What about a GK Legacy 800 with speaker emulation and a DI output?
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The Sushi Box FX Secret Society
- Thread starter kranahan
- Start date
What about a GK Legacy 800 with speaker emulation and a DI output?
Honestly ? The 800 is probably my least favorite GK. I vastly prefer the variable contour and presence. The baked in full on contour never did it for me... I wouldn't require the DI (will use a Finally at the end of the day). Speaker emulation is a maybe... Input gain, Deep Switch, Contour, Presence, Bass, Low Mids, Hi Mids, Treble, Master... and effects loop with wet/dry blend might be a thing too... Moslty it's the clean, clear Hammer of the Honky Tonk Gods* thing that GK's can do like nobody else I would be after.
* Thanks Bill Kirchen!
I asked specifically about the Legacy since I'm doing exactly that as a special project for someone. The Legacy is his main amp, but he wants that tone in a compact rig. I'm removing everything from the amp that he doesn't need (including the contour switch, which is useless, and also the whole drive channel) and adding a couple things that he would find more useful. I've been working on it here and there for a few months, trying to have it ready by Spring.
It's so hard for me to get caught up in the newest hotness because of how many stories there are like this. If I'm good enough I can dig great tone out of whatever strikes my fancy. I'm not good enough, so even great gear is gonna sound like a decent player with decent gear and no better
.There's enough great gear around that I don't need to leap when the shiny thing comes skipping across the surface.
Yup, it's been weird. The guy that built the pedal for St. Vincent has released them to the public for sale for $350. I listened to the demos, and it sounds fine, but not the kind of tone I would pay out the nose for.It's so hard for me to get caught up in the newest hotness because of how many stories there are like this. If I'm good enough I can dig great tone out of whatever strikes my fancy. I'm not good enough, so even great gear is gonna sound like a decent player with decent gear and no better
That being said if enough people ask for something I end up doing it, so my prototype boards for the Decade preamp will be here in a couple weeks.
When I was a touring pro Peavey bass amps, speakers and cabs were my weapons of choice for sound and day in day out reliability all around the world, just as they were before and a long time after. I did use other amps on occasion but Peavey amps were always there in reserve.
I still think the Bandit and Special 130 are some of the best guitar amps ever.
I still think the Bandit and Special 130 are some of the best guitar amps ever.
Yes. I bought a Peavey MK IV in 1979. It was my only amp. A rock solid beast of a daily driver that went to every jam, gig, rehearsal and at home practice until it died about nine or ten years ago. I used that as an excuse to get a new amp.
This is a heap of interesting comments. What comes around...
and it's time that the late 80s-90s digital studio preamp sounds start creeping back into music. There were some really great bass tones that simply don't exist in the market today. Enough to drive this thread to 1,000 pages.
and it's time that the late 80s-90s digital studio preamp sounds start creeping back into music. There were some really great bass tones that simply don't exist in the market today. Enough to drive this thread to 1,000 pages.
So is this a good time to mention that my homebrew IR loader prototype will be able to do a lot more than just load IRs? I can totally shift gears and go into digital preamps.
Yup, rather than be at the mercy of the current IR loader module for pricing, stock, and shipping, my goal is to design my own IR loader that can be part of the board rather than something I have to plug into it afterward. It will be easier to fabricate, it will look cleaner, and in the long run will be less expensive. Plus it gives me the added benefit of being able to change things, which isn't really an option dealing with a third-party product.
As a bonus, it gives me the chance to step out of my comfort zone and learn new things that I've always been embarrassed for not knowing yet
The Space Heater.
What can I say that hasn't been said?
Such a simple pedal, but so beautifully executed.
And the HW sounds even better (to me)
Although the caveat I'll add is,
If I want to "de-sterilize" an SS amp, regular SH.
If I want to de-sterilize my SS amp and make it sound huge?
HWSH.
What a day! First Source Audio announces an all analog preamp, now Sushibox announces a digital preamp. As if my world wasn’t topsy turvey enough already.
I mean I wasn't intending to announce a digital preamp
But the processing power of this chip is such that it could do some neat preamp-ish things. It's WAY more capable than the chip that powers Echosaurus/Robot Butterfly. I'll play with the board when it comes (it's in the same order as the Preavey Decade pre, so probably 2 weeks or so) and see if I can make it sound like a preamp and let everyone know how it goes.
I'd love to know how you work on project like this in the long run, although I suppose it's a little bit secret. Do you work on a small circuit like the ones you make for pedal, or your prototype are bigger than pedal boards? When you test a circuit, do you have to put it inside a pedal box each time you want to play it and take it off again to make changes, or do you plug your cables directly on the green board? I wonder if a prototype looks more or less like a pedal basically?…
The answer to all of those questions is "It depends"
For low risk designs like tube preamps, I generally go straight for pedal sized boards. There's not likely to be anything weird in a tube preamp, so with simple circuits it isn't a question of "will it work?" it's a question of "will I like this?" So I usually go straight for a black circuit board in the right size and shape to go into a pedal, as sometimes the first version of a board is good enough to go without changes. When I do the initial test of a new design I follow the "rock before you box" rule, I test the board outside of the box with jacks dangling on the wires and no footswitch attached, remove as many variables as possible until you find out that the circuit works as expected.
