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The Soundgear Club

My hands are far from tiny, but this is really helpful information!
I always think about my technique on the top side of the fingerboard, and my right hand, but never the thumb on the back of the neck.

Perhaps there is something wrong with my left thumb technique, and the girth of the bass necks that I usually play are allowing me enough slack to compensate.

I will do some research and maybe clip a go pro to the back of the headstock during a practice session, then review the footage.

Thanks so much!

When I started to teach a few people on the side, I tried to find a few infos on what some good posture would look like - and how to explain it to especially younger students. The videos from Adam neely are old, but gold.






 
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The videos from Adam neely are old, but gold.
Yes, these are interesting aspects. I think I've seen the videos before.
What he explains surely works in certain scenarios, as long as your actual posture allows for it. Also the upright bass argument makes sense, which I can confirm as an upright "freshman". :)
But I, for example, don't really like to play bass guitar while sitting (although in a particular setup with acoustic bass guitar and feet percussion I have to). And when I'm standing, I don't like my bass to be too high, it feels unnatural and uncomfortable. Moreover, having short fingers, I often have to slide up and down the neck to reach all notes within a position, especially in the lower register, and for this I'm using a technique from my "previous life" as a guitarist, where the thumb remains fixed so that I can blindly slide back to where I came from. It doesn't look much like a "neutral position", but it still works for me.
Similarly, e.g. one of my bass guitar students apparently once had a hand/finger injury that now makes the "neutral position" hard to maintain for him, and so we always have to work around it.
Everyone's different, and so there's no "correct" catch-all technique. :)
 
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Positive battery wire issue

Can someone help me figure out what's wrong with the positive wire on my Ibanez sr300e

I have been looking for a replacement but i haven't had much luck finding the exact part using the part number so any advice on where I could get parts from a reliable source would be appreciated, i also have three extra lock washers (i think that's what they're called im 17 so correct me if I'm wrong) but I looked it up and it seems that Ibanez includes spare ones but im not sure if that's right again correct me if I'm wrong

The part number for the battery box is 4PT1CBB2 so if anyone could find anything again that would be greatly appreciated

Also any advice on where to get Ibanez parts and parts for any other brand that would be appreciated too
IMG_7522.jpeg
 
When I started to teach a few people on the side, I tried to find a few infos on what some good posture would look like - and how to explain it to especially younger students. The videos from Adam neely are old, but gold.
Checked my technique tonight on my usa Geddy Lee Jazz Bass and my Sire V7. I'm not doing any of those things wrong.
I looked at the neck thickness dimensions published by Ibanez, and my main Jazz Bass is about 2mm thicker at the first fret, and about 4mm thicker at the 12th than the Ibanez. Not tremendous numbers, but it sure did feel a lot different. I didn't measure my P bass, but it's thicker still. None of those have ever hurt my hand at all.
Kind of wish I still had the Ibanez to check myself with that instrument. Maybe something about the body size and shape made me play it differently.
I might have to give one another shot.
 
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Hey folks. Story time and a few questions.
Back in Nov of 2023, I purchased an SR375ef fretless. It's posted several pages back in this thread. Post #9493

I was gigging a lot at the time, and my main #1 was still my old 1983 Pedulla Buzz 4-string. I was also relying heavily on my Fender Player P for some sets. The neck of the early model Buzz was heavily based upon 1970's Fender Jazz models, but with a few updates like 24 positions, neck-through, and a flatter fingerboard radius. I had been playing that bass and gigging it since about 1990, so my muscle memory was pretty well set.
I had played fivers before without too much trouble for short periods like a song or two at a session, but had never owned one before.

Anyway, I just was having trouble bonding with this bass, and after a few months I began to catch a a few little comments from my hot wife about owning things that you don't use, then those things begin to own you. She is generally right about most everything, so I went ahead and sold the Ibanez.

Well, now I find myself taking a long break from playing out. I left the bands that I was a partner in. Really focusing right now on a few big life changes. Selling our home, looking to relocate closer to grandchildren, seeking a new full-time job. So just not interested in playing out until we get resettled which could be later in the year, or next year.
And thinking about it for unknown reason, I have begun to think that maybe I was too hasty in selling my SR375.

