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Thinking about a neck-dive solution... Edit : It works !

So yeah, after reading, thinking and fiddling a bit with the general solutions regarding neck dive such as
-add weight,
-move the bridge/horn button,
-attach the strap to the headstock acoustic-style,
-get lightweight tuners
-extend the horn,

I decided to add some sort of shim/extender to the horn of my jazz bass fiver to extend it.
So being a noob, I would love to get some insight from you, fellow experienced TBers,

so I'm planning to
1-cut a 3/4 inch lenght of a wood dowel like those (and maybe vernish it to match my maple fretboard)
g1114.jpg
,
2-press drill with a dremel bit a hole through it
3-buy a screw that fits in the button and that is about 1inch longer than the stock one.
4-throw a toothpick or two inside the drilled hole on the bass to help the new screw to grip in
5-and then reassemble everything with maybe a bit of felt between the bass and the dowl section.

So any advice on disaster possibilities before I start ? I'm worried about how the tension could eventually damage the bass body...
Would it be better to use a metal extender or a plumber pipe of some sort ? I would prefer to stay away from the stacked washer look, anything thats light is a plus.

Thanks
 
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So you tried swapping the tuners? I understand this could cost if it doesn't work out but if I was in the same position, I'd try and estimate the weight difference it would make before buying, that would be the first thing I would do.
 
Hey dude, Have you looked at your strap?? is it glossy/satin/polished on the inside? You could try a genuine leather strap, with the inside(towards your body) a suede (high friction) kind of material. Or maybe it is your silk/satin shirt maybe...what kind of rodeos are you playing at anyway?...LOL...Cheers...
 
I have to admit, that looks pretty cool especially for a DIY solution.
I agree that IS a very good looking answer. I used the same idea only I had some aluminum spacers from some old electronic gear. They were somewhat longer than the socket and were anodized a nice gray so they looked good and were light weight. I think a metal extender is better than wood. Wood isn't as strong and will tend to crush under the lever action of the strap pulling up.

I also used a larger screw size than came with the Dunlop straplocks. I did have to grind the heads down to fit inside the buttons as the Dunlops require but they have never snapped off.

Edit: [Yes, mine look just like Ric5's fix, only mine are gray aluminum tubes. I also put a metal washer at the joint to the bass to help distribute the force of the tube pressing into the wood under the lifting]

Also let me vote negative on the acoustic-style strap to the headstock idea. I've got a couple of guitars that I put a strap on that way to cure neckdive. I usually play them sitting, so I didn't notice a problem. Recently I played them standing and the attachment at the headstock pulls the guitar back towards you and gets it into a very uncomfortable position for playing. You are always shoving it forward which is as bad as neckdive!

I'm convinced that only horn extensions or one of those backside brackets like steinbergers use are the best solution. OF course light weight tuners work too if your dive is not really bad.
 
I put lead fishing weighs in the control cavity. If you have a blow torch, a trowel (with a non-metal handle), and some aluminum foil, you can make a mold with the aluminum foil and drip the molten lead into the mold - then it will be perfectly designed to fit your bass' needs.

Yeah, that's the ticket. Take a big heavy Fender bass and make it even HEAVIER with lead!