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The Sushi Box FX Secret Society

Nice setup, iem playing takes some adjustments and a really good monitor mixer.
Thank you! I’ve been using IEM on and off for about 15 years and just recently “upgraded” for my church gig. I am used to having control over my own mix, now I am at the mercy of the sound guy’s aux send.
 
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I’ve seen some people posting about using two of these pedals or more at a time they start having issues with noise. Is that a common issue? If so is it something a gate would fix? I’m thinking about the Finally and maybe Dr Watson and was wondering if that would be an issue and how I could remedy it
Like anything else in the pedal world, some devices just don’t play well with other devices.

I’ve had EHX pedals that didn’t play nice with my Tech 21 stuff. I had to rearrange and figure out what works to get the best signal to noise ratio out of that board at the time. And neither of those pedals had tubes.

Best bet is before you tack everything down nice and pretty, place the pedals in an order that gives you the best tone and lowest noise. You may have to compromise, we all have. There are no rules and what works for one person may not work for you. It’s a journey, but a fun and rewarding one when you get it all sorted out.

Good Luck
 
Like anything else in the pedal world, some devices just don’t play well with other devices.

I’ve had EHX pedals that didn’t play nice with my Tech 21 stuff. I had to rearrange and figure out what works to get the best signal to noise ratio out of that board at the time. And neither of those pedals had tubes.

Best bet is before you tack everything down nice and pretty, place the pedals in an order that gives you the best tone and lowest noise. You may have to compromise, we all have. There are no rules and what works for one person may not work for you. It’s a journey, but a fun and rewarding one when you get it all sorted out.

Good Luck
I will also add that I had more audible noise when my Black Eye was placed directly over where the Cioks DC7 was mounted on the bottom of the board, which makes me think the pedals may be susceptible to whatever interference the Cioks puts out, so that's another thing to look at.
 
...stacked with an SMD pedal, which is weird because the two of them have different oscillator frequencies (both well above audio range) so I would expect less noise overlap in that case

Sum and difference noise? If the two oscillators are close enough that their difference lands in the audio range, could that result in the noise folks are hearing?
I don't have a pair to test this theory, but seems plausible. Would potentially explain why a buffer between the two sometimes works (if the buffer filters out the otherwise inaudible first pedals' oscillator, there wouldn't be any 'difference' frequency)
 
Sum and difference noise? If the two oscillators are close enough that their difference lands in the audio range, could that result in the noise folks are hearing?
I don't have a pair to test this theory, but seems plausible. Would potentially explain why a buffer between the two sometimes works (if the buffer filters out the otherwise inaudible first pedals' oscillator, there wouldn't be any 'difference' frequency)

Yes, the resultant signal is a heterodyne. It could be very elusive, depending on staging and buffering, as noted.
 
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I’ve seen some people posting about using two of these pedals or more at a time they start having issues with noise. Is that a common issue? If so is it something a gate would fix? I’m thinking about the Finally and maybe Dr Watson and was wondering if that would be an issue and how I could remedy it

Like anything else in the pedal world, some devices just don’t play well with other devices.

I’ve had EHX pedals that didn’t play nice with my Tech 21 stuff. I had to rearrange and figure out what works to get the best signal to noise ratio out of that board at the time. And neither of those pedals had tubes.

Best bet is before you tack everything down nice and pretty, place the pedals in an order that gives you the best tone and lowest noise. You may have to compromise, we all have. There are no rules and what works for one person may not work for you. It’s a journey, but a fun and rewarding one when you get it all sorted out.

Good Luck
As my haggard friend @FronTowardEnemy stated that happens with different combinations of pedals and is all a part of the fun and frustration of the pedal game, since there are infinite numbers of combinations possible there is no way for builders to avoid this all together, much less those of us creating those [problems] beautiful combinations hence the bourgeoning side [hustle] lines of signal loop splitters, isolators, switchers and isolated power supplies ~ which may or may not fix the issue(s).
 
Question about the Deep Dish (just scored a used one). What is are the pin diameter and polarity. I assume it's center
-ve but the standard connectors from my power block are too tight. Also, is there a meaningful difference between running it at 9V vs 12? Thanks.
 