Anyway, the issue I had wasn't just that B string, that was a minor issue. The SR neck is so incredibly thin from the back of the neck to the top of the fingerboard, that my left hand would get really tired really quickly playing that bass. I could play my Pedulla, My Fender P or J for hours on end without my hand getting tired, but thirty minutes on the SR would land me in cramp city. Just my fretting hand. No problem with the pluckers.
My hands are not huge. I consider them kind of average. Not at all small. I wear size Large gloves.

Have any of you had that problem after switching over from Fender or Fenderish neck shapes, and did you get past it to the point that your SR feels like home and you have no more hand fatigue?
If so, were there any specific drills or exercises that you did to help, and how long did it take to adapt to that ruler-thin neck shape?

When you made the switch, were you still young? Any other 50-60-somethings out there who might have successfully made the switch recently?

Thanks for your time. Rock on.
My first bass in 2003 was an sr250 I think and I transitioned to fenders, Warwick and many other basses over the years but I keep going back to the SR. It is just comfortable to play and feels like half the weight. I had bought a SR1205 many years ago but don't like the 5 string so I sold it . I recently bought a SR1200 and love it. The neck is perfect and the body is comfortable. I am now 46 and have both a MIA Jazz and P but they haven't been played since last summer only the SR400 and the SR1200 have seen play on a weekly Bassis. It might be time to sell the Fenders….
 
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I think I posted this in the fretless club and as a standalone thread during the build, but not here.

This is a GWB35 that I got as a bit of a hackneyed piece from GC Used. Its truck bed liner finish was flaking, and the electrics were intermittent. I revamped everything from top to bottom. Bart pre, all gold hardware and a refinish. I have the ramp, albeit now in 3 pieces with a matching finish, but find the pickup quite suitable as a ramp. Unfortunately, I 'm pretty much done with 5's and am awaiting a sire Z7 4 string fretless from Sweetwater. Once I A/B the Z7 with this GWB, and find it satisfactory, this will likely go into the classifieds.

I've removed most of the Willis foibles ( ramp, tri-knobs, slo-release bridge) and went for a more trad sound gear vibe. But i must say, for the lesser cost Willis model, the fingerboard is stellar, and the tone and bloom of the notes is really something. TI flats add to the tone too. I'm proud of this build, but I really have zero interest in 5's anymore.

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IMG_9990.jpeg
 
Has anyone here strung their SRMS800 (the fanned fret) as BEAD?

If so, what's your take?
I got mine used and it was strung BEAD. I ended up switching to standard tuning, but I have to say that it sounded pretty damn good with the B string being the biggest surprise. Was nowhere near as floppy as I thought it would be. If I didn't already have my six stringers, I would have kept that tuning.
 
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My GSRM20B Mikro Bass, which I suppose technically belongs to the Soundgear series, at least it has SR in it's model name.

Just 28.6" scale length, Okoume body, Purpleheart fretboard, and a flamed Maple neck, for some odd random reason.

From the 2023 Chinese production.

And also luckily perfectly leveled frets, with no sharp fret ends.

Equipped with just a single passive bridge EMG Geezer Butler J pickup, from the P/J set, strung with Elixir Nanoweb guitar strings of the gauges .068 - .052 - .038 - .028, and tuned to B standard tuning (that is like the 2 lower strings fo a baritone guitar, or one octave above the 4 lower strings of a 5 or 6 string bass).

1750253123194.png


Sounds awesome too:

Basic "Clean" tone: 0:00 - 4:32
Tremolo + Flanger: 4:32 - 7:57
Overdrive: 7:57 - 11:50
Basic "Clean" tone: 11:50 - 16:01

I should probably add that my basic "clean" tone includes a 1 octave up effect, to get an effect somewhat similar to that of an 8 string octave course bass, that I achieved via a TC Electronic Sub'N'Up Mini, with a custom Toneprint made with the Toneprint editor.
 
My GSRM20B Mikro Bass, which I suppose technically belongs to the Soundgear series, at least it has SR in it's model name.

Just 28.6" scale length, Okoume body, Purpleheart fretboard, and a flamed Maple neck, for some odd random reason.

From the 2023 Chinese production.

