The Sushi Box FX Secret Society

[Thumper]

All that's on my list now is a Slampegg.

Maybe this should be called the Not Secret Society. I mean when they make their way to the small city of Syracuse UT.

 

[Jamie Hale]

I love those tentative designs, especially the UA. But I just ordered an HW UA for August so I will patiently wait. However, an HW DW wouldn’t happen to be lying around? I’d buy it…

 

[Thumper]

The XLR is the output from the DI, but you can use the 1/4" output at the same time. The "Dry Pass/Pre Out" switch lets you choose whether you want a preamp affected output on the 1/4" output or just a dry passthrough, like a parallel input jack.

Just tried the Finally, only the dry signal goes from the 1/4" output to the amp, putting it in PRE, and nothing. Did I do something wrong? Doe the Finally have to be the last thing in the signal? All I have after it in my home board is my Crybaby for ease of use. I can certainly switch it.

 

[johnk_10]

Damn! i went to reverse the IRF740 and while unsoldering it i must've broken a trace since the pedal doesn't work at all now! i guess i'll need another PCB for it unless i can trace where to jump it.

unfortunately the PCB diagram in the build document doesn't match the PCB that i have, otherwise i could trace it and make a jumper for it and get it working again.

 

[Hasty]

Oh man! That super sucks! I hate it when that happens. Usually I leave the iron on too long and lift the pad. Hope you can jump it!

 

[Bassgeer]

They're milled by CNC machine, looks like they're using pretty small bits to get those fine corners. I use larger bits so my slots have rounded ends, so I'm going to see if I can get them to make these rounded corners as well. This isn't a bad look, but I've gotten used to the rounded corners.

Must be a really tiny bit hahaha! Yeah, the rounded corners look a bit cleaner and more stylish IMO.

 

[Pedalnetics]

If ya'll want a silent relay, checkout the Mas Effects one, its awesomely small and well priced, and its even open-source on github if you want to do it yourself:

Relay Bypass for DIY Guitar Pedals - soft touch with mute, hold, and more

/not affiliated, just like the product and features

 

[Sushi Box FX]

Just tried the Finally, only the dry signal goes from the 1/4" output to the amp, putting it in PRE, and nothing. Did I do something wrong? Doe the Finally have to be the last thing in the signal? All I have after it in my home board is my Crybaby for ease of use. I can certainly switch it.

It doesn't need to be the last thing in the chain. What are you using to power it? Is the LED lighting up fully? Did you order it with or without a tube, and if without what tube do you have in it?

Damn! i went to reverse the IRF740 and while unsoldering it i must've broken a trace since the pedal doesn't work at all now! i guess i'll need another PCB for it unless i can trace where to jump it.

unfortunately the PCB diagram in the build document doesn't match the PCB that i have, otherwise i could trace it and make a jumper for it and get it working again.

I haven't updated the build doc yet but I'll pull up the design tonight and get you the updated board trace drawings so you can see if it's possible to get a jumper in.

 

[johnk_10]

I haven't updated the build doc yet but I'll pull up the design tonight and get you the updated board trace drawings so you can see if it's possible to get a jumper in.

please do!

 

[Sushi Box FX]

please do!

Alright, here it is. I swear I'll update the build doc eventually, but until then it will live here. Red is top layer, blue is bottom. Copper pour is ground on both layers. Let me know if there's anything you want clarification.

 

[Sushi Box FX]

All that's on my list now is a Slampegg.

Maybe this should be called the Not Secret Society. I mean when they make their way to the small city of Syracuse UT.

Small world, I have family in the Layton area and one of my friends from school works at Hill AFB. We have a family reunion out that way every year, but I didn't make it this year due to the 1400 mile drive.

 

[Hasty]

Alright, here it is. I swear I'll update the build doc eventually, but until then it will live here. Red is top layer, blue is bottom. Copper pour is ground on both layers. Let me know if there's anything you want clarification.

