Uhh... I think you mean cm... 1mm is the width of a .040 string.
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The Squier Mini Precision Bass Club
- Thread starter sabre79
- Start date
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Perfect picture - Exactly what I wanted to see - Thanks !
Except that those distances are not in mm, or the decimal point is in the wrong place, or something like that, true ?
EDIT : I see that I am late in returning to the party.
EDIT 2 : Your pic also shows how close that the bridge is to the edge of the body, which Volker measured for me earlier.
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Perfect picture - Exactly what I wanted to see - Thanks !
....EDIT 2 : Your pic also shows how close that the bridge is to the edge of the body, which Volker measured for me earlier.
~
So there is a LITTLE bit more range in string length adjustment remaining, which MIGHT make possible the idea of transplanting a Bronco neck onto a Mini-P body [without moving the bridge assembly back a full inch, instead 1/2 or 5/8], but we would be cutting things close on whether or not the intonation could be set correctly, based on the original bridge being used again, and that everything is OK at the neck pocket.
I'll be back in a bit with the other mod idea.
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sorry they're in cm~
Perfect picture - Exactly what I wanted to see - Thanks !
Except that those distances are not in mm, or the decimal point is in the wrong place, or something like that, true ?
EDIT : I see that I am late in returning to the party.
EDIT 2 : Your pic also shows how close that the bridge is to the edge of the body, which Volker measured for me earlier.
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An earlier recent post of mine was about putting a slightly longer neck onto a Squier Mini-P body, because it is something which has repeatedly been considered in this thread, and we were looking at a Squier Bronco neck as a candidate.
My conclusion was that while it MIGHT be possible, achieving proper intonation may or may not occur, even when we move the original bridge assembly back a bit, because there may not be enough body to anchor it safely.
Here's a different mod idea, which may make more sense to some other players than it would to me personally, but after crunching the numbers, it does look to be possible and intonatable, and maybe without moving the bridge assembly at all, so without further ado....
It's a Squier Jaguar SS neck onto a Squier Mini-P body, which would result in some of the same things happening which would have happened if we put a Squier Bronco neck onto a Squier Mini-P body, and from the measurements and accounts which I have gathered [and will post separately], the neck pocket should fit.
OK, the reasons to try THIS particular Franken-Fender experiment [and the benefits/results from doing so] are :
1) 30" scale fits regular short scale strings better than a stock Mini-P does,
2) Mini-P body weight is somewhat lighter than a Jag SS body,
3) Nut width is still 1.5", but I hear that the depth of the Jag SS neck is more, due to a different contour shape, which may be a good thing for some of us,
4) Split-style hum-cancelling pickup, but a Jag SS already has one,
5) No Maple fretboard on a Jag SS neck, same as a Mini-P.
That adds up to only 2 or 3 reasons to do it, and depending upon which of them matter to you, it may or may not be worthwhile to proceed.
But if we DO proceed, the scale length numbers will work better, and here's why :
The Squier Jaguar SS neck has an extra fret, compared to a Bronco or a Mustang neck, so when we put it all of the way into the neck pocket of a Mini-P body, the bridge is a lot closer to already being in the correct position, even without moving it back [instead using some of the remaining intonation adjustment range of the bridge], and if we DID choose to move the bridge back, my calculations suggest that it would only need to move about 1/4", which is much more doable than what would be required for the other necks of my first virtual experiment.
And there you have it.
Cheers !
~
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This reminds me of the engine swap threads I used to read where someone would put a Corvette engine into a Chevette. In the end, they had something that didn't perform as well as the original Corvette, and was not as efficient as the original Chevette, but was at least unique.~
An earlier recent post of mine was about putting a slightly longer neck onto a Squier Mini-P body, because it is something which has repeatedly been considered in this thread, and we were looking at a Squier Bronco neck as a candidate.
My conclusion was that while it MIGHT be possible, achieving proper intonation may or may not occur, even when we move the original bridge assembly back a bit, because there may not be enough body to anchor it safely.
Here's a different mod idea, which may make more sense to some other players than it would to me personally, but after crunching the numbers, it does look to be possible and intonatable, and maybe without moving the bridge assembly at all, so without further ado....
It's a Squier Jaguar SS neck onto a Squier Mini-P body, which would result in some of the same things happening which would have happened if we put a Squier Bronco neck onto a Squier Mini-P body, and from the measurements and accounts which I have gathered [and will post separately], the neck pocket should fit.
OK, the reasons to try THIS particular Franken-Fender experiment [and the benefits/results from doing so] are :
1) 30" scale fits regular short scale strings better than a stock Mini-P does,
2) Mini-P body weight is somewhat lighter than a Jag SS body,
3) Nut width is still 1.5", but I hear that the depth of the Jag SS neck is more, due to a different contour shape, which may be a good thing for some of us,
4) Split-style hum-cancelling pickup, but a Jag SS already has one,
5) No Maple fretboard on a Jag SS neck, same as a Mini-P.
