Yes, I kept reading about how Gibson Thunderbirds are not well made and must have skipped the QC line. I'm sure there are a few that are lacking, but mine is about as perfect as one can get. I will say G&Ls are superbly made and ooze quality. But still don't feel as good as a Thunderbird. But the typical G&L tends to cost less than a new Thunderbird.
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Thunderbird Club
- Thread starter TBird1958
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- club thunderbird
I’ve been to Tampa twice (credential related). Both times the weather was cloudy and raining a bit. It was exactly the same as Vancouver.
People from the prairies come here and complain about the “wet cold”.
Good to know about the warranty. I've never been a fan, but we did ask for one (at the seller's expense) on the house we are buying, so we should be good for a year. We can renew each year if we like. You have me thinking it could pay off.
In addition to great Thunderbird conversation and information, interweb camaraderie and banter with some really great people, you get bits of valuable wisdom to boot! What a great place! Oh, and PillO's wardrobe advice on top of that. What's not to like? Other than PillO's wardrobe advice.
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They are touching? Can that happen?..... Oh, I get it. The pic of you is where you are staring at them in utter disbelief.......
How did the gig go with the BBs?
Could any of you say, based on first hand experience, that a THUNDERBIRD usually has more solid lows than a Jazz bass? Any general statement?
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I know some of you have moved your rear strap button further up (like on the Blackbird, in the pic below) - any suggestions for location? Or just guess at what seems the right place?
Also, what's the best way to keep the finish from chipping/cracking at final drill diameter? I assume the drill area should at least be covered with tape first, but are there any other precautions? I've not drilled into pretty guitar paint yet...
(...probably be a good idea to make a practice run on the GBP...)
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On my BlackBird I have the strap buttons as displayed in the picture. I also have them in the more modern positions of behind the neck and on the usual butt end of the body. Gives me options that way.
I was thinking of moving the neck button also, to be behind the neck. Shouldn't be difficult to drill through the center of the neck plate, I think?
Which warranty company are you using? Ours has been fine but once we move I may want to look into a different vendor.
I was thinking of moving the neck button also, to be behind the neck. Shouldn't be difficult to drill through the center of the neck plate, I think?
Not difficult at all. That is what I did on a couple of Epi's.
But I also like to use this method:
Second method works great, and doesn’t require a new hole!
The broken-ish Dean I have is like the second pic.
My Thunderbird has Schaller strap locks, and I'm thinking it'll be easier to drill the 'Bird than to try to open up the hole in the strap button?
You and the NR I recognize, but who are the other two cuties?
People are happy to get out, but some are probably happy to be able to support musicians, too.
Yeah. Method II is what I used on the EpiBird 5er.
In my opinion, yes. The first shot is a Dunlop Straplock and I drilled the hole in the plate slightly larger than the screw. I used the recommended drill size for the straplock screw into the wood.
Having played a Jazz for years and still owning several along with a few Thunderbirds I can honestly say IMHO that a Jazz neck pup soloed with the tone knob rolled off is indeed a deep and dark sound but I personally find it more nasal than my Thunderbirds. Most of mine have a much thicker tone (Humbuckers vs single coils) with more punch than my Jazz basses. I do think the Jazz is capable of sounding cleaner than my birds, which have a more saturated sound (again Humbuckers vs single coils).
In Fender terms, I'd generally put the Thunderbird in the P bass category. But understand that none of my 6 Thunderbirds sound exactly alike. My 2015 in dual coil mode far exceeds the lowest of lows of any Jazz I've played. The Greco delivers a massive gut punch exceeding any P bass I've played or owned. YMMV
Most of mine are Schallers as well. No need to drill out the strap button. Just chuck up the threaded part of your neck screw in a drill motor, start the drill up and touch the spinning head of the neck screw to your cement garage or patio floor. Careful, it only takes a second to remove enough of the screw head diameter to fit inside the strap button.
I don't have any smooth, or smooth-ish, concrete, just super rough front step. Do you think something like a whetstone or sanding block might work instead?
I'm assuming since you've done it, the threaded portion of the screw passes through the straplock button okay?
A whetstone might work, as would a smooth concrete curb, driveway or sidewalk, heck a large smooth rock would probably work. I don't recall if I had to drill out the strap button hole to allow the screw to slip fit through, but it should be an easy one drill size up if needed. I'm positive I used the stock neck screws with the Schaller strap pin so I know it can be done.
Sounds like that's the way to go then. Plus, it'll let me put the regular screw back in the stock hole
