Thunderbird Club

[MCF]

4x8x18mm Baltic Birch was $200
Casters $20
Deft $40

I already had the screws and Titebond III.

P.S. I updated the plans but it is available at the same link I previously posted.

That is cheap. Are you really going to make me find that link and download updated plans from how many pages back?

Anyway, what I was going to ask is that if I bought all the materials and came up to visit when I pick up the TV Silver from Geo that he’s working on, can you help me make one? I do not have the right tools. I’ll bring beer, be good company, and talk to you about building a teardrop…

 

[MCF]

I resemble that remark.

I'll let y'all figure out which one.

?. I did not mean any offense Hook. Please PM me if I said anything…

 

[JIO]

I’d play that.

You probably did when I brought it for the first T-bird GTG in '22. It was "in the room" - only bass w/a creme hs! (anyone attending have a better pic of it?)

Of note: V enjoying my '64 II - hers sitting very jealously in the foreground... ... "V... don't fondle that hussy!" ("the nerve!")

 

[MCF]

You probably did when I brought it for the first T-bird GTG in '22. It was "in the room" - only bass w/a creme hs! (anyone attending have a better pic of it?)

Of note: V enjoying my '64 II - hers sitting very jealously in the foreground...

View attachment 5195960

It’s all a blur at this point GEO. Between ‘22 and ‘23, I have a hard time remembering. Next year I’ll be recording voice memos on my phone.

 

[Stealth57]

That is cheap. Are you really going to make me find that link and download updated plans from how many pages back?

Anyway, what I was going to ask is that if I bought all the materials and came up to visit when I pick up the TV Silver from Geo that he’s working on, can you help me make one? I do not have the right tools. I’ll bring beer, be good company, and talk to you about building a teardrop…

Well, I guess it wouldn't have worked anyway. It appears the original link goes to a docx file and not the latest PDF.
Dropbox - Bass Case Rack.pdf - Simplify your life

No problem on helping with the construction. I suggest that where ever you get the 4x8x18mm sheet of Baltic Birch (if you go that way) have them make two cuts (cross cut at 5' and then long cut of the 5' section) so you end up with smaller pieces per this photo. As a side note, if you don't want patches on one side of the wood, ask for cabinet grade.

The issue will be sealing it with Deft as that takes 3 coats on each side and 2 hours between coats. So, maybe the best thing to do is dry fit everything and then you can seal, screw, and glue when you get home.

 

[semiprohooker]

?. I did not mean any offense Hook. Please PM me if I said anything…

Lolol. Failed attempt at humor.

I said RESEMBLE not resent. No worries at all. Never worry about offending me.

 

[Stealth57]

Lolol. Failed attempt at humor.

I said RESEMBLE not resent. No worries at all. Never worry about offending me.

We should have thrown an ahem in there somewhere.

 

[MCF]

Got it, I think we’re saying the same thing. The after market bridges from Hipshot and babicz both impart a dead vertical upward pulling force which is exactly what these inserts were not designed to deal with since they are friction press fit vs threaded type inserts. With the right part number those after market bridge options become less problematic and don’t compound the pull out issue. That said, I have had a three point pull out as well, due to the lateral forces of the strings, hence my original comment about these type of inserts (vs threaded inserts) being a short coming in the original three point design potentially compounded by the vertical lift design of the aftermarket bridges if not properly specd.

For basses, because of the significant increased tension versus guitars, there should be threaded inserts. Only God knows why there aren’t. I suspect DeCola and others at Gibson have discussed this. The cost to fix it would be minuscule, given the price increases for everything recently.

 

[TBird1958]

You probably did when I brought it for the first T-bird GTG in '22. It was "in the room" - only bass w/a creme hs! (anyone attending have a better pic of it?)

Of note: V enjoying my '64 II - hers sitting very jealously in the foreground...

View attachment 5195960

Like this

 

[JIO]

It’s all a blur at this point GEO. Between ‘22 and ‘23, I have a hard time remembering. Next year I’ll be recording voice memos on my phone.

We'll need added video footage to further prove your attendance.

Like this

PROOF!

 

[JIO]

For basses, because of the significant increased tension versus guitars, there should be threaded inserts. Only God knows why there aren’t. I suspect DeCola and others at Gibson have discussed this. The cost to fix it would be minuscule, given the price increases for everything recently.

It would need to be reverse threaded, but otherwise that would be a logical solution to a chronic issue. I hope they are not going the RIC (bridge) route of "we're not changing it because... it's vintage" (regardless of it initially being a bad design) ...

 

[MCF]

Well, I guess it wouldn't have worked anyway. It appears the original link goes to a docx file and not the latest PDF.
Dropbox - Bass Case Rack.pdf - Simplify your life

No problem on helping with the construction. I suggest that where ever you get the 4x8x18mm sheet of Baltic Birch (if you go that way) have them make two cuts (cross cut at 5' and then long cut of the 5' section) so you end up with smaller pieces per this photo. As a side note, if you don't want patches on one side of the wood, ask for cabinet grade.

View attachment 5195967
The issue will be sealing it with Deft as that takes 3 coats on each side and 2 hours between coats. So, maybe the best thing to do is dry fit everything and then you can seal, screw, and glue when you get home.

Thanks Dave. We will work something out. As I said, that will be perfect for the music room I’m getting sorted. So long as we can cut a “kit,” I can finish the wood, install the casters, and assemble it.

It looks awesome!

 

[MCF]

Thanks George!!
Extremely informative.
And when it goes to the shop for modding, I’m just going to have my tech do the Fender type mount.
At least that’ll be full proof.
I’d love to go 2 piece.
But I think the only thing that’s available, but doesn’t fit according to specs.
Is the one Philadelphia Luthier Supply sells for a Gibson.
But no biggy, I like the screw option.

I’d go Babicz tor Fender mount then if that’s where you’re going. Just my two cents, taking my Babicz love into account.

 

[MCF]

Thanks Marshall, if it doesn’t I’ll simply do George’s suggestion.[/QUOTE

Noyhing Wong with that!

 

[Nocturnal]

Didn't someone here screw the Hipshot Supertone bridge plate to the body by drilling holes in it and screwing the bridge plate to the body? @GBassNorth maybe?

 

[MCF]

Hummm.., I've had a Supertone in my Saundersbird for years with no issues. Having it set-up as a string-thru certainly helps draw the bridge into the body, so there's that.

View attachment 5195820

String-thru or a claw will solve 99% of the issues.

 

[Stealth57]

Like this

Marshall working the beer flute.

 

[JJR58]

I’d go Babicz tor Fender mount then if that’s where you’re going. Just my two cents, taking my Babicz love into account.

No point in spending that kinda money.
Screws are much cheaper.

 

[BklynKen]

Here's my one slight issue with Babicz. It's right-hand biased. If strung left-handed, one of the intonation sliders blocks the third bolt, if you want to remove it. It's not symmetrical in that way. So if you want to take out that bolt for some reason, you have to slide the slider thingy back out of the way. If strung right-handed, it stays clear.

 

[BklynKen]

I've had some fun installing the EMGs. They're solderless unless you can't use the included output jack, which is too short for the modern Thunderbirds which use the barrel jack. So that part needs to be soldered. I'm not set up for that, so I just put in the included jack and left it loose. Then I realized I have no need for a tone knob, so I redid it and boom. Before and after: