Hi team, here I am working in my problem with the bridge.
I have this new bridge, I´m testing it and I´m worried about the strings position. what do you think? to be honest, I wont use the bottom place of the bass (I´m kinda rocker LOL)
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I need to create something to hold the bridge in the bass, I´m thinking in some piece of metal (in different colors white/black(white as we have it in the logo) with this model:
I´m opened to your points of views (for this reason I´m posting this)
MANY THANKS!!!!
Greetings All,
Germanson13, Know how you feel. Have a Pro-V and a regular issue 4-string that I just recently converted to fretless. Bridge hardware and pots are next on my list. Most likely going to make one in brass that fits the same holes, I just abhor die cast.
What did you decide to use for a bridge, a Pro-IV unit? That's what it looks like.
If the holes line up naturally, you might try replacing those screws with Allen screws, most likely metric thread, black thumb wheels, check McMaster-Carr.
If you have the bridge placement right, you should be fine.
Impressed with you utilizing the original mounting holes. Is that a thumb wheel adjuster in the front?
Those threaded bosses in the body are very easy to remove if you know how, I'll explain how after.
Replacing these bosses with ones that will accept a different diameter thread would be a hot setup as it would allow you to anchor this bridge solidly, which it would benefit from, like it does on the Pro-IV.
Years ago, was changing some old hardware to new because of plating. Had everything done except the bridge bosses. Had no clue how to remove. Called a friend, who is an amazing luthier, figured I'd drop it off and then pick it up the next week. After shooting the $h!t, asked if there was any chance of getting it in a week. He told me it wasn't going to take a week. I said, "no problem, call me when it's done". He's good and he's in demand, so not a problem. He told me "wait here". Comes back with pair of needle nose pliers and a several smallpieces of nylon about 1/8" thick.
The nylon was used to protect the finish on the solid body's out 2" from the boss. Another block was put on the first piece for elevation. What you are going to do is install the stud that belongs. The pliers are used to grip the stud. with the block used for elevation, under the pliers about two inches Bach, you should be able to lever up the stud pretty easily. Took about two minutes to gather the tools and position and 5 seconds to lever the boss out.
I'm debating going to a 4 knob system as I despise the jack on the face of the body and right angle plugs.
