We don't need details of how you slap and poop.Fat fingers on the phone make for some good typos, eh?
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We don't need details of how you slap and poop.Fat fingers on the phone make for some good typos, eh?
We don't need details of how you slap and poop.![]()
That does it! I"m so upset that I'm keeping the ACC stack! And leaving the grass stains on my knuckles for another week, at least!Sorry to disappoint, but that was a jokeOther people without gangly arms can torture themselves all they want, but I choose not to.
Tell that to this little lady... she's all of 5' 1" or 2". No problem.
While I only tried flats once, and therefore have no expertise with them... Cobalt Rounds, I'm into!
@Andii Syckz, if you like the thicker strings and you're willing to give a different style of EBs a go... you might wanna add their Cobalt Rounds (in the 55-110 Power set) to your 'to-try' list (although you did mention prefering the 50 over the 55 on other G strings.) I find them to have a decent even feel & tone, + last longer than their nickel round Slinkys.
Just my 2¢ of course
Love T-Birds, can't play them due to the neck sticking way out. T-Birds are meant for people with longer arms than me.
BTW, I DO have some solid state amps...all Ampeg, though.
hmmmm, so why would you want flats that don't sound like flats?This for the win!
Cobalt flats are the most un-flat sounding flat string I've tried. Pairs very well with the raucous nature of the bird.
Takes technique.
In my case, I don't like the feel of rounds.hmmmm, so why would you want flats that don't sound like flats?![]()
and don't like the sound of flats?In my case, I don't like the feel of rounds.
Sorry to disappoint, but that was a jokeOther people without gangly arms can torture themselves all they want, but I choose not to.
Along with skill and talent.
In my case, the talent is there, my skill is a bit behind.![]()
I would never try to convince anyone to play a T-bird - they aren't for everyone. Due to it's inherent design shortfalls, T-birds played at a standard waistline position require shifting it back so that the upper hump of the body is poking your ribs. Not ideal but it works to bring first position within reach and also helps with neck-dive. I loop my strap over the lower elbow bout which pulls the bass into your body and further stabilizes it. So a bit high-matenance played in a standard position (compared to hanging it low) - but is well worth doing if wanting to play a T-bird.
View attachment 3229635
Like(d) the sound of Chromes and Tapewounds for most of my basses. Didn't like Chromes on the EpiBird 5er('P' pup) so that's why I put the Cobalt Flats on it. The Chromes on the '67 were getting old so I put the Cobalts on it and have to roll off highs from the normal 7 to about 5 on the neck pup otherwise a bit too 'jangly' for what we do. I have 1/2 rounds on the LPB25 and am planning on putting Chromes on it-maybe. With the active stock Barts, I haven't yet found the right strings for it. The Chromes from the 5er are still here(I didn't cut them off)and I might put them on the Les Paul just to see how they sound. They were only on the EpiBird a short time so they aren't worn out. Oh, one other thing(Columbo), I only use the bridge pup-w/ the neck pup-on the Les Paul.<to clarify(sort of)>I don't use the bridge pup on any bass('67 NR, Epi 5er, Ibanez semi-hollow, 5quier VM Jaguar)except the LPB25. I hope that's as clear as the neck pup on an EB3.and don't like the sound of flats?

Like Ampeg rigs, Thunderbirds aren't for everyone.Sorry to disappoint, but that was a jokeOther people without gangly arms can torture themselves all they want, but I choose not to.
HUH??!!Like(d) the sound of Chromes and Tapewounds for most of my basses. Didn't like Chromes on the EpiBird 5er('P' pup) so that's why I put the Cobalt Flats on it. The Chromes on the '67 were getting old so I put the Cobalts on it and have to roll off highs from the normal 7 to about 5 on the neck pup otherwise a bit too 'jangly' for what we do. I have 1/2 rounds on the LPB25 and am planning on putting Chromes on it-maybe. With the active stock Barts, I haven't yet found the right strings for it. The Chromes from the 5er are still here(I didn't cut them off)and I might put them on the Les Paul just to see how they sound. They were only on the EpiBird a short time so they aren't worn out. Oh, one other thing(Columbo), I only use the bridge pup-w/ the neck pup-on the Les Paul.

LOL - actually I did want flats that sounded like flats and after trying them I decided they sound closer to a nickel round than they do to a well broken in flat. My normal string selection centers mostly around nickel rounds, but now I've added Cobalt flats to that list of favorite strings. Interesting to note that Cobalt rounds remain my least favorite string of all time.hmmmm, so why would you want flats that don't sound like flats?![]()
LOL - actually I did want flats that sounded like flats and after trying them I decided they sound closer to a nickel round than they do to a well broken in flat. My normal string selection centers mostly around nickel rounds, but now I've added Cobalt flats to that list of favorite strings. Interesting to note that Cobalt rounds remain my least favorite string of all time.
I would never try to convince anyone to play a T-bird - they aren't for everyone. Due to it's inherent design shortfalls, T-birds played at a standard waistline position require shifting it back so that the upper hump of the body is poking your ribs. Not ideal but it works to bring first position within reach and also helps with neck-dive. I loop my strap over the lower elbow bout which pulls the bass into your body and further stabilizes it. So a bit high-matenance played in a standard position (compared to hanging it low) - but is well worth doing if wanting to play a T-bird.
View attachment 3229635
I must have missed that meetingYou were just toying with us. That is the sort of thing we would do to us.

Wachya getting?For what it's worth, I'm picking up a Tbird in 3 days...always wanted one of these for...oh I dunno, about 4 decades (y)