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The Sushi Box FX Secret Society

Seems pretty simple (in my limited knowledge of pedal innards), so......... Why isn't this standard practice on all pedals?

5sg.
Honestly I don't have an answer for that :p There was a boutique company I remember hearing about a few years ago that did it (can't remember the name), but I don't know why more don't. Diodes aren't expensive, like literally 2 or 3 cents, and big companies buying in bulk can get them for even less. You need 4 of them for the bridge rectifier, but they don't take up much space, especially if you're using SMD. I don't know why it's isn't standard practice on a lot of devices, but I wish it was.
 
Seems pretty simple (in my limited knowledge of pedal innards), so......... Why isn't this standard practice on all pedals?

5sg.
Yeah, I'm going to ask this too. Is there a bigger con that effects other companies differently? I'm going to assume that most already use pole protection, but its never stated. If you could do the same for incorrect voltage input on top, that would be a HUGE plus. I always wonder if the owner before me accidently ran 18 volts on a 9 volt pedal and cooked the components, sometimes with new gear its hard to tell at first
 
Yeah, I'm going to ask this too. Is there a bigger con that effects other companies differently? I'm going to assume that most already use pole protection, but its never stated. If you could do the same for incorrect voltage input on top, that would be a HUGE plus. I always wonder if the owner before me accidently ran 18 volts on a 9 volt pedal and cooked the components, sometimes with new gear its hard to tell at first
Overvoltage protection is a little trickier, but there are cheaper ways to do it as well. Currently any of my pedals can take up to 15V without damage, but it would obviously nice to just say "plug in whatever the hell you want, should be fine." I should note though, currently the single 6N21B pedals (PA, LU, LR, Slampegg) can only operate on 9V as they overheat with a higher supply, but they still won't be damaged, they go into thermal shutdown until they cool off. So when I have some time (never know, it could happen :p) I'll have to look into overvoltage protection.

EDIT: One thing I did forget about, for really high current pedals you need beefier diodes to handle the current. I use the same diodes in all my pedals for the polarity protection, and the only one that ever had problems was Wrecking Ball, because it pulls A LOT of current and was frying diodes. But typical commercial pedals, I can't think of a reason they would choose not to do it, besides wanting to sell you their adapter and insist that you use it.
 
Overvoltage protection is a little trickier, but there are cheaper ways to do it as well. Currently any of my pedals can take up to 15V without damage, but it would obviously nice to just say "plug in whatever the hell you want, should be fine." I should note though, currently the single 6N21B pedals (PA, LU, LR, Slampegg) can only operate on 9V as they overheat with a higher supply, but they still won't be damaged, they go into thermal shutdown until they cool off. So when I have some time (never know, it could happen :p) I'll have to look into overvoltage protection.

EDIT: One thing I did forget about, for really high current pedals you need beefier diodes to handle the current. I use the same diodes in all my pedals for the polarity protection, and the only one that ever had problems was Wrecking Ball, because it pulls A LOT of current and was frying diodes. But typical commercial pedals, I can't think of a reason they would choose not to do it, besides wanting to sell you their adapter and insist that you use it.
Yeah, we've all been haunted by the EHX 3.5mm lol, lost so many of those wall warts back in the day
 
I should clarify my question. I'm not going to be changing the order of boost and drive, but currently the boost doesn't function without the drive. On the Lab Rat you still have the option of Drive by itself or Boost and Drive, but you can also turn off the drive and run the boost by itself. The Sunnday Drive boost would still be pre-drive to function as a gain boost when the drive is turned on, but when the drive is turned off you could still have the option to run the boost by itself as a single-knob tube gainstage, if that's something that would be useful on bass.
I would love that on my Sunnday! Do you think you will know during January if you will do this? Else I would have to swap a March order into my Feb slot to wait for it.
 
I would love that on my Sunnday! Do you think you will know during January if you will do this? Else I would have to swap a March order into my Feb slot to wait for it.
Honestly the reason I was asking about it now is because I want to start doing it in January :P I wasn't satisfied with how the offboard wiring looked so I redesigned the boards to swap things around, and it's way more convenient to wire it up like that now.
 
