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Thunderbird Club
- Thread starter TBird1958
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- club thunderbird
Great question.
I've been so smitten by the Greco and the modded Goth that I haven't really played the BaCH a lot. It has Chrome flats on it now that I'm not completely sold on (a bit brighter than I like). So once I get the new rounds for the Greco I might try and put the Greco TI flats on the BaCH. After I get the BaCH strings sorted out I'll know if I want to flip the pup for something else. As best I can tell, it's not a bad sounding pup but it's kinda tame compared to most of my other TBirds.
Some time ago I jokingly said I might buy a junked up Greco IV and pull the bridge pup out to install in the BaCH. I seriously doubt I'll ever run across a Greco donor, so Lull or Thunderbucker are the more likely options if I do a transplant.
All the talk about strings gave me *ideas* 
So, I did an experiment....
...and my idea wasn't completely wrong
The Nexus strings are louder/have more output? than the DRs. But, the CP's pickups are not as hot as the Blackbird's, so not causing distortion straight from the bass.
They are also less bright, almost warm-sounding, even with a pick
on the Classic Pro.
But, the coating seems less durable than the DRs. I can already see a few small shiny places on the lower end of the E-string; my most used set of DRs are only showing through where they rub metal (bridge & nut).
Not a bad sound at all, but they're going back on the Blackbird
So, I did an experiment....
...and my idea wasn't completely wrong
The Nexus strings are louder/have more output? than the DRs. But, the CP's pickups are not as hot as the Blackbird's, so not causing distortion straight from the bass.
They are also less bright, almost warm-sounding, even with a pick
on the Classic Pro. But, the coating seems less durable than the DRs. I can already see a few small shiny places on the lower end of the E-string; my most used set of DRs are only showing through where they rub metal (bridge & nut).
Not a bad sound at all, but they're going back on the Blackbird
Don't blame you a bit. Sounds like a good plan to me.
I would like to, but I’ve never seen one.
- Mar 13, 2008
- 18,894
- 142,211
- Disclosures
- Endorsing Artist Mike Lull T Bass pickups, The Bass Shop, Seattle WA.
There are two, both are wound to 1964 Spec, 1 is 8K (should be in the neck position) the other is 9K (For bridge position). These were done very deliberately, a black 1964 Thunderbird was deconstructed at the shop, it was a particularly good sounding bass and thus was used as a starting point for Mike's pickups and basses. The original production was done through TV Jones, this was later split with Seymour Duncan as TV Jones could not produce enough to meet Mike's demand. Interestingly, Jason Lollar was approached first, but declined as he at that point did not think there would be enough demand - obviously, he changed his mind later on.
I'll do vid with the Lull and my '89 at some point, but am going to go back to the Greco and do something with it utilizing a pick, as we're discovering, they're amazing basses.
SHOW off your
yeah thought so....don’t see many BaCH in sunburst....looks GREAT, thx..too bad the BaCH logo is gone on mine...it’s really cool looking..
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What's the neck profile like on the Greco compared to your 2015?
- Mar 13, 2008
- 18,894
- 142,211
- Disclosures
- Endorsing Artist Mike Lull T Bass pickups, The Bass Shop, Seattle WA.
I play everything from Fender to Gibson to Spector to Warwick to Alembic and others and all of those in 4 and 5 string variants and short, medium and long scale. So to be honest, I've never picked up a bass and felt uncomfortable with the size of the neck, I just kinda adjust yo it on the fly. Sure some necks feel faster than others but string selection and neck finish (gloss vs satin vs raw wood) seem to impact that just as much for me. Remember, I'm just a hack, I'll play anything equally bad.
That said, I do understand some people have developed a high degree of neck profile preference. I'll get out the calipers in a few minutes when I get back home and post nut, 12th and heel width and thickness measurements for both the 2015 and Greco.
FWIW - IIRC my Goth has the thickest neck of the bunch so I might post that one as well.
Thanks. I was just curious how they felt compared to each other.
The raw data is as follows (in inches)...
2015
Width => nut = 1.520; 12th fret = 2.100; heel(15th fret) = 2.200
Thickness => nut = .750(1st fret); 12th fret = .930; heel(15th fret) = 1.650
Greco
Width => nut = 1.750; 12th fret = 2.190; heel(15th fret) = 2.200
Thickness => nut = .850(1st fret); 12th fret = .920; heel(15th fret) = 1.600
Goth
Width => nut = 1.700; 12th fret = 2.175; heel(15th fret) = 2.250
Thickness => nut = .790(1st fret); 12th fret = .890; heel(15th fret) = 1.850
Note:
1) width was measured at the 15th fret vs the last fret because the body starts to impact neck access after that point, except on the Goth which has body impact at the 16th fret.
2) thickness was measured at the 1st fret vs the nut because the Greco has a hint of a volute at the nut (very slight bulge).
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Thanks for the info! I'd love to see the 2013 NR in here as well. Assuming it's the only bass in existence you don't have, maybe @Chucky Stiletti can get these measurements?
Unfortunately, I don't have one (yet). But it's on the bucket list.
