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Thunderbird Club

How close together are the 10s? You could

1. enlarge one of the 10 cutouts and make a 212 (blocking two of the cutouts)

2. enlarge three of the cutouts and make a 412

3. take a sledgehammer and reduce the cab to firewood.
3 is probably the best option. I'll be getting replacement drivers in time. The more I look at things and mess around with (probably faulty) online calculators, the more it seems that an Eminence Alpha 10 is the way to go for the 10s and an Alpha 12 is as close to good as I'll be able to get for the 12. It might sound OK. And, for now, I don't even have a head to drive it with. The 360s are all powered cabinets with a preamp. I don't have a stand alone bass head of any kind for the time being. I tested the drivers by wiring them one at a time and driving them with the power amp I use in the band room to drive vocal monitors. Then the multi-meter to confirm life/death. Two dead, one alive. I might just keep the live one, because why not?
 
Oh, good! I misunderstood. Porting should help those dimensions a whole lot!

The only decent advice I have (knowing nothing about the design) is to not be tempted to cut in larger/different holes than what’s there. Try to make it work in it’s existing config
That's the current plan. If it even halfway works, it's a win because it will be so weird looking. It's heavy has sin, even without drivers. I don't think there's any likelihood of it coming apart under full load.
 
Because it probly won't be "alive" for very long after ya put it back together & start usin' it;)
The sound of a speaker coming apart can be pretty good. I have a little Gibson BR9 amp that was originally made for lap steel use. I got it in trade for a bass head I didn't like, and it had all kinds of problems including a torn speaker cone. With the torn speaker cone, it sounded great! The problems meant it was noisy, had no volume, and was probably a fire and shock hazard, so I got it all fixed and all the tired bits replaced. It sounds great now, too, but with an intact speaker cone, it's not nearly as wonderfully ratty sounding.

If the speaker just shorts or has some kind of meltdown that makes it an open circuit, that's not so good.
 
I made a little time to take the cabinet apart this evening. I was wrong about the drivers and was off with the dimensions. Dimensions are 8.5" deep, 14" wide, and 54.5" tall inside. So, a little over 3.75 cubic feet. The vents on the back are 2" wide by 9.5" tall, with rounded ends. I could do the math and figure it out exactly, but 18 square inches seems right enough for me. The bottom driver turned out to be a 12, and it has an open circuit in it - infinite resistance. It looks completely different from the other two, but the hole in the baffle and mounts appear factory. It also has a metal dust cap with a vent in the center, like Kustom used in the '60s. Who knows. The other two are much lighter duty 10s. One works and measures at 10.6 ohms. The other one has an open circuit in it and doesn't work. They look like generic old speakers with small square magnets, unlike the 12, which has a big round magnet. The cabinet is heavy even without the two dead drivers, and the 12 is a heavy beast by itself. So, a little more head scratching.

It has a model "2+2" designation on its serial number plate. That's good for some intardweb research right there. Which has failed. Kustom maybe made four of 'em, decided it was a bad idea and stopped. Another who knows.

This cabinet may be one of the dumbest ideas out there, but I'm sure having a good time so far.
They reminded me of Shure Vocal Masters and we know what top-notch sound Those reproduced!:rollno: