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...haven't heard from him quite for a while!
Check out the RRF, there are some more recommendations.
Jaymi
Pink Bass Man
- Feb 11, 2008
- 6,813
- 490
- Disclosures
- Endorsing Artist: Ampeg , Jaydee, Kalium
Just picked up this 77 4001 from a long time guitarist friend who runs a small vintage shop. A guy came into the shop and traded it in on some vintage stuff from the store. The guy said he bought it new in 77 and played it regularly up till about a year ago. Since my buddy knew I had been looking for a Ricky, he let me know about it to ask if I was interested in grabbing it. Told me it had some issues but was decent and had potential. I jumped on it and since we've been friends for over 40 years, let's just say that I got super "long time buddy" price to low to print deal.
My friend dropped it off on Saturday, so I finally got to see it up close. It has lots of player wear, finish is nicely yellowed, overall I think it has good mojo. There's a few issues (read / see below) with it but I'm fairly sure it's gonna be a nice one one I get done with it. Pencil dated in cavity 11/77. It actually still played pretty good all things considered.
The bass is pretty much all original with just a few issues. Now on to the not so good stuff. The original PG is cracked to bits, it's useless so a new PG is a must. Also has a neck crack running from the nut down the bass side of the neck for about 4 inches or so (see pics). It's not very deep thank goodness and the bass holds concert pitch without issues. The original owner told my buddy he pulled the bass out of the case one night at a gig and noticed it was cracked. He said the bass was about two years old when it happened and he just kept playing it for all these years. He knew he could have sent it in under warranty but never did as he was gigging steady and it was his only bass. There's no movement on the crack, looks like somebody worked some glue into it at one time, and it's smoothed over from years of playing. You can barely feel it, so I don't doubt the owner's story that it cracked many years ago. I don't however believe the owner's story that he pulled it out of the case and found it was cracked. I've seen that type of neck crack in Ric's before and knew it didn't just happen by accident. I knew exactly what caused it.
I could also tell that the nut wasn't original and had been replaced a long time ago too. It's a white plastic nut with a thick wood shim glued under it to get the right height. So when I see the neck crack and the replaced nut, I know I'm pulling that truss rod cover. I want to see just how much some idiot with no clue on how to adjust Ric truss rods has screwed up this bass, and I'm hoping it's not a total loss. Sure enough the rods were screwed in so tight they're jammed into the spacer and the rod nuts are bent down clear to the wood. I can see where the top of one the rods has raised up a bit too. So I have that mental picture of somebody, probably the owner cranking those rods and then hearing that snap sound when the nut blew off and the neck got that crack. While I have the truss rod cover off and the strings off, I see the fretboards loose on the treble side about for about an inch or so. I spread it a bit, get some good glue in there and clamp it overnight.
The fretboard is down nice and tight so today I tackle the rods, nuts, and spacer. After clamping the fretboard so it won't pop off again, and clamping the body to my table, I'm able to get a flat screwdriver under the nuts and bend them up enough the get them off, and yes they were still way too tight. Probably been like that for a long time. Took a small block of wood and drove the rods back in to the neck so I could get the spacer off. Spacer is chewed up a bit and I think I might have to replace it, or at the least get a steel spacer in front of it so the rod nuts don't mash it up more. Anybody know where I can get a replacement aluminum, steel, or brass spacer? The threads on the rods look OK. Tomorrow I'm going to pull the rods out and have a look see. Honestly I think they're going to be OK. If so I'll clean them up, re-wax, and reinstall back into the neck. Pretty much then I have to get the spacer thing taken care of and then adjust it the "correct" way.
The bass needs a major cleanup. I'll bet it hasn't been cleaned for 20 years. Frets will eventually need work, typical roundwound grooving. Looks like still enough fret left to get them crowned. I'm going to string it up with flats when finished. Probably TI Jazz flats. Pots, switch, and jacks need cleaned. Should look decent when I get it finished. I like the fact that it's Mapleglo same as the one I owned back in the 70's.
Well here's the pics. Have a look and let me know what you think? Do I still qualify as a member?
A few more pics can be seen here.
77 Ric 4001 pictures by 60bass - Photobucket
374
I am that guy...welcome aboard...love to see one come back to life after playing!