Higher risk designs it still depends. I just got an order of boards today, one of which is a prototype for the headphone amp circuit that I'm considering eventually using in Gondwana. Even if it works and I like it I'm not likely to sell just a headphone amp, but I may want to use it myself. So I designed the board such that it will fit into a small pedal box, but I left it as a green board (the boards cost the same to make, but the green ones get built faster so I usually prototype in green; black takes an extra 1-2 days).
For complicated designs, like Gondwana and also like the GK-esque preamp, I like to take a crawl-walk-run approach. I'll often isolate one or two aspects of the design and build that into a board. For the first phase I usually don't care about size and shape, just about it being usable and testable. The IR loader board I posted above is a perfect example. I looked at the maximum size the board manufacturer can make without additional size fees and worked from there, ending up with a 2.4" x 3" rectangular board. I put mounting holes on the corners so I can attach standoffs to hold it level on a flat surface, but I have no intention of putting that board in a box, it is strictly for trying out the DSP chip and seeing what it can do, and determining how much extra circuitry I need to make it work.
The next phase I'll usually make it the form factor to fit into a box to get a "working prototype". By the 'walk' stage I know the circuit basically works and I'm usually trying out adding new features and seeing how well things fit in the box, as well as how easy it is to operate in the box. This is where I left off with Gondwana, I have it in a box, it works, I'm trying to figure out how easy it is to use and what else it needs, how big the end product will be, how well it plays with different instruments/pedals/amplifiers/interfaces.
The 'run' phase is generally the final one (until someone asks for changes) that will go into production, so black circuit boards in the right size and shape for a pedal. By that point I should have things figured out enough that I can be comfortable selling it.
As I said tube preamps and drives and stuff are usually just a straight shot, they'll most likely work (unless I make a stupid mistake) and I'm just trying to decide if they sound good. The crawl-walk-run has only happened so far with Gondwana, the GK-ish all-in-one box, and a design from 2018 before anyone knew who I was that I called Omni Box, which eventually shed some features and became Particle Accelerator.
I’m glad you went to school! I love sushi!The answer to all of those questions is "It depends"
For low risk designs like tube preamps, I generally go straight for pedal sized boards. There's not likely to be anything weird in a tube preamp, so with simple circuits it isn't a question of "will it work?" it's a question of "will I like this?" So I usually go straight for a black circuit board in the right size and shape to go into a pedal, as sometimes the first version of a board is good enough to go without changes. When I do the initial test of a new design I follow the "rock before you box" rule, I test the board outside of the box with jacks dangling on the wires and no footswitch attached, remove as many variables as possible until you find out that the circuit works as expected.
Higher risk designs it still depends. I just got an order of boards today, one of which is a prototype for the headphone amp circuit that I'm considering eventually using in Gondwana. Even if it works and I like it I'm not likely to sell just a headphone amp, but I may want to use it myself. So I designed the board such that it will fit into a small pedal box, but I left it as a green board (the boards cost the same to make, but the green ones get built faster so I usually prototype in green; black takes an extra 1-2 days).
For complicated designs, like Gondwana and also like the GK-esque preamp, I like to take a crawl-walk-run approach. I'll often isolate one or two aspects of the design and build that into a board. For the first phase I usually don't care about size and shape, just about it being usable and testable. The IR loader board I posted above is a perfect example. I looked at the maximum size the board manufacturer can make without additional size fees and worked from there, ending up with a 2.4" x 3" rectangular board. I put mounting holes on the corners so I can attach standoffs to hold it level on a flat surface, but I have no intention of putting that board in a box, it is strictly for trying out the DSP chip and seeing what it can do, and determining how much extra circuitry I need to make it work.
The next phase I'll usually make it the form factor to fit into a box to get a "working prototype". By the 'walk' stage I know the circuit basically works and I'm usually trying out adding new features and seeing how well things fit in the box, as well as how easy it is to operate in the box. This is where I left off with Gondwana, I have it in a box, it works, I'm trying to figure out how easy it is to use and what else it needs, how big the end product will be, how well it plays with different instruments/pedals/amplifiers/interfaces.
The 'run' phase is generally the final one (until someone asks for changes) that will go into production, so black circuit boards in the right size and shape for a pedal. By that point I should have things figured out enough that I can be comfortable selling it.
As I said tube preamps and drives and stuff are usually just a straight shot, they'll most likely work (unless I make a stupid mistake) and I'm just trying to decide if they sound good. The crawl-walk-run has only happened so far with Gondwana, the GK-ish all-in-one box, and a design from 2018 before anyone knew who I was that I called Omni Box, which eventually shed some features and became Particle Accelerator.
