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There's another storm brewing!

Gotoh GB350's, which I like a lot on the previous bass and which are very light. Further, the key buttons complement the design well.The only tuners with tapered shafts that I'm aware of are MusicMan, unless I'm missing something.Read the rest of the thread, it's in detail. Nutshell: for this build I'm trying putting lightness over versatility.

I think we just had a simple miscommunication in terminology here (which was probably my fault.) Perhaps I meant the tuning post? What I'm trying to say is the round bit that sticks out of the headstock that the string wraps around. The outer edges are straight up and down, whilst most modern tuners are more )(. The weight factor, however, would explain that.

I know I should read the rest of the thread. I was just... tired, ya know? And 25 pages is non-insignificant. But I appreciate your answers.
 
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I saw this in a thread somewhere a while back and bookmarked it because I thought it was so cool. Maybe there's something in the US though.
That is exactly the thing I've been looking for for years. You are a god among men.
Awesome, that was one of the two things I was thinking of. I may get one of the single drums, the whole kit is pretty pricey. Even a single is $30-40, not cheap. Plus 10 for the pump, and 5-10 for each grit of sandpaper that you want.

The other thing was also a drum that mounts on a drill, but it also has a handle on the other end of the drum, opposite the drill. The handle has bearings. That way, when you use it you are guiding it with two hands, which seems like a great idea. A few years back someone here had one, might have been m***yswood. If anyone knows what I'm referring to, I'd appreciate a link on that one, too.

[ edit ] I think I found it, or something like it. $320, holy crap.
http://www.flap-wheels.com/product-p/qw6-75-115.htm
If anyone knows of a cheaper version, do tell. [ /edit ]

I think we just had a simple miscommunication in terminology here (which was probably my fault.) Perhaps I meant the tuning post? What I'm trying to say is the round bit that sticks out of the headstock that the string wraps around. The outer edges are straight up and down, whilst most modern tuners are more )(. The weight factor, however, would explain that.

I know I should read the rest of the thread. I was just... tired, ya know? And 25 pages is non-insignificant. But I appreciate your answers.
You're right, I hadn't thought about that. They often do narrow at the middle, and then widen again. I was referring to the EBMMs that I think are just wider at the tip and narrow towards the wood, like a cone, though I may be mistaken.
 
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So a dude goes awol for a couple of years and comes back to find Peter finally building and Larry back in the game. Wow. Miracles DO happen ;)

Peter, I would expect nothing but the awesome complexity of a beast you got there. AWESOME!

Hi grandaddy Larry, remember me? Please don't yell at me, I won't ask for super-crazy-figure-cocobolo.
Welcome back! Did you miss Pete's first build? If you did, it is well worth the LONG read.

When did Larry get back in business? I thought he just sourced the wood for Pete by being kind, didn't realize he was open for business again.

lowsound
 
The other thing was also a drum that mounts on a drill, but it also has a handle on the other end of the drum, opposite the drill. The handle has bearings. That way, when you use it you are guiding it with two hands, which seems like a great idea. A few years back someone here had one, might have been m***yswood. If anyone knows what I'm referring to, I'd appreciate a link on that one, too.

Hey PJ,
what your thinking of is called a rolling pin sander. there's a few different kinds on the market, but again not cheep. although, with a little time the kind you mount in a hand drill aren't hard to make.

here's some tube vids of a guy (who goes a little over board IMO) making one that might give you some ideas.





:thumbsup:
 
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Reactions: Hopkins
Hey PJ,
what your thinking of is called a rolling pin sander. there's a few different kinds on the market, but again not cheep. although, with a little time the kind you mount in a hand drill aren't hard to make.

here's some tube vids of a guy (who goes a little over board IMO) making one that might give you some ideas.





:thumbsup:



Great post
 
After posting I watched those vids again and caught a few of the comments. I guess he was selling the jigs and/or rolling pin sanders for a while, so... that explains things. My thought is, why not just buy an inexpensive hard wood rolling pin and modify it, I doubt they're that far out of round.