RIC's boutique section shows they have the spacer in stock and the nut should be the same as the current one used on the 4003, though I think it's slightly wider now.
[Invalid or Expired Link Removed]
Pickguardian is probably your best choice for a new 'guard.
Hope that helps!
You're doing fine so far, keep it up!
Jaymi
Thanks for the number. Big thanks to everyone for the names and links. I'll keep you all posted on my progress. It's a good testament to the build quality of Ric's that even as screwed up as it is, it still played decently.
Keep Low
Thanks for the number. Big thanks to everyone for the names and links. I'll keep you all posted on my progress. It's a good testament to the build quality of Ric's that even as screwed up as it is, it still played decently.
Keep Low
Looks like someone tried to tighten the truss rods incorrectly. That neck crack starting at the fretboard is a dead giveaway.
Thanks to the info and links provided here, I've got a new PG, spacer, and some other misc small parts on order.
Did some google this morning and found a nice page by guitar-tech on removing the truss rods. My removal was a bit more low tech but I got them out without issues. Page here.
Rickenbacker 4001 bass truss rod repair | Flickr - Photo Sharing!
So I now have the rods removed and can decide how best to proceed with them. My rods have similar issues as described in the above link but I think I can clean up the threads and still use them. If not I'll cut the bad threads off and shorten up the non threaded top rods to match and go with that. I like the idea of the steel plate he used in front of the aluminium spacer. Worst case I'll get a local machine shop to make up a set of rods for me but I don't think I'll need to do that.
Here's the photobucket link again for the updated pictures.
77 Ric 4001 pictures by 60bass - Photobucket
While waiting for the parts to get here, I'll do a thorough and badly needed cleaning of the whole bass. I'll post more updates as I go along.
Keep Low
Did some google this morning and found a nice page by guitar-tech on removing the truss rods. My removal was a bit more low tech but I got them out without issues. Page here.
Rickenbacker 4001 bass truss rod repair | Flickr - Photo Sharing!
So I now have the rods removed and can decide how best to proceed with them. My rods have similar issues as described in the above link but I think I can clean up the threads and still use them. If not I'll cut the bad threads off and shorten up the non threaded top rods to match and go with that. I like the idea of the steel plate he used in front of the aluminium spacer. Worst case I'll get a local machine shop to make up a set of rods for me but I don't think I'll need to do that.
Here's the photobucket link again for the updated pictures.
77 Ric 4001 pictures by 60bass - Photobucket
While waiting for the parts to get here, I'll do a thorough and badly needed cleaning of the whole bass. I'll post more updates as I go along.
Keep Low
There are many threads on 4001 truss rod adjusting, but it boils down to this:
#1)- Loosen the rods fully
#2)- Bend the neck into position by hand over a rolled up towel, your knee, whatever, (over bend it a tiny bit until the strings are in contact with the frets)
#3)- Tighten the rods. On the Rick Resource Forum, one of the members has a video showing this.
The reason the neck and fretboard cracked was the previous owner didn't know Rics, and merely tightened the nuts. The neck will not move doing it this way, and the guy kept tightening and tightening until the cows came home, wondering why the neck wasn't moving until everything cracked.
#1)- Loosen the rods fully
#2)- Bend the neck into position by hand over a rolled up towel, your knee, whatever, (over bend it a tiny bit until the strings are in contact with the frets)
#3)- Tighten the rods. On the Rick Resource Forum, one of the members has a video showing this.
The reason the neck and fretboard cracked was the previous owner didn't know Rics, and merely tightened the nuts. The neck will not move doing it this way, and the guy kept tightening and tightening until the cows came home, wondering why the neck wasn't moving until everything cracked.
Your block looks pretty good yet and should work fine. It needs to be up against the wood though. The rods look good too, though the ends need to be straight, just straighten them and chase the threads with a cutter.Thanks to the info and links provided here, I've got a new PG, spacer, and some other misc small parts on order.
Did some google this morning and found a nice page by guitar-tech on removing the truss rods. My removal was a bit more low tech but I got them out without issues. Page here.
Rickenbacker 4001 bass truss rod repair | Flickr - Photo Sharing!
