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Thunderbird Club

#162,081
KaraQ said:
I got a chance to try this, with the unused jack from my GZR pickup set. Straight to the jack, even without proper grounding (or connections...:unsure: ), the p/u sounded a lot better.

View attachment 3983973

Would this indicate a bad pot? Or just a bad wiring job? :bag:
Or something else?
Click to expand...
that's good news! it literally could be anything now...careful with assuming value labeling on components are correct, spent a few hours troubleshooting a card the other day to find a 68pF cap that was labeled 680pF and should have been 680....some labeling conventions are different than those in the 60's....what value pots/caps are you using?
 
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#162,082
KaraQ said:
That's what I'm working on now :thumbsup:
I just unsoldered everything, going through testing the stuff :dead: (okay so far). I'll have to get some more wire, and I'll just re-do it all.
Also, I think I'm gonna track down some audio grade m/f spade connectors for the bridge ground & output jack, to make life easier when I have to remove everything to send it for paint.
Click to expand...
I like the idea of installing connectors, but I have yet to implement it on any of my basses. The bridge ground would be a good place for one. Let us know type of connectors you find.
 
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#162,083
Chucky Stiletti said:
that's good news! it literally could be anything now...careful with assuming value labeling on components are correct, spent a few hours troubleshooting a card the other day to find a 68pF cap that was labeled 680pF and should have been 680....some labeling conventions are different than those in the 60's....what value pots caps are you using?
Click to expand...

One of these:

20200915_070721.jpg
 
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#162,087
Chucky Stiletti said:
that's good news! it literally could be anything now...careful with assuming value labeling on components are correct, spent a few hours troubleshooting a card the other day to find a 68pF cap that was labeled 680pF and should have been 680....some labeling conventions are different than those in the 60's....what value pots/caps are you using?
Click to expand...
Yikes! Component labelling often confounds me.
 
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#162,089
KaraQ said:
One of these:

View attachment 3984220
Click to expand...
if unsure I would wire and test as I go...iow, wire the neck and bridge pups and test without wired tone control then add tone control once proper operation without is confirmed. If all wired already, remove the cap or even put another one (if you have extras) in parallel and look for changes....so often what seems (and should be) straightforward turns into a confusing mess but don't fret!....as they say...experience is what you get when you don't get what you want.....good luck:thumbsup:
 
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#162,091
Chucky Stiletti said:
if unsure I would wire and test as I go...iow, wire the neck and bridge pups and test without wired tone control then add tone control once proper operation without is confirmed. If all wired already, remove the cap or even put another one (if you have extras) in parallel and look for changes....so often what seems (and should be) straightforward turns into a confusing mess but don't fret!....as they say...experience is what you get when you don't get what you want.....good luck:thumbsup:
Click to expand...
I have no doubt @KaraQ is going to get it running!
 
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#162,093
Took the Epi EB-0 to the Monday night open mic/jam instead of the TBird. The 'jam' is outside in 95F+ 'feels like' and typical FL humidity. I really don't like to take the 67NR out in those conditions. Definitely kinda fun with ye olde Mudbucker doin' its thing-hadda take some bass offa the amp lest I get blamed for a sonic boom. The EB-0 replaces the Squier VM Jaguar SS as my backup/hot weather bass. It'll never replace the 'Bird as my numero uno. Slight size difference.
0911201458-00.jpg
 
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#162,094
Chucky Stiletti said:
if unsure I would wire and test as I go...iow, wire the neck and bridge pups and test without wired tone control then add tone control once proper operation without is confirmed. If all wired already, remove the cap or even put another one (if you have extras) in parallel and look for changes....so often what seems (and should be) straightforward turns into a confusing mess but don't fret!....as they say...experience is what you get when you don't get what you want.....good luck:thumbsup:
Click to expand...

That's a good idea, everything is unwired currently - ordered some new wires, and some connectors that should work. Won't have them for a few days yet. It'll be a great time to do that, and save the tone for last.

They say "experience is the best teacher". The more you screw up, the more experience you get! :smug:
 
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#162,096
Engle said:
Cool thread!
Click to expand...
Yeah! One thing I want to try that I read there, although I don't expect to like it, is crank the Contour knob, which as a rule I turn to 0 with extreme prejudice, and then dime the Mid knobs. Someone said they liked the effect. But that person did that after having tried a Traynor and liking but, but still preferring their GK, but wanting a similar effect.
 
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#162,099
GonePlaid said:
Took the Epi EB-0 to the Monday night open mic/jam instead of the TBird. The 'jam' is outside in 95F+ 'feels like' and typical FL humidity. I really don't like to take the 67NR out in those conditions. Definitely kinda fun with ye olde Mudbucker doin' its thing-hadda take some bass offa the amp lest I get blamed for a sonic boom. The EB-0 replaces the Squier VM Jaguar SS as my backup/hot weather bass. It'll never replace the 'Bird as my numero uno. Slight size difference.
View attachment 3984232
Click to expand...
Mr. Roarke and Tatoo...:D
 
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#162,100
PillO said:
I don't think it is possible to directly measure capacitance. However, a short in the capacitor could be directly measured (i.e. if it measures 0 ohms, it has an internal short).
Click to expand...
I have a VOM that has slots in which you can insert the legs of capacitors. I’ve never tried an electrolytic, but it seems to work on the ones we use for tone controls.
 
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