The silks weren’t the intonation problem; that was just an issue with the strings. The only silk problem was perceived sustain/volume impact. It wasn’t huge, but it bugged me, and I’d rather eliminate things that bug me when I can.
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Thunderbird Club
- Thread starter TBird1958
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The silks weren’t the intonation problem; that was just an issue with the strings. The only silk problem was perceived sustain/volume impact. It wasn’t huge, but it bugged me, and I’d rather eliminate things that bug me when I can.
Well I'm glad we got that sorted! I've recently had to bounce that neck- dive claim back over the net... I've had neck-dive on a 7ender, but not on my 'bird.There's enough GenPop BS about TBirds out there to fertilize the entire Midwest. One trick pony, wrong. Neck diving beasts, wrong. Sound like mud, wrong. Automatic pop off headstock, wrong. Horrible quality control, wrong. Impossibly long reach to first position, wrong. Only good for rock and nothing else, wrong. Zero access to the upper register, wrong. Gibby way over priced vs Fender, wrong. Three point bridge is garbage, wrong. Pencil thin necks, wrong. Sky high action, wrong. Previous CEO was a horses butt, well I'll concede that one.
Every one of my three point bridge birds gets action set to 3/32" or less at the 12th fret on an open E string. I hate fret buzz and I have a tendency to dig in finger style up between the neck pup and neck heel where it's really gonna test your action. Zero problems at 3/32" and none with my birds that are almost as low as 2/32". I have plenty of other brands of basses and have never been able to do any better that that. So no actual truth to that three point rumor either.
LOL - I'll have to remember that one next time I get a smarmy bird comment.
In fact, you've given me an idea - if I can find a broken off TBird headstock I'm gonna buy it and store it in the hard case compartment. Then when I get the goofball bird comments I'll just open the case and show them where I store the spare headstock in case mine falls off.
They basically don’t know what they’re doing. IME, 2mm +or- 5/64 is easily achievable on any Gibson or through neck Epi Thunderbird. My Gibsons can go lower, but that’s where I pretty much set them, measured at the 17th fret. YMMV.I've heard it said (once or twice) that it is difficult/impossible to get a very low string action on Thunderbirds with the original bridge. So, I thought I'd give that a go, see how low I could get mine.
Bottomed out the bridge, strings were almost flat against the fretboard. Pulled it back up enough to completely get rid of fret buzz below the 12th fret on all 4 strings.
Do I just have an uncommonly adjustable bass, or are people wanting action that is lower than this? (3/32 above the fret without depressing the string):
View attachment 3920292
Okay, any tapewound users here? Or was that plainly stated and I'm just being obtuse?
I want to put a set on a garage-production fretless. I've played Rotos and LaBellas, the LaBellas were my fav... GHS, D'Addario, and 7ender also make them...
Might get back into the Ken Smith Burners for the 'bird...
I want to put a set on a garage-production fretless. I've played Rotos and LaBellas, the LaBellas were my fav... GHS, D'Addario, and 7ender also make them...
Might get back into the Ken Smith Burners for the 'bird...
No. The inability to achieve low action on a Thunderbird is a myth, unless there is a neck issue.I've heard it said (once or twice
Bottomed out the bridge, strings were almost flat against the fretboard. Pulled it back up enough to completely get rid of fret buzz below the 12th fret on all 4 strings.
Do I just have an uncommonly adjustable bass, or are people wanting action that is lower than this? (3/32 above the fret without depressing the string):
View attachment 3920292
I only have a set (Fender) on my 4-string Ibanez, wanted to try them out...not sure yet how I feel about them
I've heard it said (once or twice
Bottomed out the bridge, strings were almost flat against the fretboard. Pulled it back up enough to completely get rid of fret buzz below the 12th fret on all 4 strings.
Do I just have an uncommonly adjustable bass, or are people wanting action that is lower than this? (3/32 above the fret without depressing the string):
View attachment 3920292
the high action thing may come from the the front bolt being too high.
As far as I (mis)understand, the front bolt should be set a tad higher than the two rear posts. This is to guard against the string tension pulling the rear bolts up out of the body.
please correct me people.
