Mine weighs almost exactly the same as your, in fact mine might be a hair lighter. Interesting. Maybe it's the angle at which we hold our instruments.
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The Squier Mini Precision Bass Club
- Thread starter sabre79
- Start date
Mine weighs almost exactly the same as your, in fact mine might be a hair lighter. Interesting. Maybe it's the angle at which we hold our instruments.
I never had an issue either. My point was more that flats on a string-through are bent at a sharper angle than the thick part of the string that goes on a Mini-P tuning post from using Chrome short scale strings.
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That observation fits with what I posted in post 1244, requoted just above.
At least a person should try to buy/use strings manufactured as short scale [rather than long or medium], which as we have noted on other occasions, in most brands have a wrapped/wound length of anywhere from 32 inches even, thru to 32.75 inches.
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FWIW, I've seen full scale Chromes with the wrapped portion wrapped around short scale tuning posts 2-3 times with no ill effects.
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Coincidentally, 9 or 10 pounds is what the vast majority of full scale Precisions [and Jazzes and Rics] weigh.
I did not know of the Precision Junior until recently here, so unlike you, could not covet having one.
And if the Precision Junior has a narrow nut, and I had to choose something at a similar [or higher] price point in a currently produced Fender short scale bass, I'd likely be looking at Mustangs, some of which [are published to] have a 1.625" nut width like a regular scale Precision, though unfortunately not as light weight as a Mini-P, instead often above 8 pounds.
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I was just looking for a middle ground in the debate.
To that same end, let me suggest that larger diameter tuning posts would tolerate doing this better than smaller posts would.
Imagine playing the same game on a Hofner !
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Let's do a string round up.
If you changed strings on your bass to something other than stock, what did you use, what gauges, and what did you think about the results - before and after.
Commence.
If you changed strings on your bass to something other than stock, what did you use, what gauges, and what did you think about the results - before and after.
Commence.
I'm not sure what exactly you found price wise on the tuners, but when I googled "Gotoh GB350" I did see the sets you mentioned (2+2) and singles. Assuming you are going for chrome, I found them on Stew Mac's website in both sets and singles. 4 of the singles were the same price as the set so conceivably you could get 4 for the single side. I'll include links for you. If you were looking at a different color, I'm guessing the 4 singles would still match the price of the sets.I was all ready to have to shield the cavity but nope, it's quiet. The only real issues for me are: 1) nuts slots too shallow, 2) neck dive and 3) the flatwound string issue.
For 1) I'll buy nut files and be set for life. For 2) I'll try to find Gotoh GB350 tuners. Unfortunately they only seem to come in a 2+2 package. I found singles but they're really expensive, plus shipping from the UK, it ends up being almost as much as I paid for the whole bassFor 3) I'll probably risk it and install the 50-105 long scale Chromes.
Singles: Individual Gotoh Compact Bass Tuner | stewmac.com
Set: Gotoh Compact Bass Tuner, 2L+2R Set | stewmac.com
I'm in Europe so no US stores. The only singles I found in Europe cost 25 Euros each, while the 2R+2L set (useless) is around 80 Euros.
The only reason I'm considering changing the tuners is to alleviate the neck dive so I'm interested in the lighter GB350. The GB707s are available and more affordable but I don't know how much lighter they are than the stock tuners.
I used Krylon fusion in “satin black” on my Squier affinity p project in June 2017. That is my most used bass and it’s held up really well. It will scratch or rub off if abused enough, but unless you are sloppy with a pick, you should probably be ok. The one spot that wore through on my pick guard is where my thumb rests on top of the pickup.
As far as application goes, I found that light coats, allowed to dry for 24 hours between them ( 3 coats in all) seemed to keep the paint from streaking or clumping. I allowed it to dry for about a week before I put it back on the bass. It seemed to remain tacky for quite a while, but eventually hardened nicely.
As far as application goes, I found that light coats, allowed to dry for 24 hours between them ( 3 coats in all) seemed to keep the paint from streaking or clumping. I allowed it to dry for about a week before I put it back on the bass. It seemed to remain tacky for quite a while, but eventually hardened nicely.
I used Ibanez Mikro strings, which fit perfectly, except for the G, which was cut too short. For the G, I used a Stagg full size .045 nickel roundwound cut to length. This balances well with the Mikro strings.Let's do a string round up.
If you changed strings on your bass to something other than stock, what did you use, what gauges, and what did you think about the results - before and after.
Commence.
Note that Ibanez Mikro strings are NOT the same strings that come stock on a Mikro!
Custom / Bespoke - Pyramid Black Nylon tapewound strings. I have no idea what the gauge is - their what Max Junger (Director Pyramid) recommended.
They sound better than the D’Addario ETB92S (tapes) I have on my Fender Mustang, in fact I have now bought a set of Pyramid tapewound strings for my Mustang.
I also have a set of
Custom / Bespoke - Pyramid Chrome-Nickel Flatwound Strings .045 .065 .085 .105 - which I’ve not tried yet.
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BTW: the ghs flats were 45 - 105. The extra girth seems to really help with the floppiness of the short scale. The only short scale strings in this series were 40 - 100
Ha, on my end, I am usually using both at 100% for slap or when I play with a pick, something I love about that sound. Fingerstyle usually sees more tone rolled off and more bridge pickup in the mix. These are my two funk bass P/U configurations.
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Again, let me reiterate my lament that it's a crying shame that short scale bassists in general have to tolerate the lack of respect/choice from most string makers, regarding what little they offer us for our basses, and I'm talking about strings for ANY short scale bass [and for medium scale as well].
What you did to get your result is clear evidence of that situation, because obviously you would rather have just gone and bought proper length heavier gauge strings for any of your short scale basses, as would I and many other people.
Of course there are some folks who just use whatever they are offered, and/or who do not [yet] know the difference.
And there are a few who actually prefer 'floppy' strings on a short scale bass.
I suspect that this last group would also choose extra light strings if they played a long scale bass.
All that I would like to see is more choice, without looking around for who will do a special order.
In that regard, LaBella is pretty decent.
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