Thunderbird Club

[GonePlaid]

Nice! My EBS just has lower octaves (3 settings), but I can see where a higher octave would really be handy as well, especially when a guitar drops out to do a lead. I use mine for that a little as well, but the higher wold work better than the lower--unless I play higher, which I don't think I ever do. My lowers sound more artificial than the octaver on the cheap Ashdown head. Go figure. Your's sounded good from what I could hear.

I had an OC-1 that only went down 1, so I had to play up on the neck to get the effect during our-then-one guitarist's solos and let the box be the bass. It was "OK", but sometimes a bit awkward. So I researched 'boxes' that went both ways(ahem?)and found the EHX to be the best for my needs. TBH, I don't use it a lot these days but it stays in the gigmobile handy if I wanna hook it up.(I try to minimize underfoot wires, cables, etc.)

 

[bylar13]

No I meant the issue with the bridge, where parts fall off and intonation issues.

I have a '74 Ric 4001 and a 2014 Thunderbird. The public perception of the "short comings" of each of these basses is somewhat similar in my opinion.

The Ric bridge system flaws, which exist, are WAY overstated. As mentioned earlier, the older Ric bridges can be subject to tail lift but the majority do not in a meaningful way.

A newer, Allparts or later (post 80's) Rickenbacker bridge should be fine, if the original needs replacing on an older bass. The saddles on the Ric bridge are removable, when all the strings are removed, just like a 3-point bridge on a Thunderbird. Solution? Don't remove all the strings at once or lift the bass in a vertical direction with the strings off and you should have no issues.

It is easy to replace the adjustment screw on the Ric saddle with 1/4 (I think) hex head screws. This allows for loosening string and using a standard allen wrench to adjust the saddle travel. Very easy in my opinion.

My, 74' had a cracked headstock, tail lift and really weak output pickups when I got if from a pawn shop in Portland. The headstock repair was done, it has more modern, higher output Ric pick ups with adjustable pole pieces (saved the originals) and a 2016 Ric bridge. I also bypassed the .047 cap ( present on all Ric basses prior to the early 1980's as a way to limit the low end output) on the bridge pickup to give it a extra shot of low end.

The Thunderbird and the Ric are much maligned by folks who often time have not played one or are inflexible on how they approach playing an instrument. (Wider strap to solve neck dive?!?! NEVER! )

My point after this long rant is take in the info about the short comings, understand it but don't allow it the become a "fact" for you unless its your actual experience.

 

[Engle]

27077981[/URL], member: 380110"]Got a question, do Greco basses have the same awful issue with the bridge than Rickenbackers do? I'd like to save up and maybe get a Greco Rickenbacker as my 2nd bass.

If the bridge looks the same, it’s probably a faithful copy, including flaws.
But don’t let that stop you if you find a nice one. Tail lift can be fixed by adding 2 mounting screws. And a bit of extra time setting intonation? It’s not a big deal.
My MIJ Ric is a beautiful playing and sounding instrument.

 

[TBird1958]

I'll chime in and say, indeed it is. Just outstanding.

Even if the whole "life-coaching" thing is a little sketchy at times.

To my knowledge, I've not converted one of you fine fellows over to the joys of being a Queen.......

The whole Thunderbird buying thing is another story

 

[TBird1958]

I have a '74 Ric 4001 and a 2014 Thunderbird. The public perception of the "short comings" of each of these basses is somewhat similar in my opinion.

The Ric bridge system flaws, which exist, are WAY overstated. As mentioned earlier, the older Ric bridges can be subject to tail lift but the majority do not in a meaningful way.

A newer, Allparts or later (post 80's) Rickenbacker bridge should be fine, if the original needs replacing on an older bass. The saddles on the Ric bridge are removable, when all the strings are removed, just like a 3-point bridge on a Thunderbird. Solution? Don't remove all the strings at once or lift the bass in a vertical direction with the strings off and you should have no issues.

It is easy to replace the adjustment screw on the Ric saddle with 1/4 (I think) hex head screws. This allows for loosening string and using a standard allen wrench to adjust the saddle travel. Very easy in my opinion.

