Honestly I don't have an answer for thatSeems pretty simple (in my limited knowledge of pedal innards), so......... Why isn't this standard practice on all pedals?
5sg.
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Honestly I don't have an answer for thatSeems pretty simple (in my limited knowledge of pedal innards), so......... Why isn't this standard practice on all pedals?
5sg.
Yeah, I'm going to ask this too. Is there a bigger con that effects other companies differently? I'm going to assume that most already use pole protection, but its never stated. If you could do the same for incorrect voltage input on top, that would be a HUGE plus. I always wonder if the owner before me accidently ran 18 volts on a 9 volt pedal and cooked the components, sometimes with new gear its hard to tell at firstSeems pretty simple (in my limited knowledge of pedal innards), so......... Why isn't this standard practice on all pedals?
5sg.
Overvoltage protection is a little trickier, but there are cheaper ways to do it as well. Currently any of my pedals can take up to 15V without damage, but it would obviously nice to just say "plug in whatever the hell you want, should be fine." I should note though, currently the single 6N21B pedals (PA, LU, LR, Slampegg) can only operate on 9V as they overheat with a higher supply, but they still won't be damaged, they go into thermal shutdown until they cool off. So when I have some time (never know, it could happenYeah, I'm going to ask this too. Is there a bigger con that effects other companies differently? I'm going to assume that most already use pole protection, but its never stated. If you could do the same for incorrect voltage input on top, that would be a HUGE plus. I always wonder if the owner before me accidently ran 18 volts on a 9 volt pedal and cooked the components, sometimes with new gear its hard to tell at first
Yeah, we've all been haunted by the EHX 3.5mm lol, lost so many of those wall warts back in the dayOvervoltage protection is a little trickier, but there are cheaper ways to do it as well. Currently any of my pedals can take up to 15V without damage, but it would obviously nice to just say "plug in whatever the hell you want, should be fine." I should note though, currently the single 6N21B pedals (PA, LU, LR, Slampegg) can only operate on 9V as they overheat with a higher supply, but they still won't be damaged, they go into thermal shutdown until they cool off. So when I have some time (never know, it could happen) I'll have to look into overvoltage protection.
EDIT: One thing I did forget about, for really high current pedals you need beefier diodes to handle the current. I use the same diodes in all my pedals for the polarity protection, and the only one that ever had problems was Wrecking Ball, because it pulls A LOT of current and was frying diodes. But typical commercial pedals, I can't think of a reason they would choose not to do it, besides wanting to sell you their adapter and insist that you use it.
hahaha right? Me too. But which one do I want FIRST?
I would love that on my Sunnday! Do you think you will know during January if you will do this? Else I would have to swap a March order into my Feb slot to wait for it.I should clarify my question. I'm not going to be changing the order of boost and drive, but currently the boost doesn't function without the drive. On the Lab Rat you still have the option of Drive by itself or Boost and Drive, but you can also turn off the drive and run the boost by itself. The Sunnday Drive boost would still be pre-drive to function as a gain boost when the drive is turned on, but when the drive is turned off you could still have the option to run the boost by itself as a single-knob tube gainstage, if that's something that would be useful on bass.
Honestly the reason I was asking about it now is because I want to start doing it in JanuaryI would love that on my Sunnday! Do you think you will know during January if you will do this? Else I would have to swap a March order into my Feb slot to wait for it.
I should clarify my question. I'm not going to be changing the order of boost and drive, but currently the boost doesn't function without the drive. On the Lab Rat you still have the option of Drive by itself or Boost and Drive, but you can also turn off the drive and run the boost by itself. The Sunnday Drive boost would still be pre-drive to function as a gain boost when the drive is turned on, but when the drive is turned off you could still have the option to run the boost by itself as a single-knob tube gainstage, if that's something that would be useful on bass.
One’s purple, one’s black.Slampegg Mini vs X comparison coming later tonight:
View attachment 4116040
Micro tube version vs regular full size swappable tube “X” version.One’s purple, one’s black.
Their foot switches are at opposite ends.
Two toggles, three toggles.
What am I missing?
I mean clearly one is upside downOne’s purple, one’s black.
Their foot switches are at opposite ends.
Two toggles, three toggles.
What am I missing?
The bokeh on the black one.One’s purple, one’s black.
Their foot switches are at opposite ends.
Two toggles, three toggles.
What am I missing?
Slampegg Mini vs X comparison coming later tonight:
View attachment 4116040
Alright. I sat down and got an hour in through headphones. Our little one is teething big time so I have to tend to him now.
Here are my initial impressions:
Mini:
- A little more compressed sound. I find this to be inherent with the mini tube. It’s not a bad thing though.
- A little tighter/punchier sounding.
- Bright switch - minimal change but it’s there.
- 9V / 470 ma
X:
- A little smoother. It feels more open.
- A little more bass on tap. A tad more heft on notes.
- More gain
- Can change tube, if needed
- 12V / 350 ma
You can definitely tell the two are related. The more I play both, the more they start sounding like one another.. You will not be disappointed with either choice. I can guarantee that.
I’ll try to write something more in depth in the coming weeks. I’m curious to hear opinions from other Slampegg Mini/X owners.
Without looking at the schematic for the B15, I’d guess that Tube 2 is for the second input, and Tube 3 is for the phase inverter/part of the power amp architecture.Any plans for an SVT pre-amp pedal?
Also, just out curiosity, if the Slampegg is a 1:1 B15 pre-amp, why does it only have one 12AX7 vs the three in a B15?