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Nope.But I don't have a 63-65 reverse I know I'll get no sympathy from you lot.
Hipshot as well. It comes with two sets of bolts, one for Gibson and one for Epiphone.Not sure about the Hipshot, but the Babicz comes with three replacement bolts, and just screws into the original inserts.
Or, they have their own inserts available separately (pretty inexpensively), if you want to have Gibson-style flush-mount inserts.
Yep.Good point about the nut. If the slots are too high, it doesn’t matter how low the bridge is, it’s going to be hard to play.
I believe intonation should be the last thing you adjust. If you change the action, you change the amount of compensation required.
I could fabricate saddles, but I don’t know that it would make much of a difference. If a saddle ever breaks, I’ll fab some up.
The Hipshot 2 point bridge fits, but looks wrong on that bass IMO.
I'm sure there was a reason, but that always puzzled me. Many have disintegrated. Fortunately by '55 they were metal.
ok setup update. Rather than get caught up in the #s of string heights and stuff, I figured I'd just play the bass. I did set the intonation and the 12th fret notes are totally in tune, as are the open strings. Playing the bass itself feels good, though in a seated position, that upper horn likes to carve into my ribcage.
Now, someone talk to me about pickup heights, or should I leave them alone. Turning the screws doesn't do much in the way of raising or lowering and things sound good to my ears so far. Thoughts?
Nah, dude. Even I have one.That's a job for @JIO and/or @Count Bassie.
You really needed that comma after “frontal”.I really do try to keep it clean.
Besides, we'll have plenty of time for some gentle conversation.
Mine all insist on being slung low so never a problem so long as I stand.Hah! I have a permanent soft-spot on my rib-cage from playing my T-bird. It's less noticeable these days as I'm playing more ergonomic basses, but it's there. I guess if one slings it low there isn't an issue. There are formula's for pu height, but if it's too close, you'll get 'wolf notes' (feedback/surges) in certain notes. The other concern is getting each string to have balanced output. Add to this that the E and A strings will vibrate/move up and down more than the D & G so that also needs to be taken into account. No wolf notes/surges, balanced string output and you are good to go.
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on a maybe? somewhat? related note, this is the latest video of the original (not-Thunderbird) bass with that color, and the bassist it's named after
(assuming the link process works, for a change)
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Nah, dude. Even I have one.
Mine all insist on being slung low so never a problem so long as I stand.

Hah! I have a permanent soft-spot on my rib-cage from playing my T-bird. It's less noticeable these days as I'm playing more ergonomic basses, but it's there. I guess if one slings it low there isn't an issue. There are formula's for pu height, but if it's too close, you'll get 'wolf notes' (feedback/surges) in certain notes. The other concern is getting each string to have balanced output. Add to this that the E and A strings will vibrate/move up and down more than the D & G so that also needs to be taken into account. No wolf notes/surges, balanced string output and you are good to go.
If I can find a damaged/abused (body/electronics) B-Quad for a good price it would be worth it for the neck alone. The bass electronics are overly complicated. (2 mag pu's, a piezo, 18v pre and the stereo option to select individual strings into different cabs) The (nicely ergo) body could be used to reformulate into a simpler electronics/bridge format with a wooden neck and it would still be a good bass.
Yep, yer definitely gonna find letting it ride low works better.THanks again, I think I'm done tweaking it now. Just played through a bunch of tunes and outside of a sore sternum, feeling good about how it plays. Gonna find a couple bucks for a wider strap and then fire it up for practice this weekend. Your advice has been great and appreciated!![]()