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The Sushi Box FX Secret Society

Any plans for an SVT pre-amp pedal?

Also, just out curiosity, if the Slampegg is a 1:1 B15 pre-amp, why does it only have one 12AX7 vs the three in a B15?
Not currently, but it could happen down the road.

Without looking at the schematic for the B15, I’d guess that Tube 2 is for the second input, and Tube 3 is for the phase inverter/part of the power amp architecture.
Yup, exactly this.
 
So I just had a peak at the SVT Classic schematic, and it made me think of a question:

For new preamp designs, do you still want me to do mini-tube designs and X series, or do you want me to go straight to X series and see if I can just bring the cost down?
 
So I just had a peak at the SVT Classic schematic, and it made me think of a question:

For new preamp designs, do you still want me to do mini-tube designs and X series, or do you want me to go straight to X series and see if I can just bring the cost down?
I think there's merits to both. I personally find a 9V supply much more convenient and universal, even if it is a higher current draw.

And, in my past experience, I've never found tube rolling to have that profound of an effect. Maybe that's just the particular amps I've owned, but it's never been worth the effort or expense any time I've tried. The only time I’ve liked it is when substituting lower gain tubes like 5751, 12AU7, etc. in a 12AX7 spot.
 
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So I just had a peak at the SVT Classic schematic, and it made me think of a question:

For new preamp designs, do you still want me to do mini-tube designs and X series, or do you want me to go straight to X series and see if I can just bring the cost down?

I'd personally go for X boxes (I'm on the March list for a SlampeggX) as I do like the versatility of rolling the tube, and I already have 12V power supplies.

The 9V mini-tube boxes have their appeal, too, though.

Overall, you'll probably sell more boxes if you keep offering both.
 
I think there's merits to both. I personally find a 9V supply much more convenient and universal, even if it is a higher current draw.

And, in my past experience, I've never found tube rolling to have that profound of an effect. Maybe that's just the particular amps I've owned, but it's never been worth the effort or expense any time I've tried. The only time I’ve liked it is when substituting lower gain tubes like 5751, 12AU7, etc. in a 12AX7 spot.
Tube rolling isn't the biggest benefit but the ability to replace old tubes yourself without paying to have new ones installed is pretty nice imho
 
Tube rolling isnt the biggest bennefit but the ability to repace old tubes yourself without paing to have new ones installed is pretty nice imho
That’s true, but I can count on one hand the number of preamp tubes I’ve actually had to replace in 20 years of playing bass and guitar, across many different amps.
 
I keep starting a reply then more people chime in, I guess I should wait :p

Intermediate thoughts though:

Since I can fit a single 12AX7 in the same size enclosure as the top-jack mini-tube builds it's been great for keeping pedalboard real estate. The dual 12AX7 builds (like Deep Dish and soon Dr Wattson X) need to be a little bigger, but still reasonable all things considered.

So power supply has been a big thing I've been thinking about. The convenience of 12AX7 is weighed down a bit by the inconvenience of a 12V supply over a 9V. I'm currently looking into an option for stepping the input voltage up to 12V internally so you can run it on anything from 9-15V and it will run the same. This would allow 12AX7 tubes, 9V input, and lower current than mini tubes.

I don't have any plans to discontinue the mini-tube builds, but it was a question I've been wanting to ask.
 
So power supply has been a big thing I've been thinking about. The convenience of 12AX7 is weighed down a bit by the inconvenience of a 12V supply over a 9V. I'm currently looking into an option for stepping the input voltage up to 12V internally so you can run it on anything from 9-15V and it will run the same. This would allow 12AX7 tubes, 9V input, and lower current than mini tubes
This is the way.
 
If the X series starts to really dominate, it might warrant an evolution toward them becoming the new standard, and the mini versions getting literally dubbed as Mini.

And it may warrant such practices as allotting a certain max number of slots to X or Mini pedals if that can ease the workload or cut expenses somehow.

I do personally love the mini pedals, but don't have the capital (or power infrastructure!) to run many pedals that pull even X series current, so can't say I'm any kind of important opinion bearer.
 
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I keep starting a reply then more people chime in, I guess I should wait :p

Intermediate thoughts though:

Since I can fit a single 12AX7 in the same size enclosure as the top-jack mini-tube builds it's been great for keeping pedalboard real estate. The dual 12AX7 builds (like Deep Dish and soon Dr Wattson X) need to be a little bigger, but still reasonable all things considered.

So power supply has been a big thing I've been thinking about. The convenience of 12AX7 is weighed down a bit by the inconvenience of a 12V supply over a 9V. I'm currently looking into an option for stepping the input voltage up to 12V internally so you can run it on anything from 9-15V and it will run the same. This would allow 12AX7 tubes, 9V input, and lower current than mini tubes.

I don't have any plans to discontinue the mini-tube builds, but it was a question I've been wanting to ask.
18 volt would be nice too because then you could use current doublers
 
More headroom is not a bad thing tho either

More headroom isn't a bad thing either. But I get the issue of it being potentially spendy too
Input voltage doesn't affect headroom on these, you'll still get 200-220V on the plates regardless of what input you give it. You can actually feed it 5V (please don't) and it will still give 220V on the tube.
 
I'd vote for X series over the mini-tubes. I'm really digging this Slampegg mini, but it actually involves a current doubler as an extra step for me to power it. I'd have to dig through the thread to find what Sushi posted as current draw for the X Series, but my Zuma has a switch for 12V on a couple outlets that provides 375mA, and I seem to remember that being enough, so it would eliminate a step. Not like the current doubler is that much of a hassle though. But experimenting with tube rolling is something I'd probably explore as well.

5sg.