View attachment 4779401 View attachment 4779402

Thanks for posting this. Just fired mine up and get a strong hum. Volume worked as expected, can barely hear the bass unless bypassed.

Touched the gain knob and the hum got louder when my bare skin made contact . Soooo… I unplugged it and I’ll leave it alone til tomorrow to give the caps time to drain. Then I’ll start tracing to see what I did wrong. So weird, because it’s a simple build and well laid out.

 

[Sushi Box FX]

Thanks for posting this. Just fired mine up and get a strong hum. Volume worked as expected, can barely hear the bass unless bypassed.

Touched the gain knob and the hum got louder when my bare skin made contact . Soooo… I unplugged it and I’ll leave it alone til tomorrow to give the caps time to drain. Then I’ll start tracing to see what I did wrong. So weird, because it’s a simple build and well laid out.

What are you using to power it with? My hunch would either be power issue or solder bridge somewhere.

A safety note, the way the power supply was designed, the high voltage caps should drain to non-dangerous levels (<10V) in less than 5 seconds after power is disconnected, and should be completely drained within a minute of power being disconnected. I've been zapped too many times by amps that didn't bleed off their HV caps, so it's something I put in everything now.

 

[johnk_10]

i tried repairing my pcb with jumpers but no luck so i just ordered another pcb for my diy space heater..
BTW, feel free to use my pic of my build.

 

[Hasty]

What are you using to power it with? My hunch would either be power issue or solder bridge somewhere.

A safety note, the way the power supply was designed, the high voltage caps should drain to non-dangerous levels (<10V) in less than 5 seconds after power is disconnected, and should be completely drained within a minute of power being disconnected. I've been zapped too many times by amps that didn't bleed off their HV caps, so it's something I put in everything now.

Powered it with a single plug one spot. There was one spot where it looks like there might be a bridge, it’s two resistors that are almost touching pads. I’m wondering if that’s the culprit. Luckily I have a second board and I’ll check them side by side.

Good to know those caps drain quickly! I love that you thought of that.

I’ll report back sometime tomorrow, after I obsess about it all night.

 

[Sushi Box FX]

i tried repairing my pcb with jumpers but no luck so i just ordered another pcb for my diy space heater..
BTW, feel free to use my pic of my build.

Dang, I focused on making it small but I guess it's not very repairable if it needs rework. I'll get your new board in an envelope and get it out first thing tomorrow.

 

[Thumper]

Small world, I have family in the Layton area and one of my friends from school works at Hill AFB. We have a family reunion out that way every year, but I didn't make it this year due to the 1400 mile drive.

On our way home from Rhett Thomas. We both retired from Hill AFB. I will give the Finally it's own 1 Spot and try again

 

[adube810]

fwiw i use a MXR mini iso brick which runs 300ma per output and I have no problem powering the finally

 

[pbassnut]

Dang, I focused on making it small but I guess it's not very repairable if it needs rework. I'll get your new board in an envelope and get it out first thing tomorrow.

Yet another example of great customer service from Sushi Box. No shocker. Despite the company being a one man operation with Nathan probably about as busy as a one armed paper hanger with his family obligations, day job, and life in general ... he managed to find the time to hook me up with some world class customer service. YOU DA MAN, Nathan.

 

[Hasty]

Troubleshooting begins.

checked all my solder joints and everything looks good. Any joint that looks like it bridges another actually shared a common trace (there are 4 or 5 of those on the board). Resistors all look good. I solder them from the top so the bottom of the board might look like some aren’t soldered but they’re good up top.

I compared them with my unpopulated PCB to make sure. As an aside, having another PCB right next to you when running down problems sure makes things nice.

Next I checked those little things that sometimes cause problems if overlooked. Checked the 555 chip, it looks good. Q1 seems to be oriented correctly. Electrolytic caps seem to be correctly oriented.

Potentiometers have covers so I know they’re not making contact with anything.

Now I wish I still had my old signal tracer pin.

if anyone wants to take a peek at my board, I might have missed something super obvious. Feel free to point it out.