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Thunderbird Club

So I keep considering just learning how to set up my blackbird my self going by the theory I taught myself to build a pc I can teach myself this. I have a couple questions though

1. The bridge has started to pull away from the body. I'm assuming if I remove the strings and screw it back in I can the just re adjust it untill it seems right. (not able to get a picture of it right now as I'm not at home)

2. Will any strap button fit in one of the neck bolt holes (this seems to be the way to fix neck dive)

3. How essential is filling the nut. That's what worries me the most as going too far by accident there will cause major problems.
 
So I keep considering just learning how to set up my blackbird my self going by the theory I taught myself to build a pc I can teach myself this. I have a couple questions though

1. The bridge has started to pull away from the body. I'm assuming if I remove the strings and screw it back in I can the just re adjust it untill it seems right. (not able to get a picture of it right now as I'm not at home)

2. Will any strap button fit in one of the neck bolt holes (this seems to be the way to fix neck dive)

3. How essential is filling the nut. That's what worries me the most as going too far by accident there will cause major problems.

In regards to question #1:

In order for you to avoid the bridge from pulling away from the body (assuming you mean one of the inserts are pulling out), you should adjust the 3-point bridge so the front stud is higher than the 2 side studs - This will put less tension on these and keep them from being pulled out of the body...

In regards to question #2:

That depends on the strap button in question... Some will fit fine (stock ones), other won't without being drilled out - And then again some won't at all (Schaller straplocks). I usually just drill an extra hole for my Schallers through the neck plate on my bolt-ons - right between the two neck screws facing towards the headstock.
 
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NBD today!!! :)

Finally got my Epi Limited Edition in Pelham Blue...

It was well worth the wait and extra costs having it shipped from the U.S.

It's in mint condition as it left the factory with absolutely no signs of wear whatsoever - Even still has the protective film on the PG, cavity panel and all 4 tuners. Also has the original factory strings and is perfectly intonated - Just need an adjustment of the action, which is a bit high for my liking.

The colour is simply gorgeous and will make a perfect match for my Limited Edition in Metallic Red! :)

image.jpg


image.jpg
 
NBD today!!! :)

Finally got my Epi Limited Edition in Pelham Blue...

It was well worth the wait and extra costs having it shipped from the U.S.

It's in mint condition as it left the factory with absolutely no signs of wear whatsoever - Even still has the protective film on the PG, cavity panel and all 4 tuners. Also has the original factory strings and is perfectly intonated - Just need an adjustment of the action, which is a bit high for my liking.

The colour is simply gorgeous and will make a perfect match for my Limited Edition in Metallic Red! :)

View attachment 631762

View attachment 631764

Congrats!! Such a cool color for a bird!!

So.....has your wife seen it yet????
 
So I keep considering just learning how to set up my blackbird my self going by the theory I taught myself to build a pc I can teach myself this. I have a couple questions though

1. The bridge has started to pull away from the body. I'm assuming if I remove the strings and screw it back in I can the just re adjust it untill it seems right. (not able to get a picture of it right now as I'm not at home)

In regards to question #1:

In order for you to avoid the bridge from pulling away from the body (assuming you mean one of the inserts are pulling out), you should adjust the 3-point bridge so the front stud is higher than the 2 side studs - This will put less tension on these and keep them from being pulled out of the body...

In regards of Hillerup's suggestion that is true. Always keep the front stud raised slightly higher than the back two to keep the string tension. But to answer your stud pulling, you should remove the bridge,apply a shirt to the body, & take a hammer (the nail puller end) & pull the stud out, If it's the one on the side of the controls, make sure the ground wire is exposed enough that it contacts the stud post. It's happened to my goth bird & i used contact cement on both rear studs & they've stayed perfectly with no issue when i change strings. Best of luck.

In regards to question #2:

That depends on the strap button in question... Some will fit fine (stock ones), other won't without being drilled out - And then again some won't at all (Schaller straplocks). I usually just drill an extra hole for my Schallers through the neck plate on my bolt-ons - right between the two neck screws facing towards the headstock.

2. Will any strap button fit in one of the neck bolt holes (this seems to be the way to fix neck dive)

The strap pin on the upper "horn" usually has a big enough hole to fit through one of the neck plate screws (mine is located on the top right bolt). It cures the dive. But no other strap pin will fit unless you either drill another hole in the body/neck plate.

3. How essential is filling the nut. That's what worries me the most as going too far by accident there will cause major problems.

Only focus on filling the nut if you're changing the old one (if it broke or something). When that comes, grab a long enough pencil that can rest over the 3 first frets & cut it from the tip of the lead down to the base of the pencil. It'll be half & will sit on your frets to mark on the nut the fret height. This will be your guide when filling to not go below that line. If you file to low, you'll have string buzz, if you don't file enough, your action will be too high to have ease of play.
 
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NBD today!!! :)

Finally got my Epi Limited Edition in Pelham Blue...

It was well worth the wait and extra costs having it shipped from the U.S.

It's in mint condition as it left the factory with absolutely no signs of wear whatsoever - Even still has the protective film on the PG, cavity panel and all 4 tuners. Also has the original factory strings and is perfectly intonated - Just need an adjustment of the action, which is a bit high for my liking.

The colour is simply gorgeous and will make a perfect match for my Limited Edition in Metallic Red! :)

Beauty! I like those Weevil and Sawyer Beetle pics too. What exactly are those?
 
  • Like
Reactions: hillerup
NBD today!!! :)

Finally got my Epi Limited Edition in Pelham Blue...

It was well worth the wait and extra costs having it shipped from the U.S.

It's in mint condition as it left the factory with absolutely no signs of wear whatsoever - Even still has the protective film on the PG, cavity panel and all 4 tuners. Also has the original factory strings and is perfectly intonated - Just need an adjustment of the action, which is a bit high for my liking.

The colour is simply gorgeous and will make a perfect match for my Limited Edition in Metallic Red! :)

View attachment 631762

View attachment 631764

{rain drops emoji x3} [only those aren't rain drops]

It's beautiful.
 
Only focus on filling the nut if you're changing the old one (if it broke or something). When that comes, grab a long enough pencil that can rest over the 3 first frets & cut it from the tip of the lead down to the base of the pencil. It'll be half & will sit on your frets to mark on the nut the fret height. This will be your guide when filling to not go below that line. If you file to low, you'll have string buzz, if you don't file enough, your action will be too high to have ease of play.

That's a pretty cool tip with the pencil... Never would have thought of that. :)
 
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I went to the local big box retailer to check on the status of my Gibson 335 Studio on order and decided to have a go at the Epiphone Thunderbird Pro on the wall ($659.99 CAD tag) and when I had a look over the thing, I discovered this:
birdy.jpg


Other than the far wider and thinner neck than my 2012 Gibson Thunderbird, it felt pretty good to play and sounded pretty good with the active Epiphone pickups. But the finish stuff leaves a bit to be desired. You guys have any gapping like that on your input jacks?