That adds up to only 2 or 3 reasons to do it, and depending upon which of them matter to you, it may or may not be worthwhile to proceed.
But if we DO proceed, the scale length numbers will work better, and here's why :
The Squier Jaguar SS neck has an extra fret, compared to a Bronco or a Mustang neck, so when we put it all of the way into the neck pocket of a Mini-P body, the bridge is a lot closer to already being in the correct position, even without moving it back [instead using some of the remaining intonation adjustment range of the bridge], and if we DID choose to move the bridge back, my calculations suggest that it would only need to move about 1/4", which is much more doable than what would be required for the other necks of my first virtual experiment.
And there you have it.
Cheers !
~
Happy to cheer you on!
~
....Here's a different mod idea, which may make more sense to some other players than it would to me personally, but after crunching the numbers, it does look to be possible and intonatable, and maybe without moving the bridge assembly at all, so without further ado....
It's a Squier Jaguar SS neck onto a Squier Mini-P body, which would result in some of the same things happening which would have happened if we put a Squier Bronco neck onto a Squier Mini-P body, and from the measurements and accounts which I have gathered [and will post separately], the neck pocket should fit.
OK, the reasons to try THIS particular Franken-Fender experiment [and the benefits/results from doing so] are :
1) 30" scale fits regular short scale strings better than a stock Mini-P does,
2) Mini-P body weight is somewhat lighter than a Jag SS body,
3) Nut width is still 1.5", but I hear that the depth of the Jag SS neck is more, due to a different contour shape, which may be a good thing for some of us,
4) Split-style hum-cancelling pickup, but a Jag SS already has one,
5) No Maple fretboard on a Jag SS neck, same as a Mini-P.
That adds up to only 2 or 3 reasons to do it, and depending upon which of them matter to you, it may or may not be worthwhile to proceed.
But if we DO proceed, the scale length numbers will work better, and here's why :
The Squier Jaguar SS neck has an extra fret, compared to a Bronco or a Mustang neck, so when we put it all of the way into the neck pocket of a Mini-P body, the bridge is a lot closer to already being in the correct position, even without moving it back [instead using some of the remaining intonation adjustment range of the bridge], and if we DID choose to move the bridge back, my calculations suggest that it would only need to move about 1/4", which is much more doable than what would be required for the other necks of my first virtual experiment.
And there you have it.
Cheers !
~
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Thanks !
Part of what I'm doing is just keeping busy during the cold Winter days spent mostly indoors, pandemic or not.
Another part is contributing to this club, even without owning its flagship instrument.
And of course, it's also something to do while not gigging, and being a retired [from day job] senior.
Yet one more element is the gathering of the physical specs of all of the short scale Fender basses together into one place, which to my knowledge has not been done before.
It's about information management, and about learning new things, such as figuring out what parts can and cannot be swapped, and if so then under what conditions, and BTW, there are a lot more of these necks and bodies which ARE cross-compatible than many folks believe, think, or know, and Fender has little to gain by publishing the info.
In this thread, I naturally chose to post first about mods which at least partially involve a Squier Mini-P, however I have become aware of, and even a bit excited, about certain others which do not.
More to come....
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I'll be honest Dave. I find the endless discussion of grafting a Bronco neck onto a Mini P to be very tedious. This is mainly because I don't believe - having owned both and eyeballed them side by side - that there's a chance in hell it would work. Even if one were to put in a ridiculous amount of hours and mods and somehow accomplished it, they'd end up with a neck-diving joke of a bass, with the bridge hanging over the edge of the body. It would be far, far easier to just stick a set of Mini P pickups into a Bronco, or another 30" scale bass.
Also, unless one just happened to have a Bronco neck laying around, it's not worth ruining two good basses to make one Frankenmonster. You're certainly not going to put the Mini P neck on the Bronco body.
I think at this point you either need to buy both a Mini P and a Bronco and attempt the project, or just let the subject go.
Also, unless one just happened to have a Bronco neck laying around, it's not worth ruining two good basses to make one Frankenmonster. You're certainly not going to put the Mini P neck on the Bronco body.
I think at this point you either need to buy both a Mini P and a Bronco and attempt the project, or just let the subject go.
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To summarize/recap :
First, we looked at putting a Squier Bronco neck onto a Squier Mini-P body.
My conclusion was that while it MIGHT be possible, achieving proper intonation may or may not occur, even when moving the original bridge assembly back a bit, because there may not be enough body to anchor it safely.
Next we considered putting a Squier Jaguar SS neck onto a Squier Mini-P body.
