I have not, but I'm open to. Does it still count if I drop it in the grass instead of the pavement? I don't want to mess up the finish
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The Sushi Box FX Secret Society
- Thread starter kranahan
- Start date
Yeah I like to see ceramic myself. Looking good!Thanksit is a ceramic socket, the few cents I would have saved with plastic wouldn't be worth it. No foam for now, I'm going to see how it holds up just floating in space. The connector is a lot more robust so it doesn't move at all even when the pedal is dropped or shaken.
It's not as easy as I originally intended it to be, but yes there is enough room to wiggle the tube out. The most effective way I've found so far is to pinch the sides of the tube (as best you can) and wiggle it back and forth and upwards until it comes out. It's definitely possible, and frankly isn't the most difficult tube pedal swap I've seen, but isn't the easiest either. I can guarantee the tube won't fall out though, and that's what I was going for.
Sounds like the Shift Line Olympic is also a tricky tube swap... There was a tip posted over in the SLO thread about using a wire tie with a grippy surface to wrap around the tube to help get a better grip on the tube. We've got some wide-ish rubber bands around the house here, I could also see one of those working well too.
5sg.
Oh neat idea, I could see that working. So on my very first prototype I got some free samples from a connector company to try a removable tube socket for easy tube swapping and it didn't work, so I redesigned with the non-removable socket. Naturally right after I had ordered the new ones a sales rep followed up with me and asked about the samples, I told him they didn't work out and explained the problem. He recommended a different removable connector and overnighted more samples to me
I may still try it out for science, but I don't think this one will work either. Fixed tube socket with a difficult to remove but still removable tube is probably the way to go.
I don’t know if this has been asked but have you decided on a tube manufacturer for the X Series?
Kind of. I'm probably going to go with JJ/Tesla, but I also have 40 or so NOS USA and European 12AX7 from various manufacturers that I was thinking about making available, kind of like how Effectrode does it. This one right now has an unbranded USA 12AX7 in it.
Lowendtech
Happily trending in my own peculiar direction.
Lowendtech
Happily trending in my own peculiar direction.
I think all MI products should be tested this way and the videos published.
A strip of folded over duct tape (sticky to sticky, of course) makes a nice and grippy strap to wrap around the tube. I used a popsicle stick with a hole drilled in it to fit over the glass nub and help seat it.
Of course, I no longer have the SLO now that a PA has displaced it from my board. I also have a Night Owl Edison in the chain that I have not kicked off just yet.
Agreed, I was able to wiggle the tube out without external tools, but getting it back in was actually a bit trickier, popsicle stick would have done the trick!
Just so everyone knows, I have a parts order showing up tomorrow for the rest of the X series and the Deep Dish so I can get to work verifying them. I'm still trying to focus on finishing up the November builds, but I have to do something while I'm waiting for powdercoat to cure or waiting for the laser to finish.
I'm going to design a 3d printed wrench for this for fun tonight and try it on my Edison. Seems like something people might like...
Sounds good. The fiddle involved with the SLO discourages me from experimenting with tubes in that more than once in a blue moon.
V1.0 im going to try an open-ended style box wrench with a curve to try and cradle the bottom of the tube, with a hole in the other side handle for pushing.
There are 3d strap wrenches on Thingiverse already it looks like: Mini Strap Wrench by biocode
There are 3d strap wrenches on Thingiverse already it looks like: Mini Strap Wrench by biocode
I think tube rolling is highly overrated for guitar or bass preamps.
Many of the tubes touted as being "the good old ones" came out of the same factory, with different imprints on the "bulb" as the "plentiful" ones, of Russian or Chinese origin.
I'd stick with something that is consistent, maybe the current JJs or something generally easily available and priced similarly (low), like Sovtek or Svetlana.
It's a deep rat-hole to go down, especially if "militarized" versions (5751 et. al.) and lower mu (gain) versions (12ax, 12ay) are included, and can be expensive, for differences that are so subtle as to be nearly imaginary.
IMO, for a guitar/bass pre, you want high gain and low microphonics, and the search for "moar tone" is better left to other places in the signal chain.
Many of the tubes touted as being "the good old ones" came out of the same factory, with different imprints on the "bulb" as the "plentiful" ones, of Russian or Chinese origin.
I'd stick with something that is consistent, maybe the current JJs or something generally easily available and priced similarly (low), like Sovtek or Svetlana.
It's a deep rat-hole to go down, especially if "militarized" versions (5751 et. al.) and lower mu (gain) versions (12ax, 12ay) are included, and can be expensive, for differences that are so subtle as to be nearly imaginary.
IMO, for a guitar/bass pre, you want high gain and low microphonics, and the search for "moar tone" is better left to other places in the signal chain.
v1.0 on the printer
*this is in no way currently related to any of the X pedals directly, just a random idea based on people talking about removing tubes while I was already in Tinkercad
