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Thunderbird Club

A few observations - interesting how your '64 pg has yellowed. Since I took mine off as soon as I got it (replacing it with the ebony/abalone one) and having it is safe storage - it is still pretty white with slight aging. On the other hand - the screened-on metallic Gibson lettering on your tr cover is still very gold. On mine, those letters have UV bleached to silvery white over time. And maybe it's just the camera angle, but the bridge pu looks shinier. Is it a replacement? Your neck pu looks like mine. But the most intriguing thing I'm seeing is the nut string spacing. I replaced my original factory installed nut with a brass one for the reason that I noticed the strings were not evenly spaced. I thought it was a Friday afternoon at the factory thing - but it appears that yours is also that way. It looks like the A&D are closer to the E string, leaving the G string (ahem) with a wider spacing. This is the way mine was, which I didn't notice for many years. So now it appears they did this deliberately and it begs the question as to why.

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The pickguard seems original and has the SS# very lightly marked on it--as if the bass was apart at one time and to match it back up. Purely conjecture. Could be all faked to make it look original. Your PG looks way better than normal given it's age. None of the usual shrinkage. It has had the typical headstock repair which was before my time. Possibly the TRC was replaced, I just don't know. I don't think I've ever noticed the string spacing on the nut before. I'm almost certain it's original, so it must have been a thing at the factory for some reason. It takes more than that to affect my marginal playing, so it's never bothered me or felt odd. But it might now!

AS for the PU, it is more like chrome. From what I recall it looked the same as the neck on the back and seemed equally old. It could be a replacement, but I'm not sure if there was such a thing in 1981. I've had it since then or early '82. Scott saw it and thinks it might be a PU from later NR or possibly they grabbed a Epi PU and mixed them to complete the bass (both of those PUs were chrome). Scott said it wasn't uncommon for there to me some mixing of components at times. Whatever the case, it sounds so good I have no intention of changing it. But I was talking to RS Guitar Works and was going to drive over one day and have them replace the chrome can with a nickle one so it would match. If I ever get around to that, Scott has dibs on the old chrome PU can. In the end, many questions may remain. But none having to do with how it plays or sounds!
 
A few observations - interesting how your '64 pg has yellowed. Since I took mine off as soon as I got it (replacing it with the ebony/abalone one) and having it is safe storage - it is still pretty white with slight aging. On the other hand - the screened-on metallic Gibson lettering on your tr cover is still very gold. On mine, those letters have UV bleached to silvery white over time. And maybe it's just the camera angle, but the bridge pu looks shinier. Is it a replacement? Your neck pu looks like mine. But the most intriguing thing I'm seeing is the nut string spacing. I replaced my original factory installed nut with a brass one for the reason that I noticed the strings were not evenly spaced. I thought it was a Friday afternoon at the factory thing - but it appears that yours is also that way. It looks like the A&D are closer to the E string, leaving the G string (ahem) with a wider spacing. This is the way mine was, which I didn't notice for many years. So now it appears they did this deliberately and it begs the question as to why.

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Good stuff....an observation I’d like to add is the sheer difference in overall size between the 64 and the VP...is it the pic? or are they really that dimensionally different?..
 
The only tricky thing I do with picks is drilling a hole in the center and super-gluing a rare earth magnet disc in it. (as seen on metal control plate) To keep it from falling out, I use thick (clear) packing tape on both sides cut just smaller than the pick shape. This way the pick is always there when I need it. Less brittle picks on the thicker side work best.

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I've had the honor/pleasure of strapping that thing on (ahem)....talk about fitting like a glove....the ergos on that instrument cannot be put into words...amazing bass guitar..
 
Gotta like brass nuts. Especially in winter...

Seriously though, brass nuts were essentially a continuation of zero-frets which were more popular on '60s Japanese and European brands than in the US. Brass nuts became a US thing in the late '70s-'80s, coupled with active electronics for a brighter more 'up front' lead bass sound. John Entwistle and Chris Squire and Geddy Lee lead the charge in that dept but the '80s became the decade of bass-up-front. The brass nut works really well on my bird - but I have tried using one on other basses and it just doesn't work as well. I think it's because birds are characteristically dark sounding so a bit of bite helps sharpen its tone. Dano's use an aluminum nut which acts similarly.

As a pick player brass/aluminum (bridge saddle) to brass/aluminum (nut) works well for definition and in-the-mix (live/recorded) clarity. At the end of the day it comes down to wanting "old school" fat/round/thick/creamy bass tone (which is awesome) or a more focused ("modern" however that is interpreted) tone that for me has three distinct layers. (strong fundamental on the bottom, mid-range definition and crisp top end) Of course all of that depends on the bass, the strings and eq at the amp. That's why no two basses can be set-up the same and sound the same. It's what makes 'dialing in' a bass fun - once you achieve it... bass nirvana. :bassist:
 
I've had the honor/pleasure of strapping that thing on (ahem)....talk about fitting like a glove....the ergos on that instrument cannot be put into words...amazing bass guitar..

