The Sushi Box FX Secret Society

[fourstringdrums]

Sleep? In this economy?

 

[Sushi Box FX]

Sleep? In this economy?

I mean I currently don't much, because, you know, this economy.

 

[fourstringdrums]

You really won't be gaining anything with a current doubler aside from quicker warmup time. When the tube is warmed up the pedal will pull around 350mA, regardless of whether it has 500mA or 1000mA available to it.

Oh and stupid question, is the tube considered warmed up as long as it has power or do you actually have to engage the pedal?

 

[johnk_10]

Oh and stupid question, is the tube considered warmed up as long as it has power or do you actually have to engage the pedal?

it's warmed up if it has power, engaged or not.

 

[Parzival]

it's warmed up if it has power, engaged or not.

Let’s say I plug it in and warm it up. Then I unplug and quickly plug to my pedalboard power. Will it have to warm up again?

 

[johnk_10]

probably, but if you do it quick enough, it'll take less time to warm up.

 

[MikoFX]

Let’s say I plug it in and warm it up. Then I unplug and quickly plug to my pedalboard power. Will it have to warm up again?

Is this a hypothetical question just for the sake of knowledge, or would there actually ever be a time you'd intentionally do this?

I haven't done this with a SB device, but with my Effectrode PC-2A, if I power it down and immediately power it back up, it has to warm up again before it will pass signal (~30 seconds).

[Edited to correct syntax]

 

[LSM07]

If they're cold, you're cold! Keep them warm!

 

[fourstringdrums]

probably, but if you do it quick enough, it'll take less time to warm up.

How long should you give it, minute and a half or so?

 

[johnk_10]

How long should you give it, minute and a half or so?

all of my sushi pedals usually warm up within a minute (or two--max)

 

[sloppy_phil]

How long should you give it, minute and a half or so?

I feed my Sushi(s) with a 500mA tap, and they are warmed up within, truly, 5 seconds. If you are offering it a lower draw (say, like 300mA), then it'll take a fair bit longer to warm up.

 

[Parzival]

Is this a hypothetical question just for the sake of knowledge, or would there actually ever be a time you'd intentionally do this?

I haven't done this with a SB device, but with my Effectrode PC-2A, if I power it down and immediately power it back up, it has to warm up again before it will pass signal (~30 seconds).

[Edited to correct syntax]

Kinda hypothetical, but for possible real world application.

Right now I have wireless rechargeable power for my pedals. For my Finally V2, the power lasts through a whole show and drains about half to just over half, so no issue. I am wondering for possible future. If there is a Furthermore in the future and I decide I want to upgrade to that, it will have more tubes and I am assuming a larger power draw. The power I have would probably handle for a whole show, but it could be close and I wouldn't want to take a chance. Saving that initial warm up draw, might be just what I would need to run worry free. And, I could test this out at home before trying such a maneuver live. I've been burned before on my wireless unit for my bass until I realized what I needed to do during a show to insure the power would last.

 

[Sushi Box FX]

I've always felt like I could cut down on the amount of time I have to spend answering questions by putting together a 1-2 page manual of each pedal I make. I already have one for Venus X due to its complexity, but I've started putting them together for everything else I make as well. I still need to get mechanical drawings of the interiors of the pedals so I can show internal trimpots as that's a question I get regularly, but I think this is a pretty good start.

 

[jwindham]

I feed my Sushi(s) with a 500mA tap, and they are warmed up within, truly, 5 seconds. If you are offering it a lower draw (say, like 300mA), then it'll take a fair bit longer to warm up.

Just curious, do you find the post worm-up warm-up sound a benefit to the overall tone?

 

[wintremute]

I've always felt like I could cut down on the amount of time I have to spend answering questions by putting together a 1-2 page manual of each pedal I make. I already have one for Venus X due to its complexity, but I've started putting them together for everything else I make as well. I still need to get mechanical drawings of the interiors of the pedals so I can show internal trimpots as that's a question I get regularly, but I think this is a pretty good start.

View attachment 5343933

While I see that your example is schematically correct, to me it would be more useful to have all the images respecting gravity - it would be easier to read. I suggest:

 

[bassbrad]

I've always felt like I could cut down on the amount of time I have to spend answering questions by putting together a 1-2 page manual of each pedal I make. I already have one for Venus X due to its complexity, but I've started putting them together for everything else I make as well. I still need to get mechanical drawings of the interiors of the pedals so I can show internal trimpots as that's a question I get regularly, but I think this is a pretty good start.

View attachment 5343933

There should be a mention of polarity not being an issue in #3, because you are a brilliant and conscientious designer.

 

[Mighty Thumb]

I've always felt like I could cut down on the amount of time I have to spend answering questions by putting together a 1-2 page manual of each pedal I make. I already have one for Venus X due to its complexity, but I've started putting them together for everything else I make as well. I still need to get mechanical drawings of the interiors of the pedals so I can show internal trimpots as that's a question I get regularly, but I think this is a pretty good start.

View attachment 5343933

I wholeheartedly support and applaud this, but I am “that guy” who read manuals. It’s an occupational hazard. Do keep in mind that no matter how well a manual is written, there will always be some who still won’t understand it, and some who won’t read it at all.

 

[Sushi Box FX]

There should be a mention of polarity not being an issue in #3, because you are a brilliant and conscientious designer.

Except that all my current pedals require a center negative supply. Accidentally connecting the wrong supply won't damage the pedal because it is still protected, but my pedals will not operate with a center positive supply.

 

[OldShark]

Nitpicking: You might add that the balanced output is always post preamp, in contrast to the switchable unbalanced output. Does the HPF affect both outputs?

That being said, these are very helpful explanations, I'm more used to pedal manual telling "GAIN: This sets the gain, VOLUME: This sets the overall volume" and other trivia...

 

[Sushi Box FX]

Nitpicking: You might add that the balanced output is always post preamp, in contrast to the switchable unbalanced output. Does the HPF affect both outputs?

The HPF does affect both outputs. Good notes, thanks!