• TalkBass has been independent since 1998. Add your voice.
    Create a free account to reply to discussions, view embedded media, and browse with fewer display ads.
    Join free Log in
    Want zero display ads or expanded classifieds tools? Compare plans.

The Rickenbacker Club Part Five

Status
Not open for further replies.
#185
And it's finally here :)

She's a beauty, the tone is amazing and from a quick test I couldn't find any problems or dead spots. The neck needs some adjusting though, it has a noticeable relief. Just got to check if I have a 1/4" driver anywhere, you merkins and your silly inch-based tools :)
 

Attachments

  • rick4003.JPG
    rick4003.JPG
    129.2 KB · Views: 126
  • rick4003_trc.JPG
    rick4003_trc.JPG
    112.3 KB · Views: 89
#188
sorry, didn't mean to offend. Used to live in the uk and hang around in uk forums, a lot of us ex-pats use that term about themselves. A merkin = american with the accent. Had no idea what it was. The more you know etc. I'll have to stop using that now :)

About the tool, I figure a 7mm driver should work but I'll get a 1/4" one anyway, they are sold in stores since a lot of us/uk machines and equipment need those.

Cheers
 
#189
spexi said:
sorry, didn't mean to offend. Used to live in the uk and hang around in uk forums, a lot of us ex-pats use that term about themselves. A merkin = american with the accent. Had no idea what it was. The more you know etc. I'll have to stop using that now :)

About the tool, I figure a 7mm driver should work but I'll get a 1/4" one anyway, they are sold in stores since a lot of us/uk machines and equipment need those.

Cheers
Click to expand...

Just an FYI, it may be a challenge to get the nut driver over the truss rod nuts. There is little to no clearance between the headstock and the nut.

I had to chisel away a small bit of paint and wood to get over the nuts, and even then, it is a very tight fit. I purchased an Xcelite thin wall nut driver that was mentioned on TB, and it helped, but I still had to do some work to get the driver fit.

Brian
 
#190
Is there still the risk of tail lift with the newer (2010+) 4003's? I am running chromes (45-100's) and will be trying out TI flats shortly, but if i stay with chromes, I was just wondering if i should be concerned about tail lift.

Thanks in advance!
 
#192
Jaymi said:
tail lift is ALWAYS a concern...
Click to expand...

Thanks for the quick reply!

I have see the fix where 2 additional screws are placed on the top of the tail piece, is that something most folks do themselves?


***EDIT
Looks like there are other options too, like filling the route or something... Invalid Link Removed
 
#194
spexi said:
sorry, didn't mean to offend. Used to live in the uk and hang around in uk forums, a lot of us ex-pats use that term about themselves. A merkin = american with the accent. Had no idea what it was. The more you know etc. I'll have to stop using that now :)

About the tool, I figure a 7mm driver should work but I'll get a 1/4" one anyway, they are sold in stores since a lot of us/uk machines and equipment need those.

Cheers
Click to expand...

Actually I'd be worried about using a 7 mm even you can fit it into the cavity and onto the truss nut. 1/4" = 6.35mm. So the difference in size is more than 10% which is loose enough and possibly sloppy enough that it could round the nuts off.

And that slang for Americans? I think there is usually a very soft "i" in it. More like 'MUR-i-can. (Spelling phoenetically)
 
#195
gidbass said:
Is there still the risk of tail lift with the newer (2010+) 4003's? I am running chromes (45-100's) and will be trying out TI flats shortly, but if i stay with chromes, I was just wondering if i should be concerned about tail lift.
Click to expand...

The tailpiece is improved by adding two screws, however I have a 5-bolt (standard) on my 2010 4003 strung BEAD and there is no lift.
 
#197
soundwavewill said:
Would a small 1/4" crescent wrench work for the truss rods? I just put some rotosound flats on mine, and I need to tighten the rods to bring down the action on the strings a bit.
Click to expand...

NO! Please, no....

You run a serious risk of breaking the truss rod if you do this. Which is more work and cost - obtaining the right tool, or replacing the truss rod?

It can't be said too many times: Invalid Link Removed
 
#198
rickdog said:
NO! Please, no....

You run a serious risk of breaking the truss rod if you do this. Which is more work and cost - obtaining the right tool, or replacing the truss rod?

It can't be said too many times: Invalid Link Removed
Click to expand...

Thanks. That's why I wanted to ask first. Got the proper tool and gently adjusted the rods. It plays much better now. However, I noticed something while reading through his instructional write up. Myself not having much experience with Ricks saw that the treble tone has a capacitor bypass activated by pulling up on the treble tone knob. I wanted to check this out when I realized it's on the wrong knob for my bass. I bought it used in great condition, but it turns out that whoever had it did quite a bit of mod work. And me being ocd, I'm gonna have some work on my hands returning it to original. Here's a pic of the reversed knob setup.
453ede67.jpg

Now, this isn't just a knob switch where the bass knob controls the treble. Whoever the previous owner was must have re-wired it as well. I have to say I'm a bit disappointed to learn all of this two months later.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.

Latest posts

Top Bottom
Back