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Thunderbird Club

#35,002
Got my white 2011 Epi Custom Shop TB (which I've posted about before) back from the shop about a month ago, had the nut replaced and they did a setup on it as well (which I paid for). Problem with the setup was that when I got it home and looked at it the bridge was set way high in the rear and way low in the front, which is exactly opposite of what I've read and been told (mostly here) about proper setup for a floating 3-point bridge. Action was also a bit higher than I like it. So I've redone the setup so the bridge is a bit higher in front than back and got the action where I like it (low). The reason it came back that way according to the guy who did the work (very reputable shop, he's done two of my other basses and did a fantastic job on them) was to get rid of a buzz at the 2nd fret on the A string, which was a known issue when I took the bass in to be worked on thinking it was caused by the jacked up nut that I had him replace. When I fret the A string at the 1st fret (A#) I get a very distinct buzz. Goes away when I play the B (press the string down at the 2nd fret) and on up, this is the only place on the entire freaking fingerboard is buzzes and it's making me crazy. I only need that note on a few songs but it's just a real PITA to have to work around.

To me it seems like I could just file the 2nd fret down a bit to get rid of the buzz, the luthier tells me that it's not that simple, that it needs a full fret job to get everything even. Really don't want to put another $100 in it for a full fret job that IMO it doesn't need. If anyone has any input on how to solve this I'm all ears (or eyes as it were). FWIW I did try putting some aluminum foil under the A string at the nut to raise the string a bit at the nut but didn't help so took it back out (I'm obviously no expert).
 
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#35,003
Also had him take a look at the pickups to see what they are and what if any info he could provide on them. If anyone recalls before I bought this bass I'd posted asking if anyone knew anything about the pickups, how they sound etc. @hillerup has one and was helpful, thought I'd post this up just to add to the hive knowledge base. Photo below including a note the luthier added.
2011 Custom Shop Epi Pickup Photo.JPG


Although I don't have a measured reading on the output, I CAN say that these suckers are HOT. Probably the hottest, loudest passive pickups I have on anything I own. Since there are no obvious pole pieces I'm guessing they're a bar type pickup but really don't know much more than the note attached to the photo. Just thought I'd share for anyone interested.
 
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#35,004
EdO. said:
Got my white 2011 Epi Custom Shop TB (which I've posted about before) back from the shop about a month ago, had the nut replaced and they did a setup on it as well (which I paid for). Problem with the setup was that when I got it home and looked at it the bridge was set way high in the rear and way low in the front, which is exactly opposite of what I've read and been told (mostly here) about proper setup for a floating 3-point bridge. Action was also a bit higher than I like it. So I've redone the setup so the bridge is a bit higher in front than back and got the action where I like it (low). The reason it came back that way according to the guy who did the work (very reputable shop, he's done two of my other basses and did a fantastic job on them) was to get rid of a buzz at the 2nd fret on the A string, which was a known issue when I took the bass in to be worked on thinking it was caused by the jacked up nut that I had him replace. When I fret the A string at the 1st fret (A#) I get a very distinct buzz. Goes away when I play the B (press the string down at the 2nd fret) and on up, this is the only place on the entire freaking fingerboard is buzzes and it's making me crazy. I only need that note on a few songs but it's just a real PITA to have to work around.

To me it seems like I could just file the 2nd fret down a bit to get rid of the buzz, the luthier tells me that it's not that simple, that it needs a full fret job to get everything even. Really don't want to put another $100 in it for a full fret job that IMO it doesn't need. If anyone has any input on how to solve this I'm all ears (or eyes as it were). FWIW I did try putting some aluminum foil under the A string at the nut to raise the string a bit at the nut but didn't help so took it back out (I'm obviously no expert).
Click to expand...

In the most technical definition, the luthier is correct. To make it playable filing one fret to be the same height as the frets on either side of it will work fine. I get tools from Philadelphia Luthier Supply (on ebay) and now own the tools to do this type of work myself. FWIW they also sell T-bird pick up rings, covers and screws for anyone looking for them....

Philadelphia Luthier Tools & Supplies Guitar building tools and parts
 
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#35,009
The Analog Kid said:
Thank you for the replies......
Huh, well I guess I may have solved my own problem! I guess the active electronics are just too hot. I turned the bass boost all the way down on the bass, and brought my bass level down on the amp, and its not making that noise. It's not a chorus sound after all, it was almost like an octave down kind of effect.
Now I just have to figure out if I like this bass enough to keep it. I had a goth Tbird and I loved it. This one is a beauty, but just not the sound I'm looking for.
Click to expand...

You could always ditch the original pickups and active electronics, and throw in a pair of good passive pickups instead... ;)

PillO said:
So, good technique or bad technique?

Click to expand...


Most definitely B A D!!!
 
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#35,014
EdO. said:
To me it seems like I could just file the 2nd fret down a bit to get rid of the buzz, the luthier tells me that it's not that simple, that it needs a full fret job to get everything even. Really don't want to put another $100 in it for a full fret job that IMO it doesn't need. If anyone has any input on how to solve this I'm all ears (or eyes as it were). FWIW I did try putting some aluminum foil under the A string at the nut to raise the string a bit at the nut but didn't help so took it back out (I'm obviously no expert).
Click to expand...

There's a shop near me with a PLEK machine @ $279 a go.
 
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#35,018
DerekW said:
So what is the final verdict on the chinabuckers?
I've got a Dillion Bird that plays nice, but I'd like to swap out the pickups. It's got emg 35 size pups in it now, and I'd like to replace them, but not willing to spend a ton on it. And would like to chrome it out.
I own a dremel, and blissful ignorance regarding my lack of woodworking skills... plus you can get the pickup rings to cover my mistakes, lol

The chinabuckers were a "thing" for a while, but no one talks about them much anymore.

So who has them and really likes them? And do they pull of a reasonable facsimile of a thunderbird?
Click to expand...


I put them in my 08 Gibson TBird. I like them a lot better than the stock Gibson TBird+ pickups that I took out of that bass (which didn't sound as good to me as the TB+s in my Les Paul Double Cut Bass or my ES 335 Bass- I quite like the guitar pickup shaped TB+s).
I find the EY "Chinabuckers" a bit clearer and articulate. They sound like a Thunderbird to me, but I don't have a 60s Bird to compare,
I don't have a bass with Thunderbuckers either, so I can't compare to them. I got my pickup rings with the pickups, but bought spacers from Thunderbucker ranch. You may find you need spacers as the EY pickups are quite shallow.
 
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#35,020
rodv66 said:
Your choice,

Ampeg PF 500

Yorkville bassmaster 400. If you make the right choice, she will go on a date with you.View attachment 1171481 View attachment 1171481
Click to expand...
Yeah... I know when I'm lookin' for the marryin' type, I always keep my eyes toward the side of the road, watchin' for a trashy female spreadin' her legs across the front of a cop car. You can always trust them to exercise good judgment;)
 
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