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Thunderbird Club

Put it here......

NikkiSixx017.jpg
 
I'm getting closer to finishing my FenderBird. Put the strap pegs on it and it has definite neck dive. Am thinking of putting another peg on the neck plate. Problem is it uses bigger screws than a standard Fender neck and the screws won't go thru the peg. Any ideas how to drill out the hole to fit the screw, or does anybody make ones with a bigger screw?
Right now my idea is to put a peg in a vise-grip and drill it with the drill press. Not sure if it'd work or not.

I drilled a hole in the black right above the "Hand Crafted" on the neckplate and screwed the strap lock button on there. I've done that on a couple of my Epi's and it works great.
 
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Well I just got home from a reggae gig, it's a little past 3am. I played my Epi Pro-IV and I gotta say you really don't know what an axe will do until you play it with a band. Pretty total justice: The 'Bird does dub!

One dude kept going over to a spot about 30 feet from the band and hanging there during parts of our sets. He said he'd found the room's "sweet spot". It's got a pretty big bottom and a good selection of sounds. With a good amp this thing's hard to beat...
 
A drill press would be the proper way to do it. You could probably hog it out with a Dremel tool using one of the cone shaped grinder bits, but that would be the long way around. Strap buttons are cheap, though, so its not gonna break the bank to wreck a couple/few/ cases of 'em.

Ez process. A bench vise Is a great way, but you can fudge yet way through it if you're careful about not drilling your fingers.
 
Problem is it uses bigger screws than a standard Fender neck and the screws won't go thru the peg. Any ideas how to drill out the hole to fit the screw, or does anybody make ones with a bigger screw?
Right now my idea is to put a peg in a vise-grip and drill it with the drill press. Not sure if it'd work or not.

Drill press is the answer. Could be done with a drill but that is really dangerous and I would never recomend anyone try that ever! But if one were super careful it could be done.

I did it.
 
I'm getting closer to finishing my FenderBird. Put the strap pegs on it and it has definite neck dive. Am thinking of putting another peg on the neck plate. Problem is it uses bigger screws than a standard Fender neck and the screws won't go thru the peg. Any ideas how to drill out the hole to fit the screw, or does anybody make ones with a bigger screw?
Right now my idea is to put a peg in a vise-grip and drill it with the drill press. Not sure if it'd work or not.
I'm definitely a fan of using the neck-mounting bolt location, but if you use 8-32 stainless machine screws, you don't need to drill out the strap button:

DSC01743.jpg


dsc01356.jpg


Using 8-32 EZ LOK inserts (329-008) and stainless machine screws instead of wood screws provides a VERY solid body to neck joint and a super-strong attachment point for the strap button.

I've never had neck-dive on any of my Thunder'Luxe builds.

That said, I also use Ultralite tuning machines and my headstock shape is pretty light, too.

Here's how it's done:

Drill the 1/4" hole deep enough for the insert.

The Quick-Grip prevents the neck from rocking:

DSC01925_zpsyvjzf7rl.jpg


Tap the hole for the insert's 5/16-18 external thread:

DSC01926_zpsqiin3vfl.jpg


Use a "sacrificial" insert (painted red so I can keep track of it) as a drill guide to make a center hole that allows the bolt to clear deeper into the neck.

This is important because of the heel contour:

DSC01927_zps2rpawbrv.jpg


Once the insert is in place, I use an 8/32 tap to "chase" the inserts threads and tap into the wood below the insert (not shown).

Here is a view of the inserts installed, and the drilled and tapped concentric holes:

DSC01928_zps7mvurhrr.jpg
 
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I'm a Fender guy so far, but I've had my eye on one of these for quite some time. Lovely instruments, and I've played one a bit too. I'm hopeful that the Mrs. will bestow one on me in the near future...;)

We always welcome a convert from the dark side... ;)
 
Here are a couple shots of how I have mounted the strap lock buttons on my basses. Excuse the crappy cellphone shots. On this Epi I used a black plastic washer to try to keep the button level. It wasn't necessary so I haven't used that on others. I just used a hand drill and haven't had an issue with any of the plates so far.

20151121_082000_zpsofhxvzvo.jpg

20151121_082011_zpsel3a7no5.jpg


On my Warmoth Bird:
20151121_082127_zpse6gapfbg.jpg
 
I'm getting closer to finishing my FenderBird. Put the strap pegs on it and it has definite neck dive. Am thinking of putting another peg on the neck plate. Problem is it uses bigger screws than a standard Fender neck and the screws won't go thru the peg. Any ideas how to drill out the hole to fit the screw, or does anybody make ones with a bigger screw?
Right now my idea is to put a peg in a vise-grip and drill it with the drill press. Not sure if it'd work or not.

Why bother going through all that. It's much easier to just drill a 5th hole in the neck plate in the right size to fit the strap button, right between the two neck screws closest to the neck.
 
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I'm definitely a fan of using the neck-mounting bolt location, but if you use 8-32 stainless machine screws, you don't need to drill out the strap button:

DSC01743.jpg


dsc01356.jpg


Using 8-32 EZ LOK inserts (329-008) and stainless machine screws instead of wood screws provides a VERY solid body to neck joint and a super-strong attachment point for the strap button.

I've never had neck-dive on any of my Thunder'Luxe builds.

That said, I also use Ultralite tuning machines and my headstock shape is pretty light, too.

Here's how it's done:

Drill the 1/4" hole deep enough for the insert.

The Quick-Grip prevents the neck from rocking:

DSC01925_zpsyvjzf7rl.jpg


Tap the hole for the insert's 5/16-18 external thread:

DSC01926_zpsqiin3vfl.jpg


Use a "sacrificial" insert (painted red so I can keep track of it) as a drill guide to make a center hole that allows the bolt to clear deeper into the neck.

This is important because of the heel contour:

DSC01927_zps2rpawbrv.jpg


Once the insert is in place, I use an 8/32 tap to "chase" the inserts threads and tap into the wood below the insert (not shown).

Here is a view of the inserts installed, and the drilled and tapped concentric holes:

DSC01928_zps7mvurhrr.jpg

Very cool but WAY too much work for small problem that can solved with a much simpler approach...
 
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Very cool but WAY too much work for small problem that can solved with a much simpler approach...
No argument here, but it's how I mount my necks to begin with.

I thought some might be interested in using this approach to kill two birds with one stone, especially on a new build.
 
Here are a couple shots of how I have mounted the strap lock buttons on my basses. Excuse the crappy cellphone shots. On this Epi I used a black plastic washer to try to keep the button level. It wasn't necessary so I haven't used that on others. I just used a hand drill and haven't had an issue with any of the plates so far.

20151121_082000_zpsofhxvzvo.jpg

20151121_082011_zpsel3a7no5.jpg

This is exactly as I do it as well, and the best way to do it on the Epi's with the black neck plate, as they use larger neck screws that won't fit through a strap button. Epi's with the chrome neck plate use regular sized neck screws, that can be fitted through a strap button, and won't need to have an extra hole drilled - Unless you want to mount Schaller type strap locks on your bird, as these use screws with smaller screw heads than you average neck screws...
 
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