So I now have the rods removed and can decide how best to proceed with them. My rods have similar issues as described in the above link but I think I can clean up the threads and still use them. If not I'll cut the bad threads off and shorten up the non threaded top rods to match and go with that. I like the idea of the steel plate he used in front of the aluminium spacer. Worst case I'll get a local machine shop to make up a set of rods for me but I don't think I'll need to do that.
Here's the photobucket link again for the updated pictures.
77 Ric 4001 pictures by 60bass - Photobucket
While waiting for the parts to get here, I'll do a thorough and badly needed cleaning of the whole bass. I'll post more updates as I go along.
Keep Low
Get yourself some cotton cloth diapers washed in a washer with something like Tide Free but NO fabric softener. The get Meguire's Swirl X swirl remover and go over about a 2" x 2" square area of all the areas of the bass EXCEPT the bare wood areas. Do not get the Swirl X or any polish on the bare wood. Once you've got the whole bass cleaned with the Swirl X, consider getting clear nail polish (Hard as Nails is one choice) and tinting it to match the yellowing of the conversion varnish finish. Use 330 grit sandpaper to LIGHTLY sand the open wood areas to get the dirt off the maple and make it clean. Then lightly layer coats of the tinted nail polish to cover the maple. Sand these smooth using 1000 then 2000 grit paper and wet it with Windex. When your happy with it, then go over the whole bass with Zymol blue car wax. Give it two or three coats. It is water based and will build up and make the birdseye and bubinga fretboard look 3D. Honest.
All this knowledge comes courtesy of Paul W that heinpete spoke of. You will be very pleased with the effert you put into it.
I do not believe the current truss rod block with both fit and work with a 4001, and the current truss nuts are the wrong threads for your rods. I believe the neck crack was caused by over-tightening the rods and then maybe bouncing the bass in it's case. Usually when the board pops, it stays higher up, along the fretboard. But, I also am with you that it happened years ago and was glued and will remain stable as long as you correctly adjust the rods, which sounds like you know how to do.
An old beauty with the original great-sounding pickups. You might want to short out the .0047uF cap running from the toggle switch to the Treble pot for more oomph out of the bridge pickup. If the pickguard you get doesn't fit the holes in the body, send the broken pieces you have to Pickguardian and Tony will make you one that WILL fit.
Enjoy!
Thanks much for the advice. My friend who got me the bass runs a small vintage shop and luckily he already has most of the supplies you suggested. He's got a friend in the finishing business who makes him up tinted laquers and whatnot as needed to redo stuff. He has the thread chasers too. Never used Zymol on a guitar but it's great on cars.
The only reason he didn't already fix / and semi-restore it was that he never planned on hanging it for resale because he knew I'd been looking for a super cheap deal on a Ric. He brought it up for me and when I said I wanted it, I offered to strip and clean it and then bring everything back to him over a weekend so we can finish it up.
For sure that crack was caused by someone who didn't understand how to adjust a Ric. It's a shame that a nice bass like a Ric can be easily ruined by some moron. I mean if you don't know at the least give Ric support a call. Way back when we had no internet for that stuff, but we did have landlines. The original owner said he just took it out of the case and it was cracked. Maybe he or someone else did adjust it and it was OK at first but then got dropped in the case. Probably never know.
I'm hoping the new spacer block works. If not I'll use the old one. Worst case, my neighbor is an aircraft mechanic and knows a machinist who could make me anything I need.
EDIT Just wanted to add that I'm planning on adding that .0047uF cap to a push/pull pot. Did that way back when to the Mapleglo that I owned in the 70's. I used a small toggle then but I want to maintain the stock look this time.
Keep Low
Hey guys!
Earlier this afternoon in Paris i had the opportunity to play a 1976 4001 Mapleglo, and the thing sounded awesome! It was in a really good shape considering it's age, it looked almost brand-new. It felt really good, and it was the first time i could play a 4 string without missing my low B.
Just one thing, the bridge pickup was a bartolini and the shop was asking 2900 (4000$) for it. Well i might be wrong but i don't think there are a lot of '76 4001 as good looking and sounding as this one, but for me it's really too much, especially without the original bridge pickup (IMO).
