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The Sushi Box FX Secret Society

If you want to tweak it a bit,, I would cut those resistor leads down to almost nothing, so the chance of them shorting/touching anything else is basically impossible. Only thing to be careful there is not scorching the resistors since your soldering iron would be so close.
That, and hestshrink on the resistor-wire connection if you have some so it doesn't get too close to the rear cover of the box. Or electrical tape works too.
 
I just had to tweak something in the C.A.B. M+ (it was emitting a high pitched whine which I've been going back and forth with Two Notes). While I was doing that, I was obviously switching between the P-15 and the Slampegg Twin. If you want that B-15 sound and don't want to shell out the dough for the P-15, either of the Slampeggs (regular or X) IMO are worth the money over the Fliptop and probably anything else out there. I'm still impressed with what Sushi could do at a fraction of the cost.
 
Ooooh you're gonna love that thing!

Also, I'm quite proud of my purple PA with green knobs (very bruise-y if you're talking about a full-on sprain), but it's finally getting some serious challengers. We're making the most of this golden age of customized SB pedals, that's for sure lol

I have a purple PA with green knobs and green LED in the March slot. Can't wait to see it!
 
We may have discussed already, but what kind of specs do we have for the Echosaurus?

I know the Echorec had something like 300ms delay time available, and used a series of programs to position the heads via a couple of knobs. And, interestingly, a tube input gainstage, but 50mA is pretty nice for a digital pedal lol.

I imagine all those settings can be replicated via the head switches and full-range delay time knob, and Age adds interesting range of results.

Not being familiar with a multi-head delay aside from some preset patterns in the Vox DelayLab.... does each head respond at some percentage of the total delay time?

Finally, does maxing the swell control fall into analog-style self-oscillation territory?

(probably needless to say... someone's thinking about new p3d@15)
 
It's hard to tell colors in pictures, can you confirm the colors of the bands on the 68k resistor? It's hard to tell if the 4th one is brown or red.
They look red to me, or you mean the brown next to the blue on the left?
20D73DC2-14C1-4543-B0DF-E975825FB834.jpeg
 
We may have discussed already, but what kind of specs do we have for the Echosaurus?

I know the Echorec had something like 300ms delay time available, and used a series of programs to position the heads via a couple of knobs. And, interestingly, a tube input gainstage, but 50mA is pretty nice for a digital pedal lol.

I imagine all those settings can be replicated via the head switches and full-range delay time knob, and Age adds interesting range of results.

Not being familiar with a multi-head delay aside from some preset patterns in the Vox DelayLab.... does each head respond at some percentage of the total delay time?

Finally, does maxing the swell control fall into analog-style self-oscillation territory?

(probably needless to say... someone's thinking about new p3d@15)
I haven't measured the max delay time and no longer own an oscilloscope, but I'll have to figure that out. If you're talking about the Catalinbread Echorec pedal that definitely doesn't have a tube stage in it, though obviously the original Binson oil can unit was tube.

You're correct on the heads though, each progressing head gives a percentage of the total delay time, so if you're only using the first head you only get short times, and if you're only using the 4th head you only get long times. Using more than one at a time can get some neat syncopated rhythms, I like using 2 and 4 together, setting 2 for the actual time I want and 4 will effectively double that, giving a neat thickness to the sound.

Maxing swell when the mix is up a bit will definitely pull it into self-oscillation.
 
They look red to me but...
View attachment 4188217
That definitely looks red in that picture which means they are 68k, so you have the right values, and they appear to be hooked up correctly. Maybe double check the solder joints? If you want a more dramatic drop you can put two 33k in parallel (16.5k equivalent) to ground which would drop the volume quite a bit more.
 
That definitely looks red in that picture which means they are 68k, so you have the right values, and they appear to be hooked up correctly. Maybe double check the solder joints? If you want a more dramatic drop you can put two 33k in parallel (16.5k equivalent) to ground which would drop the volume quite a bit more.
So double the 33k on the same holes? Will try this weekend. Otherwise... pedal might fly overseas :)
 
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