That was my understanding, based on the setup directions I found linked earlier in this thread.
Not currently, but I had D'Addario tapes on my NR for quite awhile. I liked them, I just like the EBCF's better-more tone options.
I think it's one of those things that is true sometimes, but not characteristic. My '76 has the 3 Pt and can get plenty low. (On the other hand, my '64 Epi Embassy is all the way down. I'm using TI Jazz Rounds, which are very flexible. Stiffer strings and I would have to but the saddle tray under the lugs instead of on them.)I've heard it said (once or twice
Bottomed out the bridge, strings were almost flat against the fretboard. Pulled it back up enough to completely get rid of fret buzz below the 12th fret on all 4 strings.
Do I just have an uncommonly adjustable bass, or are people wanting action that is lower than this? (3/32 above the fret without depressing the string):
View attachment 3920292
It's an issue with the 3 Pt, but I can't hear any difference, though I'm sure there must be. I'm positively certain the band or audience can't tell it. So it doesn't really bother me unless I keep looking and thinking it has to be making some kind of difference.Hmm, maybe I just don't notice because this is the only set of strings I've had on it? (and my Pro 5 has the same kind of strings)
Maybe (not) related - how does the silks being over the saddles differ from having tapewound strings? I'm assuming the difference is because of the type of material on the strings?
Gaolee
Official leathers tester and crash dummy
Probably none. At least none I am aware of. My pro IV, now fretless has the original bridge. It is fine. None of my Gibsons had any issues with the three point. They all have Babicz bridges now, mostly because I am shallow and like the way they look better. And I spent money that wasn't necessary to spend.Maybe with not-smooth string windings, having the slicker/smoother silks in that area makes intonation easier, but with smooth-wound strings it doesn't help, and maybe could cause issues in some cases because of the "padding" the silk provides?
...I wonder what kind of differences are caused by saddles like those on the 3-point, that are shorter front-to-back, compared to those that are longer, like on my Pro?
There was never any audible issue with the silks. But I am CroMagnon so consider the source.
Yeah, I did that with the 67[tray under lugs], but as a 53 y/o bass that's already had HS issues, I'm real hesitant about f---*ing with the truss rod. I gots to see if "my" shop is open for business. It's in Palm Beach County which has-I think-the 3rd highest positive numbers in the state. I've been avoiding crossing that county line since March. Even postponed a doctor's appointment 'til things level off-some.
*ool
La Bella Black Tapewound user here, currently have a set on my 2015 Gibby, my Fender Jazz V Deluxe, my Alembic Essence and at one time had a set on my Pedulla Pentabuzz fretless. An interesting sound on fretless, woody thump, very uprightish, but not as much mawh as rounds.
Just to set the record straight, I pretty much treated my Goth bass as a test bed for my other birds. So not too long ago I decided to test the three point raised front bolt suggestion to see if it really made any difference. Brought the Cobalt flats up to pitch, had a nice low action of just over 2/32" at the 12th fret on the open E. front bolt was about 3/8" higher than the back bolts, back of bridge was just off the body.
I dropped the front bolt all the way down to the body and retuned the strings to pitch. G string, ok. D string, ok. A string, ok. E string, pop! Out came the E string side back bridge anchor. No prior history of those anchors ever coming out or getting loose. So in my admittedly small sample size test I'd conclude - keep the front bolt higher than the back bolts (at least on an Eppi 3 point). It's an easy fix but I don't intend to try it on my Gibbys. YMMV
My '64 Thunderbird has had "the repair" and, like you, I won't touch the truss rod. I get the right strings that are playable, which is just fine. A little heavier than normal for me, but it works perfectly so I stay with the TI Superalloys and have for 15 yrs or more. Used to have Rotos on it some long before that. Might again one day for the heck of it, but the Infeld's are perfection to my ear on that bass.
IIRC, I was once told the only way to get it lower would be to reset the neck. Nope. I'll live with what I gots. I'm kinda used to it anyway, having had her for 47 years.
It's prolly been mentioned but does anyone happen to know the overall length of a VP 'Bird? asking for a friend.
