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The Soundgear Club

I'm interested. For all the things I don't like about it, I love the light weight and the playability. I would put money into it, too, if I thought I could improve it. Share your results!
Agree 100%. For some reason, I don't care for the tone on any of the super light weight ones. (But I love the playability). Don't know if that's due to body mass, or the woods (including the unusual neck woods), but there is a warmth missing. I've tried a lot of models and I've swapped out pickups. To me, no bass is more fun to hold and to play (still have my 750), but can't figure out the tone issue in the slim ones. Would welcome to hear about others who have modded theirs, especially if there are sound files.
 
One thing really surprises me about the SR655. I have one of the original Gary Willis basses, and I have come to think of that as the "Soundgear" type bass. The SR655 is a very different beast physically. Teeny weeny headstock! And thinner body, especially with the aggressive tapering of the body. The GWB is already light, the SR655 even lighter.
 
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This is a pic I took after I had the Bartolini pickups and preamp installed. I'll post more when the Hipshots are on and that should be soon. I'm going to order a few knobs online so it will take a little while for that final touch.

If you want to hear it, the bass has no effect like compression or anything on this recording, barely any EQ'ing (just a super tiny boost to highs). The Bart preamp is set to bass, mid(250hz), high all boosted about 50%



AF1QipPyvMPa7oUtEpGYR8eCDQRBbh9pJFlmj2EkvVZS
 
This is a pic I took after I had the Bartolini pickups and preamp installed. I'll post more when the Hipshots are on and that should be soon. I'm going to order a few knobs online so it will take a little while for that final touch.

If you want to hear it, the bass has no effect like compression or anything on this recording, barely any EQ'ing (just a super tiny boost to highs). The Bart preamp is set to bass, mid(250hz), high all boosted about 50%



AF1QipPyvMPa7oUtEpGYR8eCDQRBbh9pJFlmj2EkvVZS

which Bart pre did you get?
 
Hi guys - thinking about taking the dive into the fretless world - figure the only way to learn it is to play it :) I currently play an Ibanez SR prestige, and love the thin neck and playability. I am considering two fretless:
the semi hollow bodied SRH500F and the Portamento SRF700.

Can any one comment on either? I do like the idea of having lines on the SRH500F for assistance in finger placement.
 
ntmb HR-5.4AP 918.
yeah, I read your other post from link above mentioning the HR-5.4AP/918.

I asked cause I want to know what the mini switch does. Is it mid freq selector (as on the HR-5.4) or a coil tap switch.

I chose the HR-5.2AP/918 when upgrading a bass of mine that came with MK1 pups & pre (not an Ibanez), cause the HR-5.2 doesn't use mini switch for mid freq selector, instead it uses push-pull mid pot, so I could use the existing mini switch hole for installing a coil tap switch.
 
yeah, I read your other post from link above mentioning the HR-5.4AP/918.

I asked cause I want to know what the mini switch does. Is it mid freq selector (as on the HR-5.4) or a coil tap switch.

I chose the HR-5.2AP/918 when upgrading a bass of mine that came with MK1 pups & pre (not an Ibanez), cause the HR-5.2 doesn't use mini switch for mid freq selector, instead it uses push-pull mid pot, so I could use the existing mini switch hole for installing a coil tap switch.
That's a good idea, I still would like to have a coil tap and also a series/parallel switch but there's no space. That switch on my bass is a 3 way mid frequency selector (250hz, 500hz, 800hz)
 
Hi guys - thinking about taking the dive into the fretless world - figure the only way to learn it is to play it :) I currently play an Ibanez SR prestige, and love the thin neck and playability. I am considering two fretless:
the semi hollow bodied SRH500F and the Portamento SRF700.

Can any one comment on either? I do like the idea of having lines on the SRH500F for assistance in finger placement.
I think the Portamento looks cooler plus it has piezo and magnetic (MK1) pickups
 
That's a good idea, I still would like to have a coil tap and also a series/parallel switch but there's no space. That switch on my bass is a 3 way mid frequency selector (250hz, 500hz, 800hz)
yap, the HR-5.4 does have 3 way mid freq selector while the HR-5.2 only 2 way (IIRC 250 Hz and 800 Hz). I realized I couldn't have it all unless I was willing to sacrifice the originality of the bass body to make another hole for the second mini switch if I chose the HR-5.4, which I wasn't, cause I might sell the bass later back in its original state with the stock pups and pre.

In reality, I tend to utilize only the low and the high mid frequencies, so it wouldn't be matter for me not having the 500 Hz.

If you'd like to have series/parallel wiring as well as coil tap (single/dual coil) of your MK5CBC pups, you'll need a 3 way on-on-on mini switch for each pup, so in total with your existing mid freq selector switch, there will be 3 mini switches. So you'll need to make 2 other hole on your bass.

In my case, I've read from many other posts that the dual coil parallel wiring was generally not so preferred. Thus I opted for the outer single coils/dual coils/inner single coils coil tap which only requires a single 3 way on-off-on switch for the 2 pups. And it turned out to be true, when I made another pickup change from MK1 pups to MK5CBC pups on my other bass (this time an Ibanez), the tech guy wired the dual coil inside the pup in parallel. I brought the bass home but I concluded that I didn't like the parallel sound, so I made another visit to his workshop and he changed them to series.
 
yap, the HR-5.4 does have 3 way mid freq selector while the HR-5.2 only 2 way (IIRC 250 Hz and 800 Hz). I realized I couldn't have it all unless I was willing to sacrifice the originality of the bass body to make another hole for the second mini switch if I chose the HR-5.4, which I wasn't, cause I might sell the bass later back in its original state with the stock pups and pre.