And also luckily perfectly leveled frets, with no sharp fret ends.

Equipped with just a single passive bridge EMG Geezer Butler J pickup, from the P/J set, strung with Elixir Nanoweb guitar strings of the gauges .068 - .052 - .038 - .028, and tuned to B standard tuning (that is like the 2 lower strings fo a baritone guitar, or one octave above the 4 lower strings of a 5 or 6 string bass).

View attachment 7254088

Sounds awesome too:
View attachment 7254093
Basic "Clean" tone: 0:00 - 4:32
Tremolo + Flanger: 4:32 - 7:57
Overdrive: 7:57 - 11:50
Basic "Clean" tone: 11:50 - 16:01

I should probably add that my basic "clean" tone includes a 1 octave up effect, to get an effect somewhat similar to that of an 8 string octave course bass, that I achieved via a TC Electronic Sub'N'Up Mini, with a custom Toneprint made with the Toneprint editor.

I like that Jack sticker on there. With that finish it looks really good.
 
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Hello, NBD yesterday…

An absolute lightweight (3.7 kg), the bass is a 2020 special edition that I stumbled upon by chance online. I really like the finish, and the birdseye maple fingerboard fits well into the overall look. The playability is, as is typical for SR, simply fantastic. This is my first Ibanez with Nordstrand pickups. I always had serious reservations and am actually a Bartolini fan. Well, I have to revise my prejudice: the Nordys are powerful, sound fat, and versatile. I think I'll swap out the Daddario EXL for Sadowsky Blue Label nickels, DR Lo Rider nickels, or maybe even Daddario chromes... Conclusion: fantastic bass, happy bassist.
IMG_0509.jpeg


IMG_0508.jpeg
 
My GSRM20B Mikro Bass, which I suppose technically belongs to the Soundgear series, at least it has SR in it's model name.

Just 28.6" scale length, Okoume body, Purpleheart fretboard, and a flamed Maple neck, for some odd random reason.

From the 2023 Chinese production.

And also luckily perfectly leveled frets, with no sharp fret ends.

Equipped with just a single passive bridge EMG Geezer Butler J pickup, from the P/J set, strung with Elixir Nanoweb guitar strings of the gauges .068 - .052 - .038 - .028, and tuned to B standard tuning (that is like the 2 lower strings fo a baritone guitar, or one octave above the 4 lower strings of a 5 or 6 string bass).

View attachment 7254088

Sounds awesome too:
View attachment 7254093
Basic "Clean" tone: 0:00 - 4:32
Tremolo + Flanger: 4:32 - 7:57
Overdrive: 7:57 - 11:50
Basic "Clean" tone: 11:50 - 16:01

I should probably add that my basic "clean" tone includes a 1 octave up effect, to get an effect somewhat similar to that of an 8 string octave course bass, that I achieved via a TC Electronic Sub'N'Up Mini, with a custom Toneprint made with the Toneprint editor.
Hey, they're cool…
They count.
 
Its funny. I keep saying how I have no interest in 5's any more and then i buy an SRSC805 AGAIN.
IMG_1935.jpeg

This will the the 4th time Ive come back to this model. I alway swap in better pickups and end up loving it for a time. This time I'm likely using Sadowsky Soapbars in as I've got a Sadowsky Japan modern 4 and i love it. But the design of these SRSC's, especially the ridiculously flat neck, makes them just an incredible fiver.
 
Its funny. I keep saying how I have no interest in 5's any more and then i buy an SRSC805 AGAIN.
View attachment 7258164
This will the the 4th time Ive come back to this model. I alway swap in better pickups and end up loving it for a time. This time I'm likely using Sadowsky Soapbars in as I've got a Sadowsky Japan modern 4 and i love it. But the design of these SRSC's, especially the ridiculously flat neck, makes them just an incredible fiver.
I had a similar Cort A5 plus…

I think it's the construction that makes these basses better than expected: the neck-through plus the single-cut principle. With the Cort A5, it also makes sense to switch from the Bartolini MK 1. Both basses are presumably manufactured in the same factory in Indonesia. I wonder if there are contractual agreements between Cort and Ibanez, given the striking similarities?
IMG_3739.jpeg
 

Tell me about it……the differences are striking though.