I've been thinking about trying this for a while myself. :D
 
Hey PJ,
what your thinking of is called a rolling pin sander. there's a few different kinds on the market, but again not cheep. although, with a little time the kind you mount in a hand drill aren't hard to make.

here's some tube vids of a guy (who goes a little over board IMO) making one that might give you some ideas.





:thumbsup:

Very cool. Thanks!
After posting I watched those vids again and caught a few of the comments. I guess he was selling the jigs and/or rolling pin sanders for a while, so... that explains things. My thought is, why not just buy an inexpensive hard wood rolling pin and modify it, I doubt they're that far out of round.

I've been thinking about trying this for a while myself. :D
A rolling pin has a dead shaft (anchored to the non-rotating handles), and has bearings in the roller. For this sander you need bearings in the handle, because it has a live shaft (with the roller anchored to the shaft, and the handle rotating with respect to the shaft).
 
Very cool. Thanks!
A rolling pin has a dead shaft (anchored to the non-rotating handles), and has bearings in the roller. For this sander you need bearings in the handle, because it has a live shaft (with the roller anchored to the shaft, and the handle rotating with respect to the shaft).

I think a the barrel of a rolling pin could be easily modified to work as one of these sanders though.
 
A modified french rolling pin might work really well for the modification that Hopkins mentioned
french rolling pin.jpg
 
I gave it a go and built a rolling pin sander yesterday with a cheep ash rolling pin. it worked well, but... I think the real trick to this is the shaft. Thus far mine has a touch of run out. I'm going to try a couple things (cheep things) before I conclude success or failure. So if all goes well Pete, I'll be happy to make another one and give it to you. :thumbsup:
 
I gave it a go and built a rolling pin sander yesterday with a cheep ash rolling pin. it worked well, but... I think the real trick to this is the shaft. Thus far mine has a touch of run out. I'm going to try a couple things (cheep things) before I conclude success or failure. So if all goes well Pete, I'll be happy to make another one and give it to you. :thumbsup:
That would be fantastic, thank you! I have actually reworked the volute and have it in close to final form, but I know I would still use a sander like that in places like inside the horns, which are yet to be finish shaped.


I made the volute much simpler, with just a hint of the heel "V". I can post a pic in the next few days, maybe I'll get some time to work on it this weekend.
 
Cool, thanks, I was on the veritastools.com site, which doesn't have it.




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OK I don't have pics of the volute in its present state yet, but -- today was Thanksgiving today in the USA. So we had a family gathering of 17 people, and between myself, my brother, and a cousin, we put together a tasting of quite a few different beers. A good time was had by all. Here's a pic of one of each of the brews.

IMG_7955_zps4517e92f.jpg
 
Back to work — pickup mounting holes


My new job has been taking up too many hours to do much lately, but today I got some work done.

The pickups will be cleanly screw-free at the front, with adjustment screws accessible from the back side. To drill the holes in the proper places, first I made six transfer points,
DSC00787_zps4e0a0152.jpg


which were then mounted in the pickup shell threaded inserts.
DSC00810_zps6444d1e6.jpg

I made six because two shells share the same body cavity, and there are three per shell.

Then I dropped the shells into the cavity, and shimmed for equal gap on all sides,
DSC00815_zps89d3b092.jpg

and tapped each screw-loaded corner to make a mark on the bottom of the cavity.

Moved the punches and repeated for the third shell. Drilled the thru-holes from the front side, and then flipped and drilled counterbores from the back side.

After that, I did some adjustment of the fit of the control cavity cover, and then sanded down the back side to even everything off. Here's a shot of the present state.
DSC00818_zps6fa09b3d.jpg

I worked it out to have the counterbores go down to the first blue veneer so that when the screws are in place, you'll see a slight blue ring peeking out.

I'm also happy that the matching of the three wenge boards appears as planned, so that they look pretty much like a single board from some impossible tree.
 
1: I am really glad you are updating this thread. I have been missing it.

Next, this looks like a simple solution to a slightly complicated problem. Nice.

C: That neck heel looks ridiculously cool. The grain on the back is truly pretty.

Please, more updates!