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Thunderbird Club

#13,282
I have been doing quite a bit of knob twiddling on the 2015 'Bird. It invites that kind of thing. The strange thing about it is that the G string gets lost in the mix a bit for some reason. Played by itself, it's loud and clear, but there's something about a Thunderbird G that is too close to low notes from the guitars. I have been messing with it to get more growl and thump so it takes an ax to the guitar sounds in the same way the rest of the strings do.

I still haven't launched into the thump monster mods to the bolt-on Epi. I have a feeling that it could become my favorite bass with a Dimarzio One in it. It sure balances well now that the upper pin has been moved to the neck plate.
 
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#13,283
I'd like to hear what you get if you do the Model One. I had one in a Schecter Stiletto Elite and it was a very cool sound. As you mentioned once, woody and dark. With GHS Bright Flats, and a trim-pot to cool down the gain into the EMG pre that was stock in the bass, it worked really well for me.
 
#13,285
lancimouspitt said:
Okay everything seems good with my bird.
The only question I have left.
Which straplocks to get?
Click to expand...

Or rather, which straplocks would be best for metal..? :D

I use Schaller type straplocks on all my intruments, and have done so for years - Never had one fail on me...
 
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#13,286
I'm super jealous of all you folks with strong currency being able to buy and order new gear. I bought a new Couch strap for my 335 and it's going to cost me $90 CAD by the time it gets here for a $36 USD strap. I wanted to do another build this year. Gonna get tattoo'd locally next week instead. Dollar value is the same!
 
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#13,288
Gaolee said:
I have been doing quite a bit of knob twiddling on the 2015 'Bird. It invites that kind of thing. The strange thing about it is that the G string gets lost in the mix a bit for some reason. Played by itself, it's loud and clear, but there's something about a Thunderbird G that is too close to low notes from the guitars. I have been messing with it to get more growl and thump so it takes an ax to the guitar sounds in the same way the rest of the strings do.

I still haven't launched into the thump monster mods to the bolt-on Epi. I have a feeling that it could become my favorite bass with a Dimarzio One in it. It sure balances well now that the upper pin has been moved to the neck plate.
Click to expand...
I notice a wee bit of the G string issue on my new EB bass as well but still quite tolerable. I was thinking a string change would solve the problem, maybe some cobalts for more growl not sure how they'd do on thump though. Would high beams or sunbeams do the trick? Out of habit I did raise the G string side of the pups closer to the string during my initial set up, might be the reason my problem is barely there. Just a thought.
 
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#13,289
ThaCoast said:
Back to building! I'm most likely going to only paint on Monday since i'm installing frets on the thunderbird right now. Gonna let everything set first then i'll be shaving off the fret ends & painting the sides tomorrow.
Click to expand...

Scratch that, if i can i'll be painting sometime next week, just not monday as i'm going to try & get the grabber bass back together before my own stuff. I should still be done with the bird at the end of the month. I'll try to keep pictures coming :)

lancimouspitt said:
Okay everything seems good with my bird.
The only question I have left.
Which straplocks to get?
Click to expand...

Schaller locks, it's on 3 of my basses, & never failed! 2 of them are thunderbirds :D the other is my rickenbacker copy bass cause that thing is heavy :P
 
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#13,290
ThaCoast said:
Scratch that, if i can i'll be painting sometime next week, just not monday as i'm going to try & get the grabber bass back together before my own stuff. I should still be done with the bird at the end of the month. I'll try to keep pictures coming :)



Schaller locks, it's on 3 of my basses, & never failed! 2 of them are thunderbirds :D the other is my rickenbacker copy bass cause that thing is heavy :p
Click to expand...
Schaller locks on most everything here as well. The only exceptions are basses that have rear body strap pin locations. On those basses I like Dunlop flush mount strap locks, but you have to drill a good size hole for them, not for the faint of heart.
thumb019.jpg
 
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#13,291
hillerup said:
Or rather, which straplocks would be best for metal..? :D

I use Schaller type straplocks on all my intruments, and have done so for years - Never had one fail on me...
Click to expand...

Same. Dunlops may indeed be just as good or better, but no failures in over a decade with the Schallers that I started and kept using due to the smaller size, plus in MY MIND, the design seems more solid and less prone to failure.
 
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#13,294
mistergoats said:
I'm super jealous of all you folks with strong currency being able to buy and order new gear. I bought a new Couch strap for my 335 and it's going to cost me $90 CAD by the time it gets here for a $36 USD strap. I wanted to do another build this year. Gonna get tattoo'd locally next week instead. Dollar value is the same!
Click to expand...

May I suggest a Thunderbird tramp stamp :laugh:
 
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#13,295
Quick note on the Schaller strap locks. I prefer them over all other brands but I usually find the Schaller supplied screw is too small in diameter to fit snugly in the body screw hole. I frequently end up drilling out the male (body mounted) portion of the Schaller lock to accept the larger OEM strap pin screw that came with the bass. One could instead use the toothpick and glue method on the body hole to tighten the fit but I'd rather modify my $20 strap lock than my $1500 bass, just me being me. Also, don't forget to use a small felt washer between the strap pin and body, it really does help protect the wood and gives the pin a nice professional look.
 
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#13,299
GBassNorth said:
Quick note on the Schaller strap locks. I prefer them over all other brands but I usually find the Schaller supplied screw is too small in diameter to fit snugly in the body screw hole. I frequently end up drilling out the male (body mounted) portion of the Schaller lock to accept the larger OEM strap pin screw that came with the bass. One could instead use the toothpick and glue method on the body hole to tighten the fit but I'd rather modify my $20 strap lock than my $1500 bass, just me being me. Also, don't forget to use a small felt washer between the strap pin and body, it really does help protect the wood and gives the pin a nice professional look.
Click to expand...

I used to do the toothpick filler method with the original screws, but have since adapted a different method. I chuck the screw up in a cordless drill (or lathe if available) with the screwhead sticking out and spin it against a running pedestal grinder to take the diameter of the head down so that it just fits in the counterbore of the straplock pin. If you don't have a grinder, you can spin the screwhead against agressive sandpaper, too, it just takes longer. Sometimes the screw threads themselves won't fit through the minor diameter hole, but with a drill you can screw that screw right through the soft brass straplock pin.
 
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