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Thunderbird Club

Yeah, I don't think I've ever seen an 18" one.

12"Beveled flat scales like these were the weapon of choice back in the day but they're a lot more expensive to make.
Architectural Ruler - 6" (Item No. 100217-6) from only $2.65 ready to be imprinted by 4imprint Promotional Products
I preferred those as well, but I have the triangular ones, too. All that stuff is completely obsolete now due to AutoCAD and the like, but I never managed to get anywhere near proficient with the CAD stuff. I never needed to do it every day, which means I forgot how to do it as fast as I learned. Hand drawing is still far faster and more accurate than messing with a computer, at least for me it is.
 
The one I have here is 1:1, 1:100, 1:20, 1:200, 1:5, 1:50, 1:1250, 1:2500 - surprise!
Obviously you're not onboard with 'Making Aremica Grate Agin'
I preferred those as well, but I have the triangular ones, too. All that stuff is completely obsolete now due to AutoCAD and the like, but I never managed to get anywhere near proficient with the CAD stuff. I never needed to do it every day, which means I forgot how to do it as fast as I learned. Hand drawing is still far faster and more accurate than messing with a computer, at least for me it is.

AMEN! got flunkies to do that! Just an email away.
 
I preferred those as well, but I have the triangular ones, too. All that stuff is completely obsolete now due to AutoCAD and the like, but I never managed to get anywhere near proficient with the CAD stuff. I never needed to do it every day, which means I forgot how to do it as fast as I learned. Hand drawing is still far faster and more accurate than messing with a computer, at least for me it is.

I much prefer Solidworks over AutoCAD (3D is a lot easier to manipulate single objects then after you can make it into an assembly) But currently for work I've been using AutoCAD daily, because 99% of the stuff I do is go into the plant and make a drawing of equipment that is already installed, drawing building layouts, or revising old drawings onto CAD. I can't hand draw to save my life though.
 
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I preferred those as well, but I have the triangular ones, too. All that stuff is completely obsolete now due to AutoCAD and the like, but I never managed to get anywhere near proficient with the CAD stuff. I never needed to do it every day, which means I forgot how to do it as fast as I learned. Hand drawing is still far faster and more accurate than messing with a computer, at least for me it is.

I'm a qualified architectural technician ... although not working as one. We were just about the last people who were ever taught to draw. I was really good at AutoCAD etc but I really enjoyed the drawing.

And ArchiCAD was my preferred CAD package.
 
Agree on the serial number. It would be interesting to see the dates on the pups, pots and switches and if the switches are the same brand and type as the 2015 bird switches. If they're all about the same date and that date lines up roughly with the serial number date it may be legit. Until then I'll keep my doubts up and just assume some enterprising anniversary bird owner did what I was planning on doing - buy a Gibby Bird for about $1000 and a set of 2013/14 EB pups for about $200 and some switches for about $50 and a black pickguard for about $75 and a bridge for about $150. So with around $1500 invested they make a sweet little profit of nearly $1000 by hyping it as a prototype.

If it's a legit prototype the asking price is low. If it's not legit it's still a sweet bass priced at least $500 too high. JMHO

Adding the switching is cheap - way less than $50, and a black pg can be cut from a $4 plastic scrap piece. The pu's and bridge are the major aftermarket expense. I mean, it's cool that it's a US made Gibson neck-through but these mods could be added to any bird and sound just as good. And I agree, just stating it is a Gibson prototype isn't quite enough to seal-the-deal, which is suspect. If I were selling that bass I'd contact Gibson and get some sort of official acknowledgment from them before stating such.
 
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Adding the switching is cheap - way less than $50, and a black pg can be cut from a $4 plastic scrap piece. The pu's and bridge are the major aftermarket expense. I mean, it's cool that it's a US made Gibson neck-through but these mods could be added to any bird and sound just as good. And I agree, just stating it is a Gibson prototype isn't quite enough to seal-the-deal, which is suspect. If I was selling that bass I'd contact Gibson and get some sort of official acknowledgment from them before stating such.

That would be the only confirmation, contacting Gibson.
And agreed on all other points.
 
I'm a qualified architectural technician ... although not working as one. We were just about the last people who were ever taught to draw. I was really good at AutoCAD etc but I really enjoyed the drawing.

And ArchiCAD was my preferred CAD package.
I'm a gen-u-wine architect. Most of my career has been in building construction instead of design, with odd twists and turns. I miss seeing hand drawn work, because you could tell just from the line weight what to expect up to a point. CAD looks pretty much the same whether the drafter is competent or not. Hand drawings could be far more expressive and informative if the drafter was a good one. I took great pride in packing all kinds of information into just line weights. And, I have a dial telephone and a record player. Get offa my... Ah, never mind.
 
I mean, it's cool that it's a US made Gibson neck through
I'm a gen-u-wine architect. Most of my career has been in building construction instead of design, with odd twists and turns. I miss seeing hand drawn work, because you could tell just from the line weight what to expect up to a point. CAD looks pretty much the same whether the drafter is competent or not. Hand drawings could be far more expressive and informative if the drafter was a good one. I took great pride in packing all kinds of information into just line weights. And, I have a dial telephone and a record player. Get offa my... Ah, never mind.