With that, the scale length numbers worked better, and here's why :
The Squier Jaguar SS neck has an extra fret, compared to a Bronco [or a Mustang] neck [making the fingerboard longer], so that when we place the neck heel all of the way into the neck pocket of a Mini-P body, the bridge is closer to already being in the correct position, even without moving it back [instead using some of the remaining intonation adjustment range of the bridge], and if we DID choose to move the bridge back, my calculations suggested that it would only need to move about 3/16" to 1/4", for which there IS enough wood in the body, or possibly not move it at all.
Here are the numbers behind the above observations :
Squier Mini-P
scale length is 28.6" [about 28+5/8"]
fingerboard length is about 20"
Squier Bronco
scale length is 30"
fingerboard length is about 20.5" [20+1/2"]
Squier Jaguar SS
scale length is 30"
fingerboard length is about 21.175" [about 21+3/16"]
- - -
When putting a Bronco neck onto a Mini-P body, we first subtract the 20" Mini-P fingerboard length from the total 28+5/8"scale, leaving 8+5/8" from the heel of the neck pocket to the G string saddle crest.
Then we add this 8+5/8" to the Bronco fingerboard length of 20+1/2", giving 29+1/8", so we are 7/8" short of the required 30" scale, and the bridge would need to be 7/8" further away at the G string saddle crest, in order to fulfill the scale requirement.
Since there is very little wood left behind the bridge of a Mini-P body, it might not be possible to complete the move, OR, move the entire bridge only part way, and try to use the string length bolts to get the rest of the scale length for proper intonation.
- - -
When putting a Jag SS neck onto a Mini-P body, we first subtract the 20" Mini-P fingerboard length from the total 28+5/8"scale, leaving 8+5/8" from the heel of the neck pocket to the G string saddle crest.
Then we add this 8+5/8" to the Jag SS fingerboard length of 21+3/16", giving 29+13/16", so we are only 3/16" short of the required 30" scale, so the bridge may not need to be moved at all, if there is 3/16" or more available to lengthen the strings by using the intonation bolts.
- - -
However, if trying the opposite, putting a shorter scale neck [such as from a Mini-P] onto one of those other longer [regular short] scale bodies, there WOULD be enough wood on the pickups side of the bridge to allow the bridge to be moved in THAT direction for proper scale length, by the same amounts as it would have needed to be moved away in the examples which I have already detailed above.
- - -
BTW, from the measurements and accounts which I have gathered [and will post separately], the neck pockets and necks should fit in all instances.
~
To summarize/recap :
First, we looked at putting a Squier Bronco neck onto a Squier Mini-P body.
My conclusion was that while it MIGHT be possible, achieving proper intonation may or may not occur, even when moving the original bridge assembly back a bit, because there may not be enough body to anchor it safely.
Next we considered putting a Squier Jaguar SS neck onto a Squier Mini-P body.
With that, the scale length numbers worked better, and here's why :
The Squier Jaguar SS neck has an extra fret, compared to a Bronco [or a Mustang] neck [making the fingerboard longer], so that when we place the neck heel all of the way into the neck pocket of a Mini-P body, the bridge is closer to already being in the correct position, even without moving it back [instead using some of the remaining intonation adjustment range of the bridge], and if we DID choose to move the bridge back, my calculations suggested that it would only need to move about 3/16" to 1/4", for which there IS enough wood in the body, or possibly not move it at all.
Here are the numbers behind the above observations :
Squier Mini-P
scale length is 28.6" [about 28+5/8"]
fingerboard length is about 20"
Squier Bronco
scale length is 30"
fingerboard length is about 20.5" [20+1/2"]
Squier Jaguar SS
scale length is 30"
fingerboard length is about 21.175" [about 21+3/16"]
- - -
When putting a Bronco neck onto a Mini-P body, we first subtract the 20" Mini-P fingerboard length from the total 28+5/8"scale, leaving 8+5/8" from the heel of the neck pocket to the G string saddle crest.
Then we add this 8+5/8" to the Bronco fingerboard length of 20+1/2", giving 29+1/8", so we are 7/8" short of the required 30" scale, and the bridge would need to be 7/8" further away at the G string saddle crest, in order to fulfill the scale requirement.
Since there is very little wood left behind the bridge of a Mini-P body, it might not be possible to complete the move, OR, move the entire bridge only part way, and try to use the string length bolts to get the rest of the scale length for proper intonation.
- - -
When putting a Jag SS neck onto a Mini-P body, we first subtract the 20" Mini-P fingerboard length from the total 28+5/8"scale, leaving 8+5/8" from the heel of the neck pocket to the G string saddle crest.
Then we add this 8+5/8" to the Jag SS fingerboard length of 21+3/16", giving 29+13/16", so we are only 3/16" short of the required 30" scale, so the bridge may not need to be moved at all, if there is 3/16" or more available to lengthen the strings by using the intonation bolts.
