offer that I thought was too low, and the seller accepted! I've always wanted an MVP 5, so this will hopefully satisfy a really old dream!
I ordered 2 black waterslide repro decals. I might be happy with it natural and keep it that way. I'm not sure yet. There are plenty of options for refinishing here in Nashville. I need to have it in my hands first.
I know about the replaced tuner, and have an older Schaller on the way. I'll fix it if the hole has been enlarged.
Maybe the volume control has a push/pull for active/passive and that activates the LED? I know the stacked knob is high/low, but I don't know what the middle knob does. Hopefully, the preamp is still working.
My biggest worry is the neck, though. I'm hoping it isn't twisted or screwed up in some way.
What size socket is the truss rod nut? I have a small socket wrench with a long extension for these situations.
Thanks again for all the info!

I don't recall the socket size, but it's slightly smaller than the Gibson. The replacement Home Depot nut is 5/16", but that's a bit bigger. Pedulla never used a pull knob, but there are plenty of Bartolini and other retrofits. My '89 MVP has a retrofit Bartolini pull, but no LED. What did you get it for? I thought about offering $1500, but I don't need another project bass.

 

[Lownote38]

I don't recall the socket size, but it's slightly smaller than the Gibson. The replacement Home Depot nut is 5/16", but that's a bit bigger. Pedulla never used a pull knob, but there are plenty of Bartolini and other retrofits. My '89 MVP has a retrofit Bartolini pull, but no LED. What did you get it for? I thought about offering $1500, but I don't need another project bass.

I got it for $1600. If it's playable as is, I feel like that's a good deal.
I'm really curious about the controls now, as well as that light! The picture of the inside wiring looks like it's original, but I won't know until I have it (Tuesday). If the preamp in there is alright, I would prefer a blend knob rather than the toggle. That's easy enough to do. I also have more Pedulla-ish black aluminum knobs coming for it.
Thanks again for the link to the old color chart. I think white or the candy blue would be nice for it. I've never seen a clear truss rod cover on a Pedulla either! It's the right size and shape, though. This thing has some strange details! I wish I knew the history on it.

 

[Murivan]

Stupid question maybe, but I'm from the Netherlands so most of what I see here in shops is metric: does anyone know where I can get the tiny bridge saddle allen screws (in black) for a 90s Pedulla bridge? The previous owner tried metric allen keys and has worn them out.

What bridge do you have? Can you post a pic? If the key that you need is the imperial 0.050", you should be able to replace it with a metric 1.3mm.
All the manufacturers that I have ever been able to inspect build the 1.3mm as 1.27mm.

 

[Lownote38]

I don't recall the socket size, but it's slightly smaller than the Gibson. The replacement Home Depot nut is 5/16", but that's a bit bigger. Pedulla never used a pull knob, but there are plenty of Bartolini and other retrofits. My '89 MVP has a retrofit Bartolini pull, but no LED. What did you get it for? I thought about offering $1500, but I don't need another project bass.

I'm really starting to think the supposed light isn't an LED, but rather a mini toggle that broke or fell into the control cavity. I guess I'll find out Tuesday!

 

[Pedullist]

What bridge do you have? Can you post a pic? If the key that you need is the imperial 0.050", you should be able to replace it with a metric 1.3mm.
All the manufacturers that I have ever been able to inspect build the 1.3mm as 1.27mm.

I'd like to keep it imperial, because I don't want to make the same mistake as the previous owner (all of my other Pedulla's are all original so I'm using US allen keys for those)

 

[Murivan]

I'd like to keep it imperial, because I don't want to make the same mistake as the previous owner (all of my other Pedulla's are all original so I'm using US allen keys for those)

I am not familiar with that bridge, but the usual suspects are 0.050", 1/16", and 5/64".
If it's 1/16" someone might have used the wrong metric one (1.5mm).

 

[D.A.R.K.]

For Buzz owners- yes another sting query- I have tried a bunch, but of course the bass reacts best so far with D'addario nickel rounds in gages as close to the original factory strings as they make (go figure). I am thinking of trying ground wounds, (to get a bit less noise and calmer B string) but they are expensive enough to warrant asking for opinions here. Thoughts? What are your current favorite strings for a Pentabuzz? Michaels formula is so specific I'm even contemplating taper core...

 

[BargeOn]

For Buzz owners- yes another sting query- I have tried a bunch, but of course the bass reacts best so far with D'addario nickel rounds in gages as close to the original factory strings as they make (go figure). I am thinking of trying ground wounds, (to get a bit less noise and calmer B string) but they are expensive enough to warrant asking for opinions here. Thoughts? What are your current favorite strings for a Pentabuzz? Michaels formula is so specific I'm even contemplating taper core...

I'm with you on the D'Addarios. I tried the famous GHS pressure wounds and couldn't stand them. It was a while ago. What I remember was not liking the tension or feel and the lack of definition. IMO and YMMV of course. Tried so many others I can't remember and always come back to the EXLs, the light guage 220s now.
The only alternatives I've found are the TI jazz rounds. The tension is low, the guage light and the winding is noticably finer except on the B, so there is less noise and less wear on the board. Fortunately I have 2 Buzzs and the TIs are staying on no.2. But do a little reading because the cummunity is pretty divided on them.

