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Thunderbird Club

I was told to post here so here goes.

My Thunderbird Pro IV - absolutely great instrument. I’m so pleased with this bass, it’s going to be my one and only bass (well let’s see how that goes).
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Here’s my first bass that I owned for only a week before the Pro IV came out for sale for bargain.
This one is currently for sale.
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And since this thread seem to contain a little bit of everything, here’s my Thunderbird I’ve had since I was 14 (17 years now).
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Currently looks like this
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Nice ride!
 
Used to...........

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Oh man! The NR8! I bought this bass from Mark and owned it for a few years. Talk about angry piano. It sounded glorious but redefined "neck dive". I ended up selling it to Jeff Ament.
 
Oh man! The NR8! I bought this bass from Mark and owned it for a few years. Talk about angry piano. It sounded glorious but redefined "neck dive". I ended up selling it to Jeff Ament.

I'm still trying to get it back from him!

BTW Mr. Jackson says "Hello"
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Here you go Mike, a pair of GMH Aussie assembly 62’s. A BelAir & a Pontiac Laurentian. The top of the GMH tree in 1962. Blue Flame 6 and 3 on the tree manual but leather seats and nice carpet. I think we didn’t get the 289 V8 and auto til 64.

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When I was in high school, if you were seen driving a 4-door sedan it was yer parent's car. 2-doors only.
 
If I could afford the expense and time I would. It would be a way better project than that totalled Rickenbacker I was handed down.
If it weren't quite such a wreck I'd do it.

Totally understood.
I mean a lot depends on someone’s skill level, and what they’re willing to tackle.
I’ve got no skills what so ever in that department.
 
For sure you could make it work.
Given the bridge mod, and without the pickups , it's not worth $300 IMO.

If you’re after a project and don’t mind sinking far more money in a bass than it’s worth, go for it. But for me it would be a hard pass.

On neck thru and set neck basses a refin (which this bass is badly in need of) will run between $500 and $700 from a pro shop and then you’d still need trim rings (if you can find some that fit those pickups) and that’s just the cosmetic stuff. The structural stuff with the headstock repair and possibly having to redo the bridge anchors along with the $300 purchase price throws the bass into the North of $1000 bracket. That’s a no go on a VP for me considering there are pristine models out there at about half that price.

Should Roger get it at a reasonable price, there is a shop in Providence that did the Silverburst refin on my Gibson shortie. They did a really nice job. I’d have to search my old posts to recall who did it should @Count Bassie need the info. I suspect he would be familiar with them. Certainly willing to help if needed.

Thanks you guys for all the Chime-ins, after seeing the reply from @TBird1958 I was sold on there no-sale. More all these confirmations (and @Engle ) I'm done for sure.
I probably just need to chill ... And I played the CP last night at a gig and there's nothing wrong with that bass. Between my two regular players I've really got everything covered.
Should practice what I like to preach...
 
Thanks you guys for all the Chime-ins, after seeing the reply from @TBird1958 I was sold on there no-sale. More all these confirmations (and @Engle ) I'm done for sure.
I probably just need to chill ... And I played the CP last night at a gig and there's nothing wrong with that bass. Between my two regular players I've really got everything covered.
Should practice what I like to preach...

To me, the bottom line is you’re an awesome player.
That’s what counts.
 
Nice - curious as to why you didn't just make them solid? They do look cool being waffled. :)
That pic was taken early in the print. The finished product is solid on the outsides.The software (called a slicer) that instructs the printer how to build up the piece, defaults to using waffle structures like that on the inside. I could probably set it up to make them solid, but there's no need.
Here are two of the finished parts. The shiny surface is the bottom. That texture comes from the surface of the build plate. The other surface is the top.
When installing them, I had to file off a bit of one edge so they would sit tight against the center section. I can incorporate that in the model next time.
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