- - -
However, if trying the opposite, putting a shorter scale neck [such as from a Mini-P] onto one of those other longer [regular short] scale bodies, there WOULD be enough wood on the pickups side of the bridge to allow the bridge to be moved in THAT direction for proper scale length, by the same amounts as it would have needed to be moved away in the examples which I have already detailed above.
- - -
BTW, from the measurements and accounts which I have gathered [and will post separately], the neck pockets and necks should fit in all instances.
~
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During the past week or so the club thread has been pretty quiet, so I decided to post about these modding thoughts.
My posts - including the one immediately after your last post, are proof that the first idea could work, albeit with limitations, which I also clearly pointed out, and having illustrated those, I agree with you that I doubt that I would do it if I had the pieces at hand, which was partially why I presented the second mod.
That said, I do not NEED to do these mods, as I own other basses which make doing them unnecessary, but as I said in another post, part of my going thru the motions, gathering the data WITHOUT buying the basses in question - and posting about the experience - was to contribute to the knowledge base of this thread [and of TalkBass in general], and I do feel that I have accomplished that.
I could have kept all of this to myself, but instead chose to share, and you are complaining that I did.
And BTW, you provided some of my data.
Regarding neck dive, yes, it would increase from putting a longer neck onto any bass, but there are well-known ways of dealing with that, and I would do so if necessary, if I ever followed through with the experiment.
And I did once have a Bronco, purchased for peanuts, but resold it before I knew that the Mini-P had been introduced. - C'est la vie on that, and hindsight is 20/20 as always.
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Upon further reflection, I believe that I bought and resold the Bronco before the Mini-P was introduced, rather than after it was and before I knew of it.
Still c'est la vie.
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All good. I was a bit crabby the other day LOL! In retrospect, your point about the thread having been quiet is certainly valid. Speculate away!
I'd still love to see you pick up a Mini P and a used Bronco and actually try the neck swap. When you do, please post photos here!
Yes, it's quiet here. I always mean to post a demo to liven things up but I'm not handy with the mechanics of making videos.
All good. I was a bit crabby the other day LOL! In retrospect, your point about the thread having been quiet is certainly valid. Speculate away!
I'd still love to see you pick up a Mini P and a used Bronco and actually try the neck swap. When you do, please post photos here!
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Yes, it's been vewwwwwy quiet !
And not just this thread, actually.
Maybe it's time to hunt Wabbits, hehehehehe....
As for the swapping, if I could find the instruments used and at moderate prices, I might still try it, and yes, with pics posted.
I expect that I could reverse the mods if I did not like the results, and resell the basses.
BTW, it definitely could be possible to put a Mini-P neck onto one of the 30" scale Fender/Squier basses, if the neck pockets have as close dimensions as the the reports which I've been accumulating are suggesting, because the bridge would then move toward the pickups [if at all], and there IS wood there to anchor it, though I am not sure that I would see the point in doing this particular mod for my own use.
But the result would definitely have less neck dive.
One other mod which I am actually considering trying [partially because I already own one of the basses] is Squier Bronco neck onto a Squier Jaguar SS body.
Both are already 30" scale, but this would still gain me a wider nut neck with a Maple fretboard, and I think slightly less neck dive.
First I need to score another Bronco though, to proceed.
In fairness to readers, I'll do the detailed post about that over in the Jag SS Club thread, and just post a link here to that post.
But I'll try the Jag as is first, in case I like it, as the neck is narrow but apparently deeper, some folks say.
And y'know what else ?
I just missed a used Shell Pink Bronco in the TB classifieds last week - stumbled on the ad while further researching Bronco neck specs, and looking for used Bronco or a neck from one.
That stung !
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How is the stock P pickup in the mini P bass? Anyone change it out yet?
I own a Bronco and had a nice 72 Musicmaster bass (sold) but changed pickups in both.
I saw a YouTube where the new Dimarzio Relentless P pickup was installed in a mini P bass (sounded and looked great)...this pickup is curved on top so it fits the radius well.
I own a Bronco and had a nice 72 Musicmaster bass (sold) but changed pickups in both.
I saw a YouTube where the new Dimarzio Relentless P pickup was installed in a mini P bass (sounded and looked great)...this pickup is curved on top so it fits the radius well.
I am well pleased with the stock pickups. IMO, they sound like what a P is supposed to sound like.
I love the stock pickups. I've also had mixed results with swapping out pickups in short scale basses. For that reason, I've stopped doing it unless I have to.
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I would say to give the original pup a chance.
However, your other two basses have/had single coil pickups, and I would summarily swap them out just as you did, even if they sounded good, because of the hum, same as I would do to a Jazz bass if I ever owned one, and as I did to my 1974 Ric, pretty early on after buying it new that year.
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