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Thunderbird Club

Gee thanks! I should do a dedicated thread to the mods on it.

I love Epiphones, but prefer the Gibson headstock shape. There are some Epiphones, like my Spirit doublecut that have it:
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Did someone say Gibson headstock shape ?
 

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I really like those block inlays! Wish Gibson or Epiphone would do something like that too...maybe a bound neck too. It wouldn't take a lot to bling a Gibby or Epi!
This is another great idea that Gibson keeps passing on...... Which LPs (other than Jrs) have small dot markers again....?

I think this thread alone, if listened to, could make Gibson some money and make their basses like Fenders, who don't make them just because they always have made a few. They want to be known for basses (as much as for Strats), and have them all over the music industry. I'm know nothing about marketing, but if I wanted to keep my bass line small, generally unseen at shows, and never compete for a fraction of the Fender market, I would do exactly what Gibson is doing.
 
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Hey y'all. My first tortie pick guard
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Maybe I should ask this in another forum. I have filed to adjust a high bone or corian nut and just filed a little and tried until it felt good. If it went a little too far I used the super glue and file shavings to build up.
I put a brass nut on a bass and it’s too high on the E and A. Is there a more controlled method to use since super glue won’t fix it if I file too deep? I know there’s a lot of modders here so looking for a measurable way to file. I appreciate any help! I looked online but even more confused!
 
Maybe I should ask this in another forum. I have filed to adjust a high bone or corian nut and just filed a little and tried until it felt good. If it went a little too far I used the super glue and file shavings to build up.
I put a brass nut on a bass and it’s too high on the E and A. Is there a more controlled method to use since super glue won’t fix it if I file too deep? I know there’s a lot of modders here so looking for a measurable way to file. I appreciate any help! I looked online but even more confused!

you can shim the whole brass nut underneath with quality (thicc) printer paper, go slow, so you don't have to.
 
you can shim the whole brass nut underneath with quality (thicc) printer paper, go slow, so you don't have to.
You mean if I cut too deep? I'll use the file a little bit at a time and try it until it feels better.
I saw online about using an automotive feeler gauge to use as a height stop for the file. Sound familiar to anyone here? I'm having 2nd thoughts on buying that brass nut!
Ahhh...maybe I should just take to a luthier!
 
You mean if I cut too deep? I'll use the file a little bit at a time and try it until it feels better.
I saw online about using an automotive feeler gauge to use as a height stop for the file. Sound familiar to anyone here? I'm having 2nd thoughts on buying that brass nut!
Ahhh...maybe I should just take to a luthier!

I just file a bit and then play it, once I'm close, I file less OR play it the next day and see if my opinion has changed on whether it's low enough...

It's fine to pay somebunny to do it, but they will just do it to a set specification, it may not be what your mood that day/week/month likes...

I have brass on a few basses and it's mostly because I have some brass stock laying around, not for "tonal" qualities...
 
I just file a bit and then play it, once I'm close, I file less OR play it the next day and see if my opinion has changed on whether it's low enough...

It's fine to pay somebunny to do it, but they will just do it to a set specification, it may not be what your mood that day/week/month likes...

I have brass on a few basses and it's mostly because I have some brass stock laying around, not for "tonal" qualities...

I built a 7ender parts bass and added the brass nut. Should've stuck to what I usually used.
My wife said I overthink everything! She's probably right...I think? Ha!
 
I built a 7ender parts bass and added the brass nut. Should've stuck to what I usually used.
My wife said I overthink everything! She's probably right...I think? Ha!

I have some aluminum stock too and I did a couple with that too, I'm going to make an ebony nut for my ric 5 string conversion.... no reason behind it....
 
I built a 7ender parts bass and added the brass nut. Should've stuck to what I usually used.
My wife said I overthink everything! She's probably right...I think? Ha!
Overthinking bass matters. Not possible!

Of course I think most all of us here have a wee touch of neurosis when it comes to bass and tone. I know I do.
 
This is another great idea that Gibson keeps passing on...... Which LPs (other than Jrs) have small dot markers again....?

I think this thread alone, if listened to, could make Gibson some money and make their basses like Fenders, who don't make them just because they always have made a few. They want to be known for basses (as much as for Strats), and have them all over the music industry. I'm know nothing about marketing, but if I wanted to keep my bass line small, generally unseen at shows, and never compete for a fraction of the Fender market, I would do exactly what Gibson is doing.

I totally agree! I would scour these forums for info on what the players are talking about and what they are suggesting as updates or even issues!
If I'm trying out a new recipe I look online for suggestions. I don't just sit there and think "what would make this taste better?" I read what other people have tried. Note: Some recipes online suck!
 
Maybe I should ask this in another forum. I have filed to adjust a high bone or corian nut and just filed a little and tried until it felt good. If it went a little too far I used the super glue and file shavings to build up.
I put a brass nut on a bass and it’s too high on the E and A. Is there a more controlled method to use since super glue won’t fix it if I file too deep? I know there’s a lot of modders here so looking for a measurable way to file. I appreciate any help! I looked online but even more confused!
I've never measured the string height at the nut, but here is what I do anyway:
I file a bit, put the string back, press down between frets 2 & 3, tap the string against the first fret to check, and repeat as necessary. There should be just enough clearance for the string to make a tapping sound.

Make sure you are always filing at an angle, so where the string leaves the nut at the fingerboard is the high point of the slot.
 
I've never measured the string height at the nut, but here is what I do anyway:
I file a bit, put the string back, press down between frets 2 & 3, tap the string against the first fret to check, and repeat as necessary. There should be just enough clearance for the string to make a tapping sound.

Make sure you are always filing at an angle, so where the string leaves the nut at the fingerboard is the high point of the slot.
Thanks for that info!
 
I didn't notice at first ( was pointed out to me on the Facebook Thunderbird group) but they did change the specs on the 64, they added neck angle at the heel. Can't say I'm wild about it. First image is my tobacco sunburst VP, second picture is the new Inverness 64.
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I did some research on the Kawai bass I picked up the other day for $200. It is a 1966 SB100 that is a full 34" scale. Most of what I have seen from Japan in that time period were short scale, like my National. Based on what I see on Reverb, I got a deal...of course, people advertise prices that may or may not be realistic. Keep in mind the one on Reverb is missing the bridge cover and that funky mid-string guard. There is a video with a sound demo.

Video Demo 1966 Kawai Full Scale SB100 Dual Pickup Pro Setup New Hard Shell Case | Reverb