My, 74' had a cracked headstock, tail lift and really weak output pickups when I got if from a pawn shop in Portland. The headstock repair was done, it has more modern, higher output Ric pick ups with adjustable pole pieces (saved the originals) and a 2016 Ric bridge. I also bypassed the .047 cap ( present on all Ric basses prior to the early 1980's as a way to limit the low end output) on the bridge pickup to give it a extra shot of low end.

The Thunderbird and the Ric are much maligned by folks who often time have not played one or are inflexible on how they approach playing an instrument. (Wider strap to solve neck dive?!?! NEVER! )

My point after this long rant is take in the info about the short comings, understand it but don't allow it the become a "fact" for you unless its your actual experience.


View attachment 4910500

View attachment 4910498

Very well said.

I really miss my '73 4001, it was a great bass.

My MPC has "tail lift" too - Love it!

 

[Engle]

Very well said.

I really miss my '73 4001, it was a great bass.

My MPC has "tail lift" too - Love it!

Sweet! Two screws will fix it

 

[PaleAngel_90]

I have a '74 Ric 4001 and a 2014 Thunderbird. The public perception of the "short comings" of each of these basses is somewhat similar in my opinion.

The Ric bridge system flaws, which exist, are WAY overstated. As mentioned earlier, the older Ric bridges can be subject to tail lift but the majority do not in a meaningful way.

A newer, Allparts or later (post 80's) Rickenbacker bridge should be fine, if the original needs replacing on an older bass. The saddles on the Ric bridge are removable, when all the strings are removed, just like a 3-point bridge on a Thunderbird. Solution? Don't remove all the strings at once or lift the bass in a vertical direction with the strings off and you should have no issues.

It is easy to replace the adjustment screw on the Ric saddle with 1/4 (I think) hex head screws. This allows for loosening string and using a standard allen wrench to adjust the saddle travel. Very easy in my opinion.

My, 74' had a cracked headstock, tail lift and really weak output pickups when I got if from a pawn shop in Portland. The headstock repair was done, it has more modern, higher output Ric pick ups with adjustable pole pieces (saved the originals) and a 2016 Ric bridge. I also bypassed the .047 cap ( present on all Ric basses prior to the early 1980's as a way to limit the low end output) on the bridge pickup to give it a extra shot of low end.

The Thunderbird and the Ric are much maligned by folks who often time have not played one or are inflexible on how they approach playing an instrument. (Wider strap to solve neck dive?!?! NEVER! )

My point after this long rant is take in the info about the short comings, understand it but don't allow it the become a "fact" for you unless its your actual experience.


View attachment 4910500

View attachment 4910498

That's why I was asking, it's hard to know what's the truth from the misinformation or outright lies.

 

[TBird1958]

Sweet! Two screws will fix it

That bass is tank, the bridge is no more likely to move than one of the Pyramids.

It's a balmy 19 degrees (-7.2C) here in Seattle this morning, how's Vancouver?

 

[Chucky Stiletti]

That bass is tank, the bridge is no more likely to move than one of the Pyramids.

It's a balmy 19 degrees (-7.2C) here in Seattle this morning, how's Vancouver?

little chilly for Seattle huh? hey how are you liking that Electra? have you tried it in a band setting yet?….always curious about those…..kinda like Ovation Magnums, in their own class….

 

[D.M.N.]

No I meant the issue with the bridge, where parts fall off and intonation issues.

Hmm, can't say I'm familiar with those issues. I'll assume you mean the part of the bridge assembly with the saddles on it being free-floating, and potentially falling out if you remove all the strings and pick the bass up? Can't say I'd call that a big issue, as it's never had an impact on the instrument's playability. And the design intonates just fine, though I will admit it can be a pain to adjust the intonation given the accessibility of the screws. Luckily once you DO have the intonation set, it's not something you need to frequently futz with.

There are alternatives you can use though, such as the Hipshot bridge, the old Stars replacement, the newer Rick V2 bridge, and the Babicz saddles which retrofit the original design.

 

[Thumper]

To continue our no search policy, with apologies for my poor memory (too much fun 1968-78 didn't help), are the Epi Goth PUPs Gibson, or are they Asian knockoffs?