I own and play a lot of basses and love them all, but there's something about that one that checks all the boxes for me. Because of the twin steel beams in the neck (no tr) its only drawback is a bit of neck-dive as it is a long bass. Other than that - if I could find another I'd get it to see if it's just that bass or if that model was a winner.

Check this out - if I would have seen it when it was on Reverb (years ago) I would have done anything to nab it. 57yrs old brand new. (100% original w/OHSC) My late '60s Coral was basically this same Dano bass rebranded.


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Good stuff....an observation I’d like to add is the sheer difference in overall size between the 64 and the VP...is it the pic? or are they really that dimensionally different?..
They are that different! I suspect to insure unscrupulous sellers with some skills don't pass one off as a vintage in some way. Then again, it may not be that well thought out...

I noticed with the newer Gibsons that the neck PU is spaced farther from the bridge and the bridge PU.
 

I knew about the whole Ox'n Fenderbirds thing but never really gave it much thought, which is rather odd 'cause TBirds and Jazz basses are by far my favorite basses.

Until I saw this pic. The reverse neck was the eye-opener.

So some time during the next few months, this is going to be my 1st build project ever. I already located a used bolt-on Epi for sale in our locals and I saw Warmoth makes a right-handed reverse Jazz neck, or I might go for a used lefty Squier Jazz, whatever.

Thx to our Queen for posting this, truly inspiring !
 
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I knew about the whole Ox'n Fenderbirds thing but never really gave it much thought, which is rather odd 'cause TBirds and Jazz basses are by far my favorite basses.

Until I saw this pic. I believe the reverse neck was the eye-opener.

So some time during the next few months, this is going to be my 1st build project ever. I already located a used bolt-on Epi for sale in our locals and I saw Warmoth makes a right-handed reverse Jazz neck, or I might go for a used lefty Squier Jazz, whatever.

Thx to our Queen for posting this, truly inspiring !

I miss that bass, am thinking I'll make a new one next year.
 
Don't have it anymore ?
Just saw in the other thread, with its extended family.

I'm assuming its playability must've been quite nice ?

It was a fun bass for sure, the neck was a no-name cheapie, next time I'm think a lefty J neck, bound and blocked rosewood board and the body may get re-done as a II.
 
I don't know who they support and don't much care--unless they feel compelled to lecture me because of some inflated sense of perceived superiority, or start superfluously bringing politics in to things. I try not to force everything into a political lens or see things as an "us verses them" them thing. But if a company does get preachy--I'm done. I can think for myself and don't need some egotist in a company who may likely know no more about X than I do (possibly a good deal less) giving me a one way lecture. That sort of ego reminds me of a favorite quote from the great Booker T. Washington: "Egotism is the anesthetic that dulls the pain of stupidity." I try not to be that person and fall into that trap, but don't always succeed.

But Thunderbirds--we can all agree on!

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Good stuff....an observation I’d like to add is the sheer difference in overall size between the 64 and the VP...is it the pic? or are they really that dimensionally different?..

Woah, that size difference is...substantial. Thunderbirds are already such sizable basses, I wonder why on Earth they decided to up it that significantly. The pickguard/lower bout is already different enough to prevent one being passed off as vintage I'd think, but talk about a gargantuan bass, it dwarves the Gibson in that picture. Odd.
 
Asked mrs. slo if building a non reverse Tbird bass with a blue flower of pink paisley finish like on the old telecaster basses would be good. She said it would be just wrong. What say you Talkbass Tbirders?


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Paisley NR ‘bird? Do it! I think the equation for that is

Awesome + awesome = awesome

Would you go for a clear guard? Clear backed with paisley material? I’m not too sure what the routing is like on a NR.
 
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Today’s progress. Hit the sides of the body with 120/220/320, put some DAP plastic wood in a few of my dig outs, applied grain filler to the front and back, and sanded that down with 320. Now I’m headed over to John Kallas’ to drop it off for a tummy contour before I continue on.

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Nice progress shots. I thought somebody else a few dozen pages back said that their BaCH NR had a mahogany veneer on it. Yours looks like solid mahogany.
 
I own and play a lot of basses and love them all, but there's something about that one that checks all the boxes for me. Because of the twin steel beams in the neck (no tr) its only drawback is a bit of neck-dive as it is a long bass. Other than that - if I could find another I'd get it to see if it's just that bass or if that model was a winner.

Check this out - if I would have seen it when it was on Reverb (years ago) I would have done anything to nab it. 57yrs old brand new. (100% original w/OHSC) My late '60s Coral was basically this same Dano bass rebranded.


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OH. MY. GOD.
 
I say go for it, but then again I may be a bit biased...
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That was a quick reply. I saw that and thought of you, and there you were next post.
Asked mrs. slo if building a non reverse Tbird bass with a blue flower of pink paisley finish like on the old telecaster basses would be good. She said it would be just wrong. What say you Talkbass Tbirders?


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She’s correct. It’s just wrong. But who cares what I think. Do it!
 
OH. MY. GOD.

Crazy right? And it didn't even sell for that much - you would have just happened to see it and know what it was at the right time. A Gibson or Fender of the same year in that condition would be outrageously priced. It's almost too nice to risk denting/chipping it!