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Question about the Deep Dish (just scored a used one). What is are the pin diameter and polarity. I assume it's center
-ve but the standard connectors from my power block are too tight. Also, is there a meaningful difference between running it at 9V vs 12? Thanks.

Polarity? Doesn't matter.
12v vs. 9v? Doesn't matter :)

Deep Dish Compressor – Sushi Box FX
 
good people,

last week just recorded second mssv album w/the handwired space heater AHEAD of both direct box (rndi) and amp (ampeg rb-112 rocket) and the knobman told me it was kickin like kato. the guitarman/bandboss said also "makes more wide" signaling he was way into it... 'politics of bass' in my mind is _us_ making _them_ looking good - WAY into that.

on bass, watt

mike watt's hoot page
 
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Sum and difference noise? If the two oscillators are close enough that their difference lands in the audio range, could that result in the noise folks are hearing?
I don't have a pair to test this theory, but seems plausible. Would potentially explain why a buffer between the two sometimes works (if the buffer filters out the otherwise inaudible first pedals' oscillator, there wouldn't be any 'difference' frequency)
That's an excellent point, could very well be, I didn't even think of that. If that's the case then better filtering of the high voltage line could remove enough of the noise to put it back below audible levels. Either that or run SMD and HW pedals at the same voltage to get the oscillation frequency the same or at least close enough to bring the difference below audible levels. Something to think about/keep me awake at night.
 
good people,

last week just recorded second mssv album w/the handwired space heater AHEAD of both direct box (rndi) and amp (ampeg rb-112 rocket) and the knobman told me it was kickin like kato. the guitarman/bandboss said also "makes more wide" signaling he was way into it... 'politics of bass' in my mind is _us_ making _them_ looking good - WAY into that.

on bass, watt

mike watt's hoot page

Nice to hear I have HW Space Heater coming with May Batch
3 Video's from MSSV site sound great with nice Bass Tone.

Is this you with one of my Favorites Iggy?

 
I got my hands on a Slampegg bee pre lately. I found it used from another bassman. I have been playtesting with it for 2 weeks now. I got to say I really like it but I'm still trying to figure out the Bright switch. I can't hear/find the difference when it's On. I'm thinking it's a not working. Can anyone tell me what should i expect from this switch?
IMG_20220501_115838839 (1).jpg
 
I got my hands on a Slampegg bee pre lately. I found it used from another bassman. I have been playtesting with it for 2 weeks now. I got to say I really like it but I'm still trying to figure out the Bright switch. I can't hear/find the difference when it's On. I'm thinking it's a not working. Can anyone tell me what should i expect from this switch?View attachment 4687089
The bright switch in the original units was subtle to the point of being pretty much indistinguishable, which is why it was omitted on the newer units. It also usually had a loud pop when the switch was toggled.
 
The bright switch in the original units was subtle to the point of being pretty much indistinguishable, which is why it was omitted on the newer units. It also usually had a loud pop when the switch was toggled.

Yep, i can hear the ''pop'' when i put it on. So i don't use it. Thanks for the fast reply. Like i said, I'm a little new with preamp pedal but i like your stuff. I got the little grit i wanted in my sound.

When you say newer units, from the pic i sent, do you know how old is my pedal model (just for curiosity)?
 
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Yep, i can hear the ''pop'' when i put it on. So i don't use it. Thanks for the fast reply. Like i said, I'm a little new with preamp pedal but i like your stuff. I got the little grit i wanted in my sound.

When you say newer units, from the pic i sent, do you know how old is my pedal model (just for curiosity)?
Well it has the 6N21B tube instead of 12AX7, and early 2021 I stopped offering those and switched completely over to 12AX7. But it also has the 125B enclosure and top jacks, those weren't standard for a while. If I had to guess I would say most likely November or December 2020. There may be a serial number (date code + batch number) on the inside of the bottom plate that would tell you exactly, but if it was made before I standardized that it may not be.

EDIT: looking at the picture it's a little hard to tell but I believe it looks like it was laser engraved instead of UV printed, which would point to most likely November 2020, as I think December 2020 is when I started UV printing everything.