 

[D.A.R.K.]

I'm with you on the D'Addarios. I tried the famous GHS pressure wounds and couldn't stand them. It was a while ago. What I remember was not liking the tension or feel and the lack of definition. IMO and YMMV of course. Tried so many others I can't remember and always come back to the EXLs, the light guage 220s now.
The only alternatives I've found are the TI jazz rounds. The tension is low, the guage light and the winding is noticably finer except on the B, so there is less noise and less wear on the board. Fortunately I have 2 Buzzs and the TIs are staying on no.2. But do a little reading because the cummunity is pretty divided on them.

Have you tried the D'addario ground wound nickels?

 

[BargeOn]

Have you tried the D'addario ground wound nickels?

Not that I remember I went through a bunch but havent stepped away from the EXLs or TIs in quite a while.

 

[Flaked Beans]

For Buzz owners- yes another sting query- I have tried a bunch, but of course the bass reacts best so far with D'addario nickel rounds in gages as close to the original factory strings as they make (go figure). I am thinking of trying ground wounds, (to get a bit less noise and calmer B string) but they are expensive enough to warrant asking for opinions here. Thoughts? What are your current favorite strings for a Pentabuzz? Michaels formula is so specific I'm even contemplating taper core...

Pics? of your bass?

 

[D.A.R.K.]

Pics? of your bass?

The last page, post 4,655 and the seller posted a bunch previous

 

[Pedullist]

I have a (quite expensive) set of Optima Golds on my Buzz, after years of Pedulla nickels (still have package or two of them though). It looks snazzy with the gold hardware, but they sound and feel great (even after two years). Tapered B string.

The gold coating is even easier on the fingerboard than nickels.

 

[Pedullist]

Not, 'but they sound great'.....AAAAAAAAAAND they sound great. Terrific even.

 

[D.A.R.K.]

Thought i’d report back on my string search. Received a set of D’addario nickel ground wound yesterday, definitely the best set I have tried so far. It really cut out a lot of the noise and hash, retained the harmonics and I was able to drop the action significantly. These are not quite as stiff as flats, but close. These are 45, 65, 80, 100, 130. Unlike the D’addario nickel round wounds which at super light gages were floppy and undefined, I think I can get away with 40, 60, 80, 100, 125. The main thing to note is the low B went from a bit blurry to defined and concise, a complete 180. Also having a much easier time getting my intonation together with these. This instrument without a doubt is the most sensitive to string type out of anything I have owned. Obligatory clip with the new strings, morning warm up/ wank, but shows harmonics are really present when desired and the low B is defined. Phone audio, sorry.
Also- wondering how people feel about taper core, and if it helps at all? In the past when this design were all the rage (late 80's- early 90's), I used them a bit but recall having some off-putting overtones with the instruments I used them on. Would love to hear any thoughts on direct comparison experiences. I think I'm almost there, a few hundred bucks in strings later....

 

[Rich-Cincy Kid]

Thought i’d report back on my string search. Received a set of D’addario nickel ground wound yesterday, definitely the best set I have tried so far. It really cut out a lot of the noise and hash, retained the harmonics and I was able to drop the action significantly. These are not quite as stiff as flats, but close. These are 45, 65, 80, 100, 130. Unlike the D’addario nickel round wounds which at super light gages were floppy and undefined, I think I can get away with 40, 60, 80, 100, 125. The main thing to note is the low B went from a bit blurry to defined and concise, a complete 180. Also having a much easier time getting my intonation together with these. This instrument without a doubt is the most sensitive to string type out of anything I have owned. Obligatory clip with the new strings, morning warm up/ wank, but shows harmonics are really present when desired and the low B is defined. Phone audio, sorry.
Also- wondering how people feel about taper core, and if it helps at all? In the past when this design were all the rage (late 80's- early 90's), I used them a bit but recall having some off-putting overtones with the instruments I used them on. Would love to hear any thoughts on direct comparison experiences. I think I'm almost there, a few hundred bucks in strings later....

Hey, thanks for your information. I will definitely try these on my Pedulla!

 

[BargeOn]

Thought i’d report back on my string search. Received a set of D’addario nickel ground wound yesterday, definitely the best set I have tried so far. It really cut out a lot of the noise and hash, retained the harmonics and I was able to drop the action significantly. These are not quite as stiff as flats, but close. These are 45, 65, 80, 100, 130. Unlike the D’addario nickel round wounds which at super light gages were floppy and undefined, I think I can get away with 40, 60, 80, 100, 125. The main thing to note is the low B went from a bit blurry to defined and concise, a complete 180. Also having a much easier time getting my intonation together with these. This instrument without a doubt is the most sensitive to string type out of anything I have owned. Obligatory clip with the new strings, morning warm up/ wank, but shows harmonics are really present when desired and the low B is defined. Phone audio, sorry.
Also- wondering how people feel about taper core, and if it helps at all? In the past when this design were all the rage (late 80's- early 90's), I used them a bit but recall having some off-putting overtones with the instruments I used them on. Would love to hear any thoughts on direct comparison experiences. I think I'm almost there, a few hundred bucks in strings later....

Sounds real good.
Do you know what the tension is on the B? D'addario usually puts it on the package.