Thunderbird Club

[JIO]

Installed the Badbird bridge on my '64 T-bird II. It's a very nice piece of kit and addresses the intonation issue with style. (kudo's Scott! ) While I was installing it I did a bit of cleaning of the pu cover, as good as possible considering its 52 year old age. (tarnish happens)

The T-bird bridge in my opinion is not a great design for a couple of reasons including the lack of required space for proper intonation. Originally because of the folded brass mute plate which was riveted to the pu side of the bridge, you needed to adjust the saddles from the butt side of the bridge. With the string end-stop unit right there (1/2" space) and the strings tightly overhead, it made for 'challenging' adjustment unless strings are off or at least very slack. When I got the '64 in '78, it still had the brass mute plate with white felt blocks, which I carefully removed and still have in storage. (pic below) So once gone, it creates a much easier access to adjusting the saddles - from the top of the bridge (pu side). I personally prefer philips-head bolts so I bought 4 stainless steel bolts (same thread/size as original & Scotts) and incorporated the original end caps to secure the saddle/bolt loosely to the bridge unit. (as in, it all stays put if the strings are changed) The original '64 bridge did not have springs and I feel you really don't need them, but I used the ones sent anyway to keep it tight.

So now those lower fb chords I used to hit that sounded slightly off now are ringing clean and clear. R&R!

Next to the original set-up. (BB bridge upside down!)

You can see that the E saddle is near where it would be on the original narrower unit - but all the other saddles rest past it's restricting boundary thanks to the deeper box.

easy access to saddle adjustment

Here you can see the saddle differences - on the '64, the E & G saddles are (equally) shorter and the A & D saddles are (equally) taller, for fingerboard arch compensation. The bottoms of the saddles have a subtle arch as well (not flat). The original is the upper one of the two near the wrench. I used them as they were ready to go w/o filing etc.

original folded brass mute unit with (now loose) felt pads and rivets still connected

 

[W.Roberts]

My first bass was a brand new Thunderbird in 1965. Daddy-o bought fer me 'cause drums weren't working out (spaz on drums) and the bass in pop music was very prominent -- Beatles, MoTown, VJ records, Atlantic, etc. coupled with the ol' man's lust for the latest anything which included hi-fi stereo systems. He bought an Admiral wich came in finished wood cabinets featuring a stand-alone unit for more stereo space creation. And it could produce bass! He purchased the Thunderbird new for perhaps $150.00 and a few years later I sold it through consignment for $125. It was that metallic blue with a single crappy pickup played through an open back Supro amp. Today it might be valuable for collectors but I wanted to play it. But the sound 'n all wasn't Fender and that's the sound, because of MoTown, I was hearing. McCartney was a big influence as well. But the Fender I got prior to selling the Thunderbird seemed to get McCartney's sound. They came with flatwounds making it easy to slide up and down the neck in his style of runs 'n stuff. Three days ago I put on D'Addario Chromes ECB82 for the EB Music Man Stingray Classic 4 pictured in my avatar. Wow. What a difference they've made in just this sort of time. They might be heavier than what I require but they sure feel right when I'm in the mood to practice (jam) with stuff for at least an hour or more. BTW, the Stingray with the birdseye maple neck produces a rather bright sound so the combination with the Chromes makes the sound punchy, loud, clear and the best classic sound I've ever heard in newer basses -- I mean to my tastes and for what I gots to spend on instruments -- not much.

 

[GBassNorth]

Thanks for the good buzz! Yeah I really like that Bullet cable, got one in white too. The one in the photo has been repaired once, the straight-end plug broke after almost 10 years of hard use. They're nearly indestructible.

Ha, yeah the white mutant bass. An art-school student friend took it home and it came back with the artwork on it. It's actually an old Hamer Cruisebass.

I had Cobalts on the pro IV I sold a few months ago, liked them, probably would sound a good deal more aggressive on the Blackbird, just judging from the sound of the different pups in each. Those LaBella tapes sound interesting though, for reggae at least. Interesting.

I'm considering putting some matte-black lacquer on the fretboard of the 'Bird. Just to be deadly. Might be just gnarly with black tapeeounds.

La Bella black tapes are my go to string for reggae. All the better if you have a totally blacked out Bird!

