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Thunderbird Club
- Thread starter TBird1958
- Start date
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- Tags
- club thunderbird
Same here, been wanting a Pelham too.
3M 950 .005 double stick medium bond for the pickguard. Rings are taped to ABS spacers with 3M 9469 VHB (Very High Bond) double stick. Then the ABS attached to body with 3M 950.
The 9469 VHB stuff is automotive trim grade. Once it grabs it isn't going anywhere. The 950 really holds but you can remove it. I just used two strips the size of the ring under the pickguard and one 1/2 square at each horn. That way the customer can remove the guard and ring and just use the ring. I sent him another ring spacer for that. You can see a ring and spacer below the headstock.
Okay, I really appreciate how much thought goes into your work, man! That is awesome. (Also, that bass looks really fine sans-guard). I'm impressed.
Welcome to the new members!
I am getting the 7enderbird bug.
I found these kits for sale in Australia (obviously sourced from OS) at a reasonable price and I am seriously considering it.
They won't sell the bodies separately for much cheaper but the neck pocket measurements they sent me seem pretty close to the dimensions of a 7ender neck heal.
Any other options in the same price range that don't involve stripping a poly finish to start with?
Any set backs with the use of basswood for the body?
How good is nitro aerosol?
How hard is to position the bridge- I would probably go Hipshot or similar? Other suggestions welcome?
Any other problems that you guys can see?
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They also do an RD! Hmm... I have a NOS loaded RD Standard guard here as a spare.
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My current thinking is along the lines of a maple board Telecaster Bass neck of some description- maybe bound and blocked in black- love the small headstock and maple. Long stem vintage reverse wind tuners. Thunderbuckers.
Finished in shell pink nitro- which I believe you can get in aerosol.
I am getting the 7enderbird bug.
I found these kits for sale in Australia (obviously sourced from OS) at a reasonable price and I am seriously considering it.
They won't sell the bodies separately for much cheaper but the neck pocket measurements they sent me seem pretty close to the dimensions of a 7ender neck heal.
Any other options in the same price range that don't involve stripping a poly finish to start with?
Any set backs with the use of basswood for the body?
How good is nitro aerosol?
How hard is to position the bridge- I would probably go Hipshot or similar? Other suggestions welcome?
Any other problems that you guys can see?
Invalid Link Removed
They also do an RD! Hmm... I have a NOS loaded RD Standard guard here as a spare.
Invalid Link Removed
My current thinking is along the lines of a maple board Telecaster Bass neck of some description- maybe bound and blocked in black- love the small headstock and maple. Long stem vintage reverse wind tuners. Thunderbuckers.
Finished in shell pink nitro- which I believe you can get in aerosol.
Veebass, those look pretty cool! Where did you see the neck pocket dimentions? Looks like a square heel.
Though most will say the Classic Pro is the way to go, I'm a big Pro IV fan. When I put flatwounds on mine, it went from bass to BASS!Can I join? I picked up this Epi Pro-IV off Craigslist today. I don't think it has a scratch on it.
I was specifically looking for a active bass. I still like my passive Peavey Foundation. I want to try an active for a bit. It needs to strings and I think I'm going to try some flats. Did you go with the heavier gauge wire or the regular?
Lights.
Believe it or not I found a store that had a dozen packs of 40-year-old flats!
I understand they're actually D'Addario flatwounds.
I've since bought 3 more sets.
Believe it or not I bought a pack of 40-year-old flats.
Lights.
Believe it or not I found a store that had a dozen packs of 40-year-old flats!
I understand they're actually D'Addario flatwounds.
I've since bought 3 more sets.
Are the older strings better?
Roundwounds might only last a few months, but plenty of people keep flatwounds on their basses forever.
As for being better...subjective.
But for only $15...can't go wrong.
Although, I'd recommend LaBella gold tapewounds...they're going on my next Thunderbird.
As for being better...subjective.
But for only $15...can't go wrong.
Although, I'd recommend LaBella gold tapewounds...they're going on my next Thunderbird.
So, I have a problem. I have a hum whenever I'm not touching metal on the bass. It didn't do this at all yesterday when I was practicing. I wonder if this is why the guy sold it. Anyway I've done some searching and it sounds like a shielding issue but I have seen a couple sites that said active basses aren't really susceptible to it. Could it be a ground? Any ideas? Thank you for any help.
Donovan
Donovan
hillerup
There are basses, and there are Thunderbirds!
Noise (humm and hiss) seems to be a common problem with the Epi Pro-IV and Pro-V's - You are not the only one, it's the electronics that are cheap and noisy.
There has been many posts about this on the internet and here on TB. People seem to have tried many things including shielding with varying degrees of results. But if you problem is new, it suppose it could be a loose or cold solder somewhere or just bad grounding.
My Pro-V has a annoying hiss when I turn up the tone - Otherwise it seems quiet, but I haven't yet used it in a band/live setting, so there may be other issues that I'm unaware of. I can't tell if my Pro-IV is silent or not, as I haven't had the chance to test it properly yet.
Both of mine are going to have their electronics removed and turned into passive ones instead, whenever there's a week with 8 days in it... Definitely a project for this autumn/winter when I have finished other less interesting home projects.
When you experienced the hum, were you near any neon lighting or plasma televisions?
