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The Squier Mini Precision Bass Club

Didn't click the link but the mini's cavity is pretty small…. You can definitely make your own very easily. It is one of the most basic circuits ever, and super satisfying. Get mini pots… others will chime in surly. If you want a mowtown machine use a .1mf cap. I'm dumb so don't take me too seriously. I've put together 4 Warmoth basses now and even though I'm not smart they work as expected.
 
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What is the best way of removing the nut from the Mini P? I've done a few on my Ibanez's and as the nut is a wider one that sits at the end of the frets a gentle love tap with a mallet worked perfect. The Mini P concerns me since it's in a slot, I was thinking maybe tapping a small screwdriver to the side of the nut may cause it to slide out to the side maybe?


I ask because I screwed up last night and filed the nut slot too low and now my open E buzzes like mad. With the factory strings first few frets worked perfect but upgrading to the Chromes the 1st fret was always sharp causing Rocksmiths note detection to miss the notes I was playing. I used an old round wound and filed a tiny bit off and now it buzzes so I guess the nut was set correctly after all. Thankfully I have a Tusq arriving tomorrow so shouldn't be a big issue to get it in and working hopefully, plus it's black so will look better with dark fretboard and black hardware.
 
It might be glued in. Take a very small screwdriver and use it was a wedge; tape it in slowly with a hammer just under the nut along the side of the neck.

For future reference, you can also build up nut slots by applying a drop of super glue and sprinkling on baking soda, repeating as needed.
 
Does anyone know if this wiring harness will work with the Mini?

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I installed a full harness, that had full sized components. The pots did fit inside,laterally, (barely), but the orange drop cap kept my pickguard from laying completely flat. The PG is black, against a black body,so it doesnt really stand out, but a small gap is there. So I've found that it's more the reduced cavity depth, rather than width, inhibiting the installation of full sized parts.
 
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I have an annoying issue with My Mini P. I cannot get the first 4 frets on the E & A strings to fret correctly they are always slightly sharp.

I have filed down the original nut to the point where I went too low and had to replace it with a Tusq which is also now too low and needs changing again. The intonation is as good as its ever going to be with the 12th fretted and Harmonic also being spot on. I've changed the bridge to a Kickass just in case the fat part of the Chrome E string being round the post was the issue I had already upgraded to Gotoh GB707's for the fatter tuning post anyway.

The only thing I can think of it being is the Narrow Tall frets as my Ibanez Mikro doesn't have this issue but that has medium frets, I also had a job getting my daughters Jackson Minion to fret correctly but that also has extra Jumbo frets. So it could be my heavy handed playing on bigger frets that is causing it to fret sharp maybe.

The other issue it could be was maybe the Chromes weren't compatible, I did stick an old Newtone Custom round from my Mikro on it to test and it was a .120 E and the problem was far less pronounced to the point I would be happy to use it like that. On the stock strings the issue was far less pronounced too making me think either the Chromes don't really fit the Mini P properly or I got a duff set, or the Chromes are too bendy and I'm maybe fretting too hard which would make sense if a .120 E had the issue to a far less a degree.
 
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Things
I have an annoying issue with My Mini P. I cannot get the first 4 frets on the E & A strings to fret correctly they are always slightly sharp.

I have filed down the original nut to the point where I went too low and had to replace it with a Tusq which is also now too low and needs changing again. The intonation is as good as its ever going to be with the 12th fretted and Harmonic also being spot on. I've changed the bridge to a Kickass just in case the fat part of the Chrome E string being round the post was the issue I had already upgraded to Gotoh GB707's for the fatter tuning post anyway.

The only thing I can think of it being is the Narrow Tall frets as my Ibanez Mikro doesn't have this issue but that has medium frets, I also had a job getting my daughters Jackson Minion to fret correctly but that also has extra Jumbo frets. So it could be my heavy handed playing on bigger frets that is causing it to fret sharp maybe.

The other issue it could be was maybe the Chromes weren't compatible, I did stick an old Newtone Custom round from my Mikro on it to test and it was a .120 E and the problem was far less pronounced to the point I would be happy to use it like that. On the stock strings the issue was far less pronounced too making me think either the Chromes don't really fit the Mini P properly or I got a duff set, or the Chromes are too bendy and I'm maybe fretting too hard which would make sense if a .120 E had the issue to a far less a degree.