So i'll do my best to get either a 4001 or a 4003 as soon as possible. Wish me luck!
Earlier this afternoon in Paris i had the opportunity to play a 1976 4001 Mapleglo, and the thing sounded awesome! It was in a really good shape considering it's age, it looked almost brand-new. It felt really good, and it was the first time i could play a 4 string without missing my low B.
Just one thing, the bridge pickup was a bartolini and the shop was asking 2900 (4000$) for it. Well i might be wrong but i don't think there are a lot of '76 4001 as good looking and sounding as this one, but for me it's really too much, especially without the original bridge pickup (IMO).
So i'll do my best to get either a 4001 or a 4003 as soon as possible. Wish me luck!
Even by Euro price standards, that's rather high.
A '76 isn't rare, I know the prices outside of N. America are usually almost double what we pay here, but that's too much.
The Bart can easily be replaced if necessary to make it all stock if it's desired. A new assembly from RIC is $150 here.
The condition does have a lot to do with determining the price, but I'd see if I could talk them down at least $1000 before really considering that.
A '76 isn't rare, I know the prices outside of N. America are usually almost double what we pay here, but that's too much.
The Bart can easily be replaced if necessary to make it all stock if it's desired. A new assembly from RIC is $150 here.
The condition does have a lot to do with determining the price, but I'd see if I could talk them down at least $1000 before really considering that.
Here are some "Buy it Now" prices on Ebay for your referrence:
1973 $3,799
1973 $3,000 obo
1979 $2,855 obo
1974 $2,599
1976 $2,350
1974 $2,199
1975 $2,100 obo
1978 $2,090
1978 $1,999
1979 $1,900 obo
1974 $1,800 obo
1977 $1,750 obo
Just to give you an idea. There's more.
1973 $3,799
1973 $3,000 obo
1979 $2,855 obo
1974 $2,599
1976 $2,350
1974 $2,199
1975 $2,100 obo
1978 $2,090
1978 $1,999
1979 $1,900 obo
1974 $1,800 obo
1977 $1,750 obo
Just to give you an idea. There's more.
That's what i thought about the price. 4000$ is really too much, even for an excellent looking '76 Rick...
And i don't think the guy would agree to lower the price, there was only vintage instruments in the shop, so the guy will be like "you know, it's a vintage instrument in a perfect condition, it plays great, and Rickenbackers are rare here in France (he told me he only gets about one of them each year) , and they sell fast, so here you have a great offer, you see ? mmkay"
I don't really want to "loose" my time with them, so i'll look for another Rick.
Unless one is after that vintage mojo or vibe or whatever, I'd definitely recommend buying a new 4003.
The newer features and the fact that there's no wear and tear, hidden issues, etc. make them an excellent value.
I'm sure you're going to be very happy with it.
I own 2 1970s and 1 1980s vintage Ricks, and a 2010 4003.
The 4003 gets by far the most play time. It is very good.
The neck is slightly wider than a 4001, so that may be better for many people who find Rick necks too narrow.
Well, i'm not really into that vintage thing, and i read on this thread that the new Ricks are really good (not that the old one were not good), so when i saw they were available on session music, i pulled the trigger.
The '76 4001 i played this afternoon was strung with flats, first time i played a bass with flats, i loved the smooth feeling on my fingers, but i can't really tell the difference with roundwounds tone-wise. Do you guys usually use flats with your Ricks?
The '76 4001 i played this afternoon was strung with flats, first time i played a bass with flats, i loved the smooth feeling on my fingers, but i can't really tell the difference with roundwounds tone-wise. Do you guys usually use flats with your Ricks?
I use flats on my Ric, Fender Jazz, and Carvin. Rounds on my Fender P bass, Fender V and Certain Jazz.
Always nickel rounds for me.
I used to use flats until 1986, I think I was the only non-country player in the area who did.
I tried TI Jazz flats, and they were far too low tension for me.
Once I tried my first set of rounds on my 4000 (which still had the original 10 year old flats) I was converted.
I used to use flats until 1986, I think I was the only non-country player in the area who did.
I tried TI Jazz flats, and they were far too low tension for me.
Once I tried my first set of rounds on my 4000 (which still had the original 10 year old flats) I was converted.
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