Oops, GTG brain damage...
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Thunderbird Club
- Thread starter TBird1958
- Start date
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- club thunderbird
Also the the variance of the spot of the measurement on the PU side. Eyeballing it could explain the discrepancies.
Are the measurements from the Center of the 12th fret or the edge?
I have a 2017 VP. Maybe we should compare it to the 2022.
My MB200 also has a fan, but I never notice it. I believe it’s variable speed.
I measured from the edge of the 12th fret to the center of the PU.
- Mar 13, 2008
- 18,895
- 142,211
- Disclosures
- Endorsing Artist Mike Lull T Bass pickups, The Bass Shop, Seattle WA.
Were I replacing pickups in an Epiphone Classic Pro the first thing to note would be that the cavities are the correct size for any good repro out there (Lull, Thunderbucker,Lollar etc.) no additional routing need there. If we're spaeking of the standard bolt on neck model it will need a little additional width to each side of the routs as they're slightly too narrow. Easily done with a Dremel or even hand tools. The routs are way too deep, I shimmed with some mahogany strip stock that I bought from a local woodworking supply store, 1/2" thick. I cut pieces to fill the whole rout with a notch for the pickup wire to pass out and glued them in place with wood glue. Once dry I mark the hole locations and did small pilot holes to start the pickup mounting screws. I usually put some dense foam on the underside of the pickup so it has a small amount of spring to it once mounted - I've used springs around the mounting screws as well.
As for wiring I take pictures beforehand so I get everything back where it's supposed to be, I use a small hot soldering iron (HO train stuff!) and plenty of flux, tools to fit the job, but you can buy completed a harness for about $60.00 as well. I would add the trim rings after completing the wiring/testing.
Doing it this way allow the pickup to recess into the body should it need to - Sometimes it does, note the pictures.
Regarding availability, I think Lollars and Seymour Duncan custom shop are generally available, for Lulls I would call the shop directly as I'm not certain. I'm told that Thunderbuckers are out of production presently.
Here's a Greco rout.
Here's the pickups on my '89, it's slightly recessed into the rout, note the ring and spacer.
My Lull T4II, again slightly recessed.
On the '64 the pickup barely breaks above the spacer.
As for wiring I take pictures beforehand so I get everything back where it's supposed to be, I use a small hot soldering iron (HO train stuff!) and plenty of flux, tools to fit the job, but you can buy completed a harness for about $60.00 as well. I would add the trim rings after completing the wiring/testing.
Doing it this way allow the pickup to recess into the body should it need to - Sometimes it does, note the pictures.
Regarding availability, I think Lollars and Seymour Duncan custom shop are generally available, for Lulls I would call the shop directly as I'm not certain. I'm told that Thunderbuckers are out of production presently.
Here's a Greco rout.
Here's the pickups on my '89, it's slightly recessed into the rout, note the ring and spacer.
My Lull T4II, again slightly recessed.
On the '64 the pickup barely breaks above the spacer.
Last edited:
I like the sound of the CP. More thinking about changing the pickups on the 2018 Epi IV.Were I replacing pickups in an Epiphone Classic Pro the first thing to note would be that the cavities are the correct size for any good repro out there (Lull, Thunderbucker,Lollar etc.) no additional routing need there. If we're spaeking of the standard bolt on neck model it will need a little additional width to each side of the routs as they're slightly too narrow. Easily done with a Dremel or even hand tools. The routs are way too deep, I shimmed with some mahogany strip stock that I bought from a local woodworking supply store, 1/2" thick. I cut pieces to fill the whole rout with a notch for the pickup wire to pass out and glued them in place with wood glue. Once dry I mark the hole locations and did small pilot holes to start the pickup mounting screws. I usually put some dense foam on the underside of the pickup some it has a small amount of spring to it once mounted - I've used springs around the mounting screws as well.
As for wiring I take pictures beforehand so I get everything back where it's supposed to be, I use a small hot soldering iron (HO train stuff!) and plenty of flux, tools to fit the job, but you can buy completed a harness for about $60.00 as well. I would add the trim rings after completing the wiring/testing.
Doing it this way allow the pickup to recess into the body should it need to - Sometimes it does, note the pictures.
Regarding availability, I think Lollars and Seymour Duncan custom shop are generally available, for Lulls I would call the shop directly as I'm not certain. I'm told that Thunderbuckers are out of production presently.
Here's a Greco rout.
Here's the pickups on my '89, it's slightly recessed into the rout, note the ring and spacer.
