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Thunderbird Club

I know nothing of the stuff. Had never even heard of it until the picture earlier. I went to go look up what the heck it was and saw that.
I have ordered it two times over the years. The first was apparently the original, the second sounds like the "new" version, but it was likely 3yrs or more. GHS used to carry a version. It was from Jimmy Johnson, but had their name on it.

I liked it for a quick go over the frets and fretboard separately with the original moist cloth. I couldn't get past feeling like I would be wiping all the black junk off the frets and into the fretboard, so I did them independently. The Nomad fret polish Marshall mentioned is really good, albeit a slightly more involved.

For quick conditioning of the FB, I used Ernie Ball Wonder Wipes. No need to remove the strings as it doesn't hurt them, and its easy enough to move them around. Easy way to condition the FB if you don't need or want to take the strings off. Willy uses mineral oil (baby oil) on FBs, and that's all I want to know about Willy and Baby Oil.....
 
Who’s going to buy it?
Gibson Mod Collection Non-Reverse Thunderbird in Truly AMAZING Custom Finish "Let Freedom Bling" 2023 | Reverb

IMG_2150.jpeg
 
I have ordered it two times over the years. The first was apparently the original, the second sounds like the "new" version, but it was likely 3yrs or more. GHS used to carry a version. It was from Jimmy Johnson, but had their name on it.

I liked it for a quick go over the frets and fretboard separately with the original moist cloth. I couldn't get past feeling like I would be wiping all the black junk off the frets and into the fretboard, so I did them independently. The Nomad fret polish Marshall mentioned is really good, albeit a slightly more involved.

For quick conditioning of the FB, I used Ernie Ball Wonder Wipes. No need to remove the strings as it doesn't hurt them, and its easy enough to move them around. Easy way to condition the FB if you don't need or want to take the strings off. Willy uses mineral oil (baby oil) on FBs, and that's all I want to know about Willy and Baby Oil.....
I finally used up my Dunlop lemon oil bottle I've had for YEARS and just recently bought a bottle of that F1 oil after somebody (probably Marshall) was talking about it on here. I don't think I've ever polished any of my frets. Hmmm, maybe on my next go round.
 
As far a finger-boards go since we're in the vicinity talking about frets - I got this from a very expert source. When a neck is made the maker treats the fb with a sealer that absorbs into the wood. Stew Mac Classic Fingerboard Oil was recommended for builders here on tb. If that wasn't done, in other words if left raw wood - it would warp & crack over time. It's a one time application and once cured a fb no long needs oil or fb dressing, at least as a protective/preventative measure. I personally don't have an issue with oiling a fb just to make the wood look better - but that is only considered a cosmetic consideration. Just translating hard facts from a master luthier/woodworker.
Interesting and good to know. I didn't look into it, but wonder if it is something like Tru Oil that EB recommends for their unfinished necks?
 
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Ok vanity plates for the corvette…


The plates I will get are limited to 6 characters…. Can’t use a dash or a space… lame… I could get a plate that allows 8 characters if needed but it’s not as cool.

It’s a red 1992 C4 LT-1 Corvette…..

under 6 characters

92LT1
LTWON
LTWUN
CHEBBY
YURMUM
WILLYW
DUBYAH

7 characters

C4VETTE
LTVETTE
92TACOS

8 characters
LT1VETTE
C4RVETTE

can’t think of anymore right now
I would go with "FORD" just to mess with people and cause the Corvette aficionados to wet their pants.
 
Ok vanity plates for the corvette…


The plates I will get are limited to 6 characters…. Can’t use a dash or a space… lame… I could get a plate that allows 8 characters if needed but it’s not as cool.

It’s a red 1992 C4 LT-1 Corvette…..

under 6 characters

92LT1
LTWON
LTWUN
CHEBBY
YURMUM
WILLYW
DUBYAH

7 characters

C4VETTE
LTVETTE
92TACOS

8 characters
LT1VETTE
C4RVETTE

can’t think of anymore right now
8 characters…
FRETLESS
SHOELESS
HELOKITY
 
I learned many years ago from Michael Dunn to use 0000 steel wool and lemon oil on fingerboards.
If you apply oil to rosewood, and it doesn’t absorb, you just end up wiping most of it off. Usually it looks nicer and smells good.
Michael built some very nice instruments:
Michael Dunn Guitars
That makes sense. Then there is the "don't use anything with citric acid as it actually dries out the wood" group. It makes it confusing because that also makes some sense. Possibly other components in such a mix make up or mitigate the drying. Assuming it's even that much of a problem.