No, it's not a "get offa my lawn" thing - it's a fact. A hand drawn line requires a kind of skill that will be lost in a very short time. (once those who are living step off this mortal coil) Like a player with a deft touch in their playing - it's the difference in hearing a baseline played correctly and one being played with nuance and finesse. Bottom line it's a human thing. Long live pencils! (say it loud - say it proud)

IMG_1539 2.jpg
 
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I'm a gen-u-wine architect. Most of my career has been in building construction instead of design, with odd twists and turns. I miss seeing hand drawn work, because you could tell just from the line weight what to expect up to a point. CAD looks pretty much the same whether the drafter is competent or not. Hand drawings could be far more expressive and informative if the drafter was a good one. I took great pride in packing all kinds of information into just line weights. And, I have a dial telephone and a record player. Get offa my... Ah, never mind.

Cool! I did the course out of interest as an adult entry student, did really well and could have gotten into an accelerated architecture degree course, but had had enough of my evenings and weekends being consumed by getting my line weights just so. I still associate John Coltrane with drawing - he gets the synapses firing.
 
I'm a gen-u-wine architect. Most of my career has been in building construction instead of design, with odd twists and turns. I miss seeing hand drawn work, because you could tell just from the line weight what to expect up to a point. CAD looks pretty much the same whether the drafter is competent or not. Hand drawings could be far more expressive and informative if the drafter was a good one. I took great pride in packing all kinds of information into just line weights. And, I have a dial telephone and a record player. Get offa my... Ah, never mind.
I know exactly what you mean, visually, hand drawn just seems more realistic and life-like, is the best way I can describe it. Here at work we have hand drawn drawings dating back to 1916. The nicest drawings I look at usually date between the mid-20's to mid-40's. They have the nicest detail and neatness.
 
I worked at the largest Architectural firm in Miami which had been around since 1918 but was still under 20 employees. They had done just about everything of note from most of Coral Gables, Miami International Airport, U of M, the Federal and City courthouses, etc, They sent me out to supervise pile driving at age 17. I'd come home from college for Christmas vacation and they'd put me to work delivering the 'gifts' that kept the machine well oiled.

Man, could those guys draw! They taught me well and I still think about them occasionally. Especially when I produce the crappy drawings I do now.
 
As a HS Freshman, I took my first mechanical drafting class and my teacher said I was a natural. He encouraged me to pursue this line of work and I did. Got my first job as a Sophomore in a die design shop doing work on major automotive panels; fenders, quarter panels, hoods, deck lids... you get the point.

Back then, everything was manual drafting and my drafting equipment was a wall board section that was 8' tall and 30' long. Quite a leap from a high school drafting table but I was hooked and they were paying me 3 times what my buddies were making in their after school jobs and they were teaching me a trade called die design.

Here I sit at General Motors at 48, doing essentially what I did when I was 16, having spent a full two thirds of my life in this trade. It's safe to say that after 27 years at GM, if you've owned a GM vehicle, chances are that I've had a hand in it.

Getting back to the drafting tool discussion...

I put mine away about 23-24 years ago and it's been all Calma, CGS, Unigraphics NX and AutoForm. Calma and CGS have been retired for years now and I use NX and AF everyday on my HP engineering workstation. No regrets, it's been a good living and I'm grateful to GM for "lifelong" employment.
 
As a HS Freshman, I took my first mechanical drafting class and my teacher said I was a natural. He encouraged me to pursue this line of work and I did. Got my first job as a Sophomore in a die design shop doing work on major automotive panels; fenders, quarter panels, hoods, deck lids... you get the point.

Back then, everything was manual drafting and my drafting equipment was a wall board section that was 8' tall and 30' long. Quite a leap from a high school drafting table but I was hooked and they were paying me 3 times what my buddies were making in their after school jobs and they were teaching me a trade called die design.

Here I sit at General Motors at 48, doing essentially what I did when I was 16, having spent a full two thirds of my life in this trade. It's safe to say that after 27 years at GM, if you've owned a GM vehicle, chances are that I've had a hand in it.

Getting back to the drafting tool discussion...

I put mine away about 23-24 years ago and it's been all Calma, CGS, Unigraphics NX and AutoForm. Calma and CGS have been retired for years now and I use NX and AF everyday on my HP engineering workstation. No regrets, it's been a good living and I'm grateful to GM for "lifelong" employment.
Good thing there has never been a GM post 1989 in my family :roflmao::roflmao: (Mostly a Mopar family anyways)

Joking aside that's one hell of a life story!
 
Pulled into the driveway at 12:15 AM after a full day of amusement park activity and was sound asleep by 12:30. The alarm went off at 4:30 and I hit the shower to get my arse to work for 6 AM. I will try to remember to do this today but today, my employer and TB aren't getting the best I usually have to offer.



I'll get measurements and pics... hopefully today after work.
Nah man... don't worry about that today. Just get through yer day without killin' or dyin'... have a nice meal with your family, & fall asleep in front of the TV. I'm fairly certain that's protocol...
 
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$275 technically, since $75 was what I was trying to sell the pedal for, but since the pedal was donated to me, it could be thought of as truly costing me $200. I wasn't getting much response to the pedal, so it might have been one of those meant to be things.

Anyone in so cal have a Dunlop 105q they would sell for the $50 I have left? My OLP ray is going to be bead'd and taken off system duty, provided the classic sets up OK for my drop C set, and the stress cracks don't indicate that the headstock is ready to come off lol. I won't be able to have time to do my setup and restring till the end of the week. Goth will likely be the "backup" now.
I found one at $60...

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