Slampegg Mini vs X comparison coming later tonight:
371FAC8E-E035-42CC-9381-830C8B1FC07A.jpeg
 
I should clarify my question. I'm not going to be changing the order of boost and drive, but currently the boost doesn't function without the drive. On the Lab Rat you still have the option of Drive by itself or Boost and Drive, but you can also turn off the drive and run the boost by itself. The Sunnday Drive boost would still be pre-drive to function as a gain boost when the drive is turned on, but when the drive is turned off you could still have the option to run the boost by itself as a single-knob tube gainstage, if that's something that would be useful on bass.

Being able to be able to use the boost without drive would be cool, but it isn't a deal breaker for me personally.

Ideally I want to be able to kick on the boost, to saturate the front end but be able to not have a huge volume jump (or have it controllable) in overall output. Like having a drive pedal in my Preamp pedal. The biggest complaint about the Aguilar THDI was you had a footswitch to kick in the extra gain stage, but it was completely unusable in this way because of the volume jump, so it probably shouldn't have been on a footswitch.

Looking at the layout of the pedal, it won't be easy to put an attenuator after the gain stage without putting a stacked knob somewhere. But knowing how you weave your magic, I'm sure there is a way.

I have a spot in Feb which I was going to use for a Deep Dish but I might hold off on that as I have the LA-1A already. It will be either a Slampegg or Sunnday Drive I reckon. Maybe a Slampegg first, and see how the design of the Sunnday Drive evolves.
 
One’s purple, one’s black.
Their foot switches are at opposite ends.
Two toggles, three toggles.

What am I missing?
I mean clearly one is upside down :P

But based on general feedback I decided the Bright switch present in the original mini-tube version was too subtle to be useful, with some people also reporting a loud popping when it was switched on, so it was left off the 12AX7 tube version.
 
Alright. I sat down and got an hour in through headphones. Our little one is teething big time so I have to tend to him now.

Here are my initial impressions:

Mini:
- A little more compressed sound. I find this to be inherent with the mini tube. It’s not a bad thing though.
- A little tighter/punchier sounding.
- Bright switch - minimal change but it’s there.
- 9V / 470 ma

X:
- A little smoother. It feels more open.
- A little more bass on tap. A tad more heft on notes.
- More gain
- Can change tube, if needed
- 12V / 350 ma

You can definitely tell the two are related. The more I play both, the more they start sounding like one another.. You will not be disappointed with either choice. I can guarantee that.

I’ll try to write something more in depth in the coming weeks. I’m curious to hear opinions from other Slampegg Mini/X owners.
 
Slampegg Mini vs X comparison coming later tonight:
View attachment 4116040
Alright. I sat down and got an hour in through headphones. Our little one is teething big time so I have to tend to him now.

Here are my initial impressions:

Mini:
- A little more compressed sound. I find this to be inherent with the mini tube. It’s not a bad thing though.
- A little tighter/punchier sounding.
- Bright switch - minimal change but it’s there.
- 9V / 470 ma

X:
- A little smoother. It feels more open.
- A little more bass on tap. A tad more heft on notes.
- More gain
- Can change tube, if needed
- 12V / 350 ma

You can definitely tell the two are related. The more I play both, the more they start sounding like one another.. You will not be disappointed with either choice. I can guarantee that.

I’ll try to write something more in depth in the coming weeks. I’m curious to hear opinions from other Slampegg Mini/X owners.

thanks!! Good luck with the little one, been there. :)
 
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Any plans for an SVT pre-amp pedal?

Also, just out curiosity, if the Slampegg is a 1:1 B15 pre-amp, why does it only have one 12AX7 vs the three in a B15?
Without looking at the schematic for the B15, I’d guess that Tube 2 is for the second input, and Tube 3 is for the phase inverter/part of the power amp architecture.