My intonation changed with the chromes as they broke in…. How many cents sharp are you?

also Labella makes a set for the mini…. I have two minis and they are both good enough for government work…
 
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Is it possible that you're pulling the notes sharp, not with your fretting hand, but your plucking hand? I find on shorter scale basses or lower tensions strings, if you play too hard the initial attack of the note is sharp, and then it evens out.

Either way, seems like a different set of strings is the simplest thing to try. I have zero intonation issues with the La Bella strings made for the Mini.
 
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I installed a full harness, that had full sized components. The pots did fit inside,laterally, (barely), but the orange drop cap kept my pickguard from laying completely flat. The PG is black, against a black body,so it doesnt really stand out, but a small gap is there. So I've found that it's more the reduced cavity depth, rather than width, inhibiting the installation of full sized parts.
Just replace the cap with a greenie of the same value and you won't hear a difference.
 
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Well I sorted out my first few frets playing sharp issue. For the most part sticking a set of Ernie Ball Slinky Rounds on it mostly fixed the issue which means either the Chromes were duff or the fact I changed to a Kickass Bridge after getting them meant where they previously bent over the nut to the tuners was now a kink in them above 1st fret so I bet that didn't help matters. However the final part that fixed the issue was a new nut to replace the Tusq which replaced the stock nut to begin with. I was gutted I couldn't get another Tusq but I had already got the last one in the country the first time, Amazon had one left which was the one I had and no other online music store I could find in the UK had them so with no Tusq's left I had to compromise.
A UK music store had their own branded Graphite & Brass nuts so I ordered one of each and they were dirt cheap, I initially tried the brass but it was taking me ages to file it down to fit the slot with the limited tools I had at my disposal so I then tried the graphite and even though it was meant to have the exact same dimensions as the brass it just dropped straight in and even more impressive just testing it without any slot adjustments at all the first few frets played almost perfectly, so I gave up on the brass and just glued the graphite one in place instead, now everything is sounding and playing great.

Annoyingly I had skipped past this brand of nut and paid for the Tusq since they are so highly recommended and at £3 per nut I assumed they wouldn't be very good quality. However I could've had 3 of these nuts for the cost of one Tusq and even more annoyingly they don't stick out of the neck as much as the Tusq did so I don't catch my hand on it like I did the Tusq either. Due to the price I was also dubious as to whether it was actual graphite and whilst I have no way of telling for certain the strings sit nicely and aren't binding or loosing tuning stability so I assume it is a graphite infused plastic.

Either way you live and learn and all that matters now is my Mini P is now complete and I love it!
 
Thanks, but I'm not sure what a "greenie" is.
It's short-hand for caps that are green in color.

Basically a capacitor is a capacitor. These big ones are for high-voltage applications and overkill for guitars. Any 5 cent cap of the right value will work and take up a lot less real-estate.
 
Well I got my new pickguard and my god it looks AMAZING!! I'm so glad I abandoned my Steve Harris build idea as I much prefer how my Mini P looks now.

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I think the matte black pickguard on Dakota Red body with all black hardware and EMG's makes this bass look like a modern metal machine and I love it!
 
Well I got my new pickguard and my god it looks AMAZING!! I'm so glad I abandoned my Steve Harris build idea as I much prefer how my Mini P looks now.

View attachment 5268914 View attachment 5268915

I think the matte black pickguard on Dakota Red body with all black hardware and EMG's makes this bass look like a modern metal machine and I love it!
Oh one thing I forgot to mention on this post, I HIGHLY recommend the Hipshot Kickass bridge for this bass as that extra length back from the saddles it has really helps up at the tuner ends. With the Chromes on the Allparts bridge I had on before the fat part of the string went about a 1/4 round the post, with the Kickass the fat part was pulled back enough so that it only just touched the post rather than going round it at all. The Gotoh GB707 tuners with their fat tuning peg also fill me with more confidence that the strings will be ok on them as any part of the string that is going round the peg is subjected to much less of a turn angle and it looks gentler on the strings.

Right now with the Kickass I am running Ernie Ball Slinky's and they have a slightly longer length before the taper and with the Kickass I get the same 1/4 round the tuning peg I had before with the Chromes on the Allparts bridge. I certainly couldn't have used the Slinky's if I had any other bridge as too much fat part would've gone round the peg.
 

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