In reality, I tend to utilize only the low and the high mid frequencies, so it wouldn't be matter for me not having the 500 Hz.

If you'd like to have series/parallel wiring as well as coil tap (single/dual coil) of your MK5CBC pups, you'll need a 3 way on-on-on mini switch for each pup, so in total with your existing mid freq selector switch, there will be 3 mini switches. So you'll need to make 2 other hole on your bass.

In my case, I've read from many other posts that the dual coil parallel wiring was generally not so preferred. Thus I opted for the outer single coils/dual coils/inner single coils coil tap which only requires a single 3 way on-off-on switch for the 2 pups. And it turned out to be true, when I made another pickup change from MK1 pups to MK5CBC pups on my other bass (this time an Ibanez), the tech guy wired the dual coil inside the pup in parallel. I brought the bass home but I concluded that I didn't like the parallel sound, so I made another visit to his workshop and he changed them to series.
Then having series/parallel switches isn't really practical for me, especially because the extra switches wouldn't fit in the cavity, plus I keep hearing that parallel doesn't sound good. I'm interested in what you opted for "coils/dual coils/inner single coils coil tap which only requires a single 3 way" switch, though it still probably wouldn't fit in the cavity but I wouldn't mind having a hole drilled in my bass for that awesome extra feature.
 
Then having series/parallel switches isn't really practical for me, especially because the extra switches wouldn't fit in the cavity, plus I keep hearing that parallel doesn't sound good. I'm interested in what you opted for "coils/dual coils/inner single coils coil tap which only requires a single 3 way" switch, though it still probably wouldn't fit in the cavity but I wouldn't mind having a hole drilled in my bass for that awesome extra feature.
I think adding just 1 other mini switch would still fit in your SR cavity. I'm saying this cause my SRFF806, which basically has the same body outline as your SR505, came with preamp which has 2 mini switches (besides the 5 knobs).
 
Hi guys - thinking about taking the dive into the fretless world - figure the only way to learn it is to play it :) I currently play an Ibanez SR prestige, and love the thin neck and playability. I am considering two fretless:
the semi hollow bodied SRH500F and the Portamento SRF700.

Can any one comment on either? I do like the idea of having lines on the SRH500F for assistance in finger placement.
I've been using a portamento for some time. It's very versatile, and the tiny fret markers are a help if you've got to make a big jump or need to make a visual check on position, but they're not much use for the upper strings (wrong side) or the extremes of the fingerboard (parallax), so expect to use muscle memory and ears most of the time. Pity they didn't put the markers on both sides of the fingerboard really.
The "wings" of the body are very soft mahogany which, on mine at any rate, bruise very easily. The up side of this is that the body seems to work almost like a semi-acoustic. Not sure if this is accidental or deliberate, but it's very effective.
I can't get it to sound exactly like an upright, but it's reasonably close. I've tried several different types of strings on it, from the original chromes to rounds and most recently La Bella Gold White, which are probably closest to an upright so far.
The piezo eats batteries, but if they go in mid-gig there's enough left to finish the set using the magnetic pickups. If this is important to you, the SRH relies completely on the piezo so you may not have the same security blanket.
I do find it difficult to control volume. Don't know whether mine is incorrectly wired, but the magnetic p.u. Volume controls need a lot of turning, good for subtle mixing but a pain if you're using both and need to change volume quickly. You'll also lose any mix that you've sorted out (like on a Jazz), so a volume pedal is a really good move, or just use one p.u. and change tone with the e.q. Of course you also lose any mix combination if you change from magnetic to piezo, and have to potentially alter 3 volume controls at a time - not a problem, but something to bear in mind if you're going to be in a hurry to change sound.
If you change string types you may need to adjust the sensitivity of the piezo to bring it into line with the magnetic p.u.'s. but at least you have the facility to do that.
Mine's a 5 string so there may be less neck dive on a 4 string. It's not a big problem but it is there, more so than on some of my other (asmittedly more expensive) basses.
My only other comment is that the fingerboard ends were quite sharp on mine, and I ended up running a file round to smooth them off. But all in all it's an excellent piece of kit for its price point, and it certainly draws attention with its spectacular looks.
Hope this helps.
 
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Just got in this 1988 MIJ SR1000e. Couldn't resist the semi-novelty of it, with it being one of the earliest SR models and having an ebony fretboard and Dimarzio P/J pickups. Very well-made, good fretwork, etc. Unfortunately, a previous owner f-ed it up messing with the electronics (what that second, now-disconnected toggle switch they added was for, I have no idea). The output level is really low and its frequency response basically drops off and ends at around 800Hz.

When I bought it off the Bay, I figured I might end up having some sort of preamp put in it, so now that it's going to have to go to a tech anyway, I guess I could have them put an Audere or something in there.

SR1000e.jpg
 
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Just got in this 1988 MIJ SR1000e. Couldn't resist the semi-novelty of it, with it being one of the earliest SR models and having an ebony fretboard and Dimarzio P/J pickups. Very well-made, good fretwork, etc. Unfortunately, a previous owner f-ed it up messing with the electronics (what that second, now-disconnected toggle switch they added was for, I have no idea). The output level is really low and its frequency response basically drops off and ends at around 800Hz.

When I bought it off the Bay, I figured I might end up having some sort of preamp put in it, so now that it's going to have to go to a tech anyway, I guess I could have them put an Audere or something in there.

View attachment 1104083

Cool. I really like the plain old dots more than the abalone inlays they have now.