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The Sushi Box FX Secret Society

Is this the first month Deep Dish is on the build list for customers or did some go out last month?

When you kick the boost on in the Sunnday drive does it dirty up the tone with out too much of a volume jump or does it operate more like a Tone Hammer DI?
This is the first month Deep Dish is available, they weren't ready yet last month.

The boost on Sunnday Drive is placed before the drive, so it boosts gain without a huge volume increase. I'm considering making the boost completely independent, so you can run the boost without the drive on like you can with Lab Rat, but I haven't decided if I want to do that yet. Any thoughts?
 
This is the first month Deep Dish is available, they weren't ready yet last month.

The boost on Sunnday Drive is placed before the drive, so it boosts gain without a huge volume increase. I'm considering making the boost completely independent, so you can run the boost without the drive on like you can with Lab Rat, but I haven't decided if I want to do that yet. Any thoughts?
I suppose both options have their own merits, but for my usage, I prefer the gain boost with no or minimal increase in volume. I have other means to increase volume, and none to boost gain without increasing volume...
 
I suppose both options have their own merits, but for my usage, I prefer the gain boost with no or minimal increase in volume. I have other means to increase volume, and none to boost gain without increasing volume...

I agree. Both could have their place but my preference would be pre drive. I had a very nice fuzz pedal that had an independent post gain boost and it was so noisy it was useless.

Thinking I’m going to change my FEB order to either a Watson or Sunnday. Not sure which though!!!!!!!!!!!????????
 
I suppose both options have their own merits, but for my usage, I prefer the gain boost with no or minimal increase in volume. I have other means to increase volume, and none to boost gain without increasing volume...

I agree. Both could have their place but my preference would be pre drive. I had a very nice fuzz pedal that had an independent post gain boost and it was so noisy it was useless.
I should clarify my question. I'm not going to be changing the order of boost and drive, but currently the boost doesn't function without the drive. On the Lab Rat you still have the option of Drive by itself or Boost and Drive, but you can also turn off the drive and run the boost by itself. The Sunnday Drive boost would still be pre-drive to function as a gain boost when the drive is turned on, but when the drive is turned off you could still have the option to run the boost by itself as a single-knob tube gainstage, if that's something that would be useful on bass.
 
I should clarify my question. I'm not going to be changing the order of boost and drive, but currently the boost doesn't function without the drive. On the Lab Rat you still have the option of Drive by itself or Boost and Drive, but you can also turn off the drive and run the boost by itself. The Sunnday Drive boost would still be pre-drive to function as a gain boost when the drive is turned on, but when the drive is turned off you could still have the option to run the boost by itself as a single-knob tube gainstage, if that's something that would be useful on bass.

Oooohhhhhhhhhh. - yes. That could be cool.
 
I should clarify my question. I'm not going to be changing the order of boost and drive, but currently the boost doesn't function without the drive. On the Lab Rat you still have the option of Drive by itself or Boost and Drive, but you can also turn off the drive and run the boost by itself. The Sunnday Drive boost would still be pre-drive to function as a gain boost when the drive is turned on, but when the drive is turned off you could still have the option to run the boost by itself as a single-knob tube gainstage, if that's something that would be useful on bass.
So you would replace the bypass footswitch to have separate Boost and Drive FWs? But the pedal would be bypassed when both are off?
 
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So you would replace the bypass footswitch to have separate Boost and Drive FWs? But the pedal would be bypassed when both are off?
It already has separate Boost and Drive footswitches, but currently the Boost only works when the Drive is turned on. But correct, they would both be true bypass so when both are off the pedal would be completely bypassed.
 
It already has separate Boost and Drive footswitches, but currently the Boost only works when the Drive is turned on. But correct, they would both be true bypass so when both are off the pedal would be completely bypassed.
Ok, that was not clear to me looking at the pics. Well, that would be cool indeed - as well as your will to keep improving your designs!
 