My Lull T4II, again slightly recessed.
On the '64 the pickup barely breaks above the spacer.
Gaolee
Official leathers tester and crash dummy
I just dive in. The Flamingo has holes drilled in it, and it's a 1991 Gibson. It's on its second set of aftermarket pickups, this time Thunderbuckers. The fretless may end up with Lulls if I can get a set. I get a kick out of Alumitones, but they aren't even close to Thunderbird sounding.
I just put SS on my Vintage Pro.
Gaolee
Official leathers tester and crash dummy
Your CP has modern Gibson pickups in it. I happen to like them for the most part. Which reminds me, there's the set that came out of the Flamingo floating around somewhere, and I was going to see if I can find them and send pictures to Veronica. Somebody was looking for something like that, as I recall.
On my VP, made in 2017:
10 7/8
14 3/4
That’s measured from the edge of the 12th fret to the center of the PU. I’d say the difference is due to measuring methods.
Mike, if you measure like this, do you get 10 1/8 from the edge of the neck PU to the centreline of the 12th fret?
Yep using that method I get 10 1/8th
@Miles_ONeal and team firebird bass…
would it be helpful on the same page to mention what pickups come stock on certain Epiphone and Gibson’s?
Maybe list current manufacturers?
I always forget what pickups I have on my CP I believe I was told it’s a 2013.
Probucker 760’s in my embassy’s
21 NR is just listed as thunderbird rhythm and lead…
no clue if there is a special name for the Greco pickups. Or if they are different year to year.
would it be helpful on the same page to mention what pickups come stock on certain Epiphone and Gibson’s?
Maybe list current manufacturers?
I always forget what pickups I have on my CP I believe I was told it’s a 2013.
Probucker 760’s in my embassy’s
21 NR is just listed as thunderbird rhythm and lead…
no clue if there is a special name for the Greco pickups. Or if they are different year to year.
Ya know, even if this would fit the 67, $570?
New Gibson Non Reverse ThunderBird IV Thunder Bird V HardShell Bass Guitar Case | eBay
New Gibson Non Reverse ThunderBird IV Thunder Bird V HardShell Bass Guitar Case | eBay
As an eBay Associate, TalkBass may earn a commission from qualifying purchases.
Yikes!!! I just ordered my Epi case it was 138.00 shipped.Ya know, even if this would fit the 67, $570?
New Gibson Non Reverse ThunderBird IV Thunder Bird V HardShell Bass Guitar Case | eBay
As an eBay Associate, TalkBass may earn a commission from qualifying purchases.
There you go. They have not changed the VP spacing, but our initial measurements yielded an 1/8” difference.
If we were starting this, I would also suggest using the center of the 12th fret.
IIRC there’s a 2017, a 2019, and a 2022.
I think folks are over thinking this. The original intent of the listing was to give relatively accurate measurements for pup spacing of different models and model years in regards to impacting the tone of the bass. With that objective in mind, it isn’t going to make any noticeable difference in sound if one pickup is 1/16” closer to the neck than another. Due to different people measuring and different measuring tools used we’d be lucky to have + or - 1/16” accuracy, probably more like + or - 1/8” accuracy is more realistic.
From a scientific standpoint the proper way to take this measurement is with a certified caliper that measures in at least the 100ths of an inch, and to measure from the center of the 12th fret wire to the confirmed scribed center of each pickup. I could have done that but felt it would be overkill for the original intent. What I did, is use a construction grade tape measure (with markings down to 1/16”). Then I hooked the dumb end of the tape measure over the 12th fret wire and pulled the smart end down to what looked like about the center of the pickup. Because I didn’t sit down and scribe each pickup to find the true dead center, I just eyeballed it I wouldn’t be at all surprised if I was off by a 32nd of an inch in either direction.
Net takeaway - use the dimensions listed as a reference to determine pup placement and how it might impact tone. Do Not use the measurements to route a bass or a pickguard with out confirming the exact dimensions you need. A pickguard that’s off a 16th of an inch is pretty much a throwaway. A discussion about a vintage bird being with in a 16th of an inch on pup spacing to a modern bird is very informative.
Is it April 1? Totally watching this one to see if it gets a bid.Ya know, even if this would fit the 67, $570?
New Gibson Non Reverse ThunderBird IV Thunder Bird V HardShell Bass Guitar Case | eBay
As an eBay Associate, TalkBass may earn a commission from qualifying purchases.