I will say it seems the EB Wonder Wipes do get absorbed, at least to some extent from watching how it dissipates. Some places stay damp longer than others. I don't discount it might just be a perception.
 
Have low expectations and you'll rarely be disappointed.:thumbsup:
More wisdom there than you may have intended. Or maybe not. You've been on earth a while and experienced many things. Expectations (in a more defined sense) are a major source of disappointment and even depression (and not getting out of depression). It's fine and normal to hope for a thing (knowing it may or may not happen), but if we expect to get, have, etc, a thing, we set ourselves up for real problems because it may or may not happen. Then we are more disappointed than necessary because we were sure (expected) we would get, have a thing. One can even expect a friend to help them and from past experience it seems logical to expect it, but they may not. Thus hoping they will help can lessen some problems, especially if we have high or worse, unrealistic expectations.
 
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It is an often mentioned downside to active basses (batteries dying) - but the truth of the matter is I have active basses where the battery lasts for years. The key is unplugging when not playing which disconnects the circuit. At that point it's just battery storage. At a rehearsal, jam session or gig : turn down volume, set the bass down - unplug. Man that was hard! :rolleyes: If I use an active bass live - I replace the battery with a fresh one before I leave, and I have a new back-up battery close at hand. Never had one fail mid-gig so far though.
My experience as well.

I used to change them every year, but it was pointless. Then I started using the batteries from the smoke detectors which get changed every year. There is likely 75% of life left in them.

G&L bonus: You can play them in passive if the battery dies or even falls out. Genius! Thank you Leo.
 
I finally used up my Dunlop lemon oil bottle I've had for YEARS and just recently bought a bottle of that F1 oil after somebody (probably Marshall) was talking about it on here. I don't think I've ever polished any of my frets. Hmmm, maybe on my next go round.
I've not tried that F1 that Marshall talks about either, but intend to get some.

Cleaning and polishing frets can make them look fantastic. Depending on the composition. Some will just be a nicer shade of dull. But when they look shiny, it makes me play better.




Not really. I haven't found that secret yet.
 
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Thought I’d share some “R&D”

When I installed the Gibson Reissue pickups in my Orville, I found the new pickups were thinner (top to bottom).

I couldn’t really get the new pickups up high enough without running out of thread on the screws. I suppose I could get longer screws, but having recently solved a similar problem when I put a Tbird cover on my Casady’s pickup, I decided to make a pickup spacer with integrated 4-40 nuts. That allows using 4-40 stainless machine screws instead of wood screws.

I had drawn the Casady bracket in a web based Autodesk program called TinkerCad:
View attachment 5404871

Then the file gets imported into Slicer software to run the 3D printer. I figured out how to pause the print, so I could embed the nuts. Then the printer can continue adding plastic layers:
View attachment 5404872
View attachment 5404881 View attachment 5404880

The finished version looked like this:
View attachment 5404879

For the Tbird, I wanted a flatter spacer, and didn’t need that height. I left room for the pickup wire to exit the cavity. I also put a channel underneath so the neck pu wire could travel under the spacer:
View attachment 5404883 View attachment 5404884


Here it is installed. The PLA plastic is pretty weak and I’ve had to epoxy the pieces over the nuts.
View attachment 5404885 View attachment 5404886

This worked and I’m able to get that bridge pickup up high, where it needs to be to keep up with the neck pickup.

……And we’re also printing articulated creatures like this dragon:
View attachment 5404901

As someone who has removed the TB+ pickups in all of my ‘95-‘03 ‘birds, I can see this being something I’d like to have, at least for the bridge pickup. I currently use P90 pickup screws that I got from Philadelphia Luthier, which also have the advantage of having a small screw head that is smooth, so my fingers don’t get torn up while playing, since I frequently anchor my thumb on the edge f the bridge pickup. However, on a couple of them, the screws at just barely long enough and I feel like one day the screw holes in the wood will not grip the short length of screw that is actually in the wood.
 
Ok vanity plates for the corvette…


The plates I will get are limited to 6 characters…. Can’t use a dash or a space… lame… I could get a plate that allows 8 characters if needed but it’s not as cool.

It’s a red 1992 C4 LT-1 Corvette…..

under 6 characters

92LT1
LTWON
LTWUN
CHEBBY
YURMUM
WILLYW
DUBYAH

7 characters

C4VETTE
LTVETTE
92TACOS

8 characters
LT1VETTE
C4RVETTE

can’t think of anymore right now

92TACOS for the win!