 

[bylar13]

That's why I was asking, it's hard to know what's the truth from the misinformation or outright lies.

I hear you. I avoided Gibson basses for 30 plus years because of the folklore I believed!

 

[bylar13]

To continue our no search policy, with apologies for my poor memory (too much fun 1968-78 didn't help), are the Epi Goth PUPs Gibson, or are they Asian knockoffs?

If memory serves, they are Asia. Here is link to cheap one. Send a low ball offer and then you will have physical confirmation!

Invalid Link Removed

 

[GBassNorth]

To continue our no search policy, with apologies for my poor memory (too much fun 1968-78 didn't help), are the Epi Goth PUPs Gibson, or are they Asian knockoffs?

The Eppi Goth pups are unique to Eppi, nothing like a Gibson pup in sound, shape or size.
They are wound very hot, IIRC about 14 ohms. They have a very nice shoulder on them for thumb placement. They are as long as some five string soap bar pickups. If you don’t like the look you can easily cut the shoulder off each end and cover them with after market metal cans and trim rings. With the same tone cap as a Gibby I do find them to be a bit more low mid focused. With a .022 tone cap they are screaming wide range monsters.

 

[Thumper]

The Eppi Goth pups are unique to Eppi, nothing like a Gibson pup in sound, shape or size.
They are wound very hot, IIRC about 14 ohms. They have a very nice shoulder on them for thumb placement. They are as long as some five string soap bar pickups. If you don’t like the look you can easily cut the shoulder off each end and cover them with after market metal cans and trim rings. With the same tone cap as a Gibby I do find them to be a bit more low mid focused. With a .022 tone cap they are screaming wide range monsters.

Plus I do have ProBuckers if I don't like them, and I also have a wenge neck

 

[Engle]

27077981[/URL], member: 380110"]Got a question, do Greco basses have the same awful issue with the bridge than Rickenbackers do? I'd like to save up and maybe get a Greco Rickenbacker as my 2nd bass.

If the bridge looks the same, it’s probably a faithful copy, including flaws.

That bass is tank, the bridge is no more likely to move than one of the Pyramids.

It's a balmy 19 degrees (-7.2C) here in Seattle this morning, how's Vancouver?

A little warmer today, only -9C
This is what I was faced with on Tuesday morning:

 

[Engle]

The Eppi Goth pups are unique to Eppi, nothing like a Gibson pup in sound, shape or size.
They are wound very hot, IIRC about 14 ohms. They have a very nice shoulder on them for thumb placement. They are as long as some five string soap bar pickups. If you don’t like the look you can easily cut the shoulder off each end and cover them with after market metal cans and trim rings. With the same tone cap as a Gibby I do find them to be a bit more low mid focused. With a .022 tone cap they are screaming wide range monsters.

I’m going to try that .022 cap in my Explorer.

 

[GBassNorth]

Plus I do have ProBuckers if I don't like them, and I also have a wenge neck

The ProBuckers are a drop in replacement as long as you use the trim rings to cover the original Goth pup route. The trim rings will just barely cover the gap. The Goth neck pocket is probably smaller than a standard fender neck heel, so you’ll likely need to shape the wenge neck to fit the pocket. Don’t plan on using the Goth tuners on the new neck, they’re garbage and basically throw aways. The three point bridge works fine but the Hipshot replacement is a much better design and really looks nice on the Goth.

 

[dagrev]

To my knowledge, I've not converted one of you fine fellows over to the joys of being a Queen.......

The whole Thunderbird buying thing is another story

Yeah, that dog don't hunt with me. Flannel shirt or t-shirt, jeans and boots are ideal for me. Not your kind of boots, just to clarify.

As to the second point, you and the others are clearly over-over-achievers! But I love it and wouldn't do any extra Thunderbird buying differently. But y'all can ease up a bit once in a while!

Bonus: By you starting this thread, I have got to "meet" and interact with some super people I otherwise would have not known.

 

[dagrev]

That's why I was asking, it's hard to know what's the truth from the misinformation or outright lies.

Misinformation sounds like information, but is wrong.