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Thunderbird Club

#294,721
JIO said:
I never use finger or thumb rests. If they come on a bass and are in the way - I remove them, otherwise I leave them for vintage reference 'looks'. I use my right-hand pinky as a stilt to ground playing/articulation, usually right behind the bridge pu. Wear-marks there confirm. I have a pic somewhere that illustrates this but it would be exhausting to find it amid thousands of pics.
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I noticed a funky wear spot on a bass I bought between the bridge and the output Jack. Asked the seller and that was where he anchored his pinky as he hammered away with a pick.

Me personally, my thumb kind of wanders wherever it sees fit. Not necessarily anchored but not quite floating string to string anchored either. And I couldn't put a rest anywhere cuz I like to move towards the neck or towards the bridge depending on what I'm going for tonally.
 
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#294,722
Rickplaysbass said:
I noticed a funky wear spot on a bass I bought between the bridge and the output Jack. Asked the seller and that was where he anchored his pinky as he hammered away with a pick.

Me personally, my thumb kind of wanders wherever it sees fit. Not necessarily anchored but not quite floating string to string anchored either. And I couldn't put a rest anywhere cuz I like to move towards the neck or towards the bridge depending on what I'm going for tonally.
Click to expand...

Yes, different strokes for different folks. My right hand primarily lives near the bridge on all basses I play, either side. That is not to say that for a specific passage on a specific song I'll articulate in various locations from over the fb heal to below the bridge pu. My one issue with a standard V/V/T T-bird is how close the controls are to the G-string. A number of times live I have inadvertantly turned down the N-pu control articulating near there mid song. It's why on my own custom Fender-bird bass (Gojira) - I angled the controls away from where I play.

upload_2024-6-8_19-58-36.jpeg

I did the same on my Teiscobird, which originally had the controls parallel to the G-string like on a T-bird.
upload_2024-6-8_20-6-39.jpeg
 
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#294,724
Chucky Stiletti said:
and a Kasino in the back?…….:D
you’ve always played flats?
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No. I played whatever came on the bass, but somewhere along the line, especially when I was no longer playing 6 nites a week, I noticed what rounds did to my fingers-sorta important-and my frets-very important-so I went first with nylons then with flats. One of my favorites was Ernie Ball "Red Tubies", a medium red nylon tape wrapped string. Not as smooth feeling as later nylons, but great tone. I called Ernie Ball c.s. They had no idea what I was talking about(I had mine in ~76). I saw a set offered on the bay-shoulda bought them.:oops:
 
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#294,725
JIO said:
Yes, different strokes for different folks. My right hand primarily lives near the bridge on all basses I play, either side. That is not to say that for a specific passage on a specific song I'll articulate in various locations from over the fb heal to below the bridge pu. My one issue with a standard V/V/T T-bird is how close the controls are to the G-string. A number of times live I have inadvertantly turned down the N-pu control articulating near there mid song. It's why on my own custom Fender-bird bass (Gojira) - I angled the controls away from where I play.

View attachment 5473859
I did the same on my Teiscobird, which originally had the controls parallel to the G-string like on a T-bird.
View attachment 5473861
Click to expand...
A fan of those kick ass bridges I see.
 
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#294,730
Rickplaysbass said:
I have one on my P and one on my J. I'm with ya.
Click to expand...

I don't want to take anything away from a Leo Quan 'original' - but... at its introduction it was primarily geared to be installed by an experienced individual modder, or a tech. (filing string slots & correct installation) They upgraded it a few times over the years with dedicated slots etc, but then Fender 'cloned' it (with sub-standard MIC casting IMO) at a similar time when Hipshot nailed it with adjustable brass inserts and tight/clean casting. A good product at a good price-point that does the job. Score for Hipshot. :thumbsup:

The thing you may not have noticed looking at my two examples, is that the KA bridge allows for Fender & Gibson spacing. Because the brass saddles can shift side-to-side, one can dial in both string spacings. The E & G 'pinches in' a bit for Gibson spacing, but regardless - it works.
 
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#294,731
JIO said:
The new Corvette's are pretty cool looking. I'm generally not a blue person, but that's a great blue.

View attachment 5473642
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I do like the looks of those as much as I like the C4, but if I’m looking at that money on a car I’d much rather have a Ford Thunderbolt.

The C4 Corvette is the only chebbie I’ll ever love. Except maybe a 62 convertible Corvette but again for that kinda money we are back to the thunderbolt…

IMG_4213.jpeg
 

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#294,734
PhR75 said:
Basically Fenderbird time too!
View attachment 5473995

This was from Thursday 'though...

Last night I played a gig using the Squier Rascal. Worked great and it's been ages since I played a short scale on a gig. It's a big and a heavy bass but you still have to play it more lightly so it needs some "mindset" so to speak.
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"They" said we wouldn't hafta use our minds.
 
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#294,735
Gig report! The Ozzy Sabbath tribute I am in just got a new guitar player and he makes all the difference! Frankly we were struggling before. Jim comes in and nails it to the wall with two rehersal. The venue was so impressed they are going to make room in the summer schedule for us, they like many venues are booked well over a year in advance. We went on at 8:30 to a iffy forecast by 9:00 the place was packed. This is the first number of the set. It felt great to be back on stage.
 
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#294,737
Stealth57 said:
I am looking for a solid shaft pot for my Peavey build. Apparently, the combination of features I am looking for only come in split shaft. That would mean I would have a mix of solid and split shaft pots. Has anyone tried to use set screw knobs on a split shaft?
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I think if you put a shim into the split part of the pot shaft the set screw would tighten down just fine.
 
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