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I'm looking forward to hearing some user feedback on the Deep Dish asap. I'm looking at you, @kranahan ;). Also, any chance @scubaduba will be doing a formal review as well? I know he provided some early feedback during the design phase.

I was doing some pre-recording practicing for some new tracks we're working on last night, and I can't help but feel there's a Deep Dish -shaped hole in my recording rig.

On that topic, is anyone aware of a stand-alone 12V wall wart that would work for powering the Deep Dish? I currently do not have a power supply that can supply 12 volts.
 
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I'm going to be sending my Deep Dish out to @scubaduba for a review (hopefully get it in the mail today), so he'll probably be the first person to give feedback.

I'm using a cheap $10 12V 1.5A power supply from Amazon. My pedals can take center-positive or center-negative, so your options are pretty open, just make sure you don't forget and try to daisy-chain a center-positive supply into a non-Sushi Box pedal.
 
I'm going to be sending my Deep Dish out to @scubaduba for a review (hopefully get it in the mail today), so he'll probably be the first person to give feedback.

I'm using a cheap $10 12V 1.5A power supply from Amazon. My pedals can take center-positive or center-negative, so your options are pretty open, just make sure you don't forget and try to daisy-chain a center-positive supply into a non-Sushi Box pedal.
Awesome! I was already thinking about going the cheap Amazon route. I'd love to get a Cioks or something, but can't afford to spring for both at once :p.

Pardon me for bombarding you with questions, but I'm just trying to understand the nuances of this compressor. From reading the Effectrode website, it looks like the Gain is post-compression makeup gain, and the Peak knob maybe adjusts both the threshold (decreasing) and the ratio (increasing) simultaneously?
 
Awesome! I was already thinking about going the cheap Amazon route. I'd love to get a Cioks or something, but can't afford to spring for both at once :p.

Pardon me for bombarding you with questions, but I'm just trying to understand the nuances of this compressor. From reading the Effectrode website, it looks like the Gain is post-compression makeup gain, and the Peak knob maybe adjusts both the threshold (decreasing) and the ratio (increasing) simultaneously?
I never tire of questions :) Gain is absolutely post-compression makeup gain, and based on my view of the schematic and my limited knowledge of compression, I would say that Peak Reduction acts more of a ratio whereas Knee acts more like a threshold, but I would be happy to be corrected by someone with more experience with compressors.
 
I never tire of questions :) Gain is absolutely post-compression makeup gain, and based on my view of the schematic and my limited knowledge of compression, I would say that Peak Reduction acts more of a ratio whereas Knee acts more like a threshold, but I would be happy to be corrected by someone with more experience with compressors.

I understand the difference between Soft Knee and Hard Knee (and much prefer soft knee from my experience). The Knee sort of affects the threshold, but more so the way the signal is affected at the threshold.

With Hard Knee, the threshold is fixed, and only the signal that crosses the threshold will be compressed. With Soft Knee, gentle compression begins slightly below the actual threshold, gradually increasing to full compression as the signal level crosses the threshold. This softens the reaction of the compressor, which gives a more "musical" response, and is great for gentle smoothing.

With my dbx 160a, I like to set it for Soft Knee and low-ish ratio, and then fine tune the threshold so that I'm just riding that tipping point on every note. It smooths things out really nicely without overly squashing dynamics. If you're after strict limiting, you'd probably want to adjust for a harder knee.

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What kind of magic is this??? :woot::woot:
I mean I don't know how technically you want it explained :P But I use a bridge rectifier on the input of the pedal so they can accept any polarity of input (theoretically including AC, but I haven't tried it). I use Schottky diodes so it has a smaller voltage drop than a typical rectifier, so even on solid-state pedals the drop in line voltage isn't noticeable on op-amp rails.

In the years I've been building pedals I think 95% of the repairs I've had to do have been because someone used the wrong polarity supply, and for a while I just did the typical polarity protection where if you use the wrong supply it just won't turn on but won't hurt anything. Then I thought, hey wouldn't it be nice if you just didn't have to worry about polarity at all?