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Thunderbird Club

Could be done, but it would require some refinishing since the bridge doesn't cover much and it would show. I never looked into getting the anchors out but sure Irv and others would know how to do it. I played it tonight and tested a few strings and I'm not sure it's going to be a problem. Not until I get the next call for studio work or a project someone wants be to do for a while. But no problem I have other basses for when that happens.

OK, who am I kidding? That's not likely. The days of getting calls to work on things are long gone.
Moving the bridge isn't hard on a solid body bass. Get the right size dowels of wood similar to the body, and plug the holes (possibly using a tiny bit of glue). Then drill new ones where needed.
Now if you need to paint, that's another story. I can't help with that. The bridge I moved (OK, replaced the horrid original with) covered the offending real estate, and the wood was oil finished, not painted, so it wasn't going to match, regardless.
 
If you sell me the Thunderbuckers you can buy that bass for the pickups. Just a thought. :woot:
I could. But (at least for the foreseeable future) they aren't going anywhere! Especially since I have two Greco IVs, and both are in better condition than that one. Black basses almost never call to me. If I were to have one, I'd want one black enough to sneak up on a ninja at night.
 
Could be done, but it would require some refinishing since the bridge doesn't cover much and it would show. I never looked into getting the anchors out but sure Irv and others would know how to do it. I played it tonight and tested a few strings and I'm not sure it's going to be a problem. Not until I get the next call for studio work or a project someone wants be to do for a while. But no problem I have other basses for when that happens.

OK, who am I kidding? That's not likely. The days of getting calls to work on things are long gone.
Sorry Donnie, I imagined that it would be a bit easier and cover up more of the work (moved less).
 
Yes, don't think that will change for me either. Rotos was what I used on the '64 decades ago. Went to Infelds SuperAlloys maybe 20 yrs ago (wonderful tone!), and now it has SIT David Ellfeson (Powerwounds as far as anyone can tell). I prefer the Infelds but the SITs likely get me 90-95% there, at a fraction of the cost.
What are you using on your '64?
RS 66 (as you know) work great on them, why try anything else? not a bass I feel comfortable putzing around much with if you know what I mean...
 
OK, now that I’ve had the bass (thank you all for the welcome to the TBird Club) for a hot minute, I have some immediate questions.
1. Straps. I like to use Schaller locks on my other basses- though the straps rarely come off. It would seem to me that if I use it on the back of the neck, I might suffer some kind of self-impalement as the peg sticks out of the back of the instrument and not a horn cuz, well, there ain’t no horn. What do I you do?
2. Bump in back. With the raised section in the back, does anyone make any kind of an application that smooths out the bump so you don’t feel it or it doesn’t get caught on shirt buttons, etc.?
3. This is a dumb question that’ll expose my ignorance, but this is a totally passive bass, right? The cover on the back must be on access the pots, and doesn’t house a 9V battery, right? I know…I should do my research before buying a bass.
4. How do you ever adjust to the HUUUUUUUUUUUUUUGE machine head????
 
Moving the bridge isn't hard on a solid body bass. Get the right size dowels of wood similar to the body, and plug the holes (possibly using a tiny bit of glue). Then drill new ones where needed.
Now if you need to paint, that's another story. I can't help with that. The bridge I moved (OK, replaced the horrid original with) covered the offending real estate, and the wood was oil finished, not painted, so it wasn't going to match, regardless.
Unfortunately the holes would show a lot and need some kind of paint. But it's doable. I don't think it will work, but I do have an extra Gibson bridge that J.T. gave me. Might be a little bigger but I'm thinking the studs are too small on Epis. I can dig it out just to make sure, but it may not provide any more travel.
 
OK, now that I’ve had the bass (thank you all for the welcome to the TBird Club) for a hot minute, I have some immediate questions.
1. Straps. I like to use Schaller locks on my other basses- though the straps rarely come off. It would seem to me that if I use it on the back of the neck, I might suffer some kind of self-impalement as the peg sticks out of the back of the instrument and not a horn cuz, well, there ain’t no horn. What do I you do?
2. Bump in back. With the raised section in the back, does anyone make any kind of an application that smooths out the bump so you don’t feel it or it doesn’t get caught on shirt buttons, etc.?
3. This is a dumb question that’ll expose my ignorance, but this is a totally passive bass, right? The cover on the back must be on access the pots, and doesn’t house a 9V battery, right? I know…I should do my research before buying a bass.
4. How do you ever adjust to the HUUUUUUUUUUUUUUGE machine head????
Assuming I'm understanding you correctly...

1. Straps. I like to use Schaller locks on my other basses- though the straps rarely come off. It would seem to me that if I use it on the back of the neck, I might suffer some kind of self-impalement as the peg sticks out of the back of the instrument... What do I you do?
It will be fine. Unless you maybe hold a bass like Bill Wyman. Might seem odd, but it's not. I have them on all my basses.

2. Bump in back. With the raised section in the back, does anyone make any kind of an application that smooths out the bump so you don’t feel it or it doesn’t get caught on shirt buttons, etc.?
After playing you will find it poses no problem. Had a Thunderbird since about '81/82 and never thought about it or had a problem.

3. This is a dumb question that’ll expose my ignorance, but this is a totally passive bass, right?
Yes, passive, and just an access.

4. How do you ever adjust to the HUUUUUUUUUUUUUUGE machine head????
Pay small person to stand on a stool to do it for you with a monkey wrench.
Okay, that one I made up. The monkey wrench part anyway.
They can be a bit of a reach and they are big, but you'll get used to it in no time. The originals were really tall.
 
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OK, now that I’ve had the bass (thank you all for the welcome to the TBird Club) for a hot minute, I have some immediate questions.
1. Straps. I like to use Schaller locks on my other basses- though the straps rarely come off. It would seem to me that if I use it on the back of the neck, I might suffer some kind of self-impalement as the peg sticks out of the back of the instrument and not a horn cuz, well, there ain’t no horn. What do I you do?
2. Bump in back. With the raised section in the back, does anyone make any kind of an application that smooths out the bump so you don’t feel it or it doesn’t get caught on shirt buttons, etc.?
3. This is a dumb question that’ll expose my ignorance, but this is a totally passive bass, right? The cover on the back must be on access the pots, and doesn’t house a 9V battery, right? I know…I should do my research before buying a bass.
4. How do you ever adjust to the HUUUUUUUUUUUUUUGE machine head????
1. I normally use the stock strap buttons so I'll defer to the rest of the peanut gallery
2. Presumably you could put something back there, but it would add weight. I just got used to it.
3. If it's stock, it's passive. No need to feel bad for asking questions.
4. Are you talking about the headstock? They're big, but if you ever need a paddle of an oar it'll come in handy.