 

[TBird1958]

Installed the Badbird bridge on my '64 T-bird II. It's a very nice piece of kit and addresses the intonation issue with style. (kudo's Scott! ) While I was installing it I did a bit of cleaning of the pu cover, as good as possible considering its 52 year old age. (tarnish happens)

The T-bird bridge in my opinion is not a great design for a couple of reasons including the lack of required space for proper intonation. Originally because of the folded brass mute plate which was riveted to the pu side of the bridge, you needed to adjust the saddles from the butt side of the bridge. With the string end-stop unit right there (1/2" space) and the strings tightly overhead, it made for 'challenging' adjustment unless strings are off or at least very slack. When I got the '64 in '78, it still had the brass mute plate with white felt blocks, which I carefully removed and still have in storage. (pic below) So once gone, it creates a much easier access to adjusting the saddles - from the top of the bridge (pu side). I personally prefer philips-head bolts so I bought 4 stainless steel bolts (same thread/size as original & Scotts) and incorporated the original end caps to secure the saddle/bolt loosely to the bridge unit. (as in, it all stays put if the strings are changed) The original '64 bridge did not have springs and I feel you really don't need them, but I used the ones sent anyway to keep it tight.

So now those lower fb chords I used to hit that sounded slightly off now are ringing clean and clear. R&R!

Next to the original set-up. (BB bridge upside down!)

Here you can see the saddle differences - on the '64, the E & G saddles are (equally) shorter and the A & D saddles are (equally) taller, for fingerboard arch compensation. The bottoms of the saddles have a subtle arch as well (not flat). I used them as they were ready to go w/o filing etc.

original folded brass mute unit with (now loose) felt pads and rivets still connected

Lovely bass!



Scott is The Man!

 

[JIO]

Lovely bass!
Scott is The Man!

 

[Christine]

I predict a severe case of Chromitis for the 'Birds, the Volks will just be jealous cause it won't have any

Maybe on the Epi but I'm leaving the Gibson stock, I actually like the black hardware on it. I have thought about it after seeing the great job @bluenose made of his but I'm a little concerned about ripping off the plastic covers without damaging them, maybe if I could bet a spare set first I would give it a go.

The old Volks won't get the opportunity to get jealous, with my mum being the way she is it isn't getting used or looked after as much as she should be so it might be going up for sale which is a complete bummer as I really enjoy getting out in it as getting some peace and quiet

 

[TBird1958]

Maybe on the Epi but I'm leaving the Gibson stock, I actually like the black hardware on it. I have thought about it after seeing the great job @bluenose made of his but I'm a little concerned about ripping off the plastic covers without damaging them, maybe if I could bet a spare set first I would give it a go.

The old Volks won't get the opportunity to get jealous, with my mum being the way she is it isn't getting used or looked after as much as she should be so it might be going up for sale which is a complete bummer as I really enjoy getting out in it as getting some peace and quiet

Cutting the covers off the pups is very easy, I can have two done in under 10 minutes - It's like peeling a hardboiled egg if you have the right tool.


Chrome is good, Chrome is your friend!

 

[Christine]

Chrome is good, Chrome is your friend!

There's enough shine coming off the top of my head these days

 

[Rocker47]

How do you think Rotosound RS77 would sound on the bird?

I have a set on my very same colour bird right now! It's a 2006. They sound pretty nice
IMHO. Different than anything I had on it before. Very thumpy with not so much zing like rounds. Some like it, some don't. I happen to like it and will leave them on. Very smooth playability with them too!

 

[EdO.]

Where can I get a PG with that mother-of-pearl looking T-Bird logo? Not much of a modder but I'd spring for one of those if someone can tell me where to purchase.

 

[JIO]

Where can I get a PG with that mother-of-pearl looking T-Bird logo? Not much of a modder but I'd spring for one of those if someone can tell me where to purchase.

I made that ebony/abalone pg a few months after buying my bird in '78. It was my 2nd attempt, the first was made for my '63 II that was stolen a month earlier that same year. It was my 1st attempt at inlay and very hands-on. At that time I wasn't aware of the dangers of abalone dust - oh the things we do when inspired and clueless. It was a bit more crude and this one came out much better as a result of gaining experience having done it once. Haven't touched such since and wouldn't know what to charge for something like this anyway. Needless to say, modern technology can do it much cheaper I'm sure using lasers etc.

 

[redstrand]

what bridge pickup is that?

 

[JIO]

what bridge pickup is that?

It is a Seymour Duncan Hawkbucker - I installed it in the late 80's. A hand written letter (remember those?) from SD himself described how to wire it up.

 

[redstrand]

Nice! I need to change the bridge in my Gretsch in signature...looking for possibilities.

 

[JIO]

Nice! I need to change the bridge in my Gretsch in signature...looking for possibilities.

Is it similar to the Gibson bridge?

 

[GrizzleTone]

Cutting the covers off the pups is very easy, I can have two done in under 10 minutes - It's like peeling a hardboiled egg if you have the right tool.


Chrome is good, Chrome is your friend!

What tool is the right tool? And can you recommend a source for chromes that will work with the 3-screw Epi pups?

 

[TBird1958]

I don't have a source for a 3 screw cover, you can drill new holes in the pups - just don't nick the coils!

Xuron cutters make pretty short work of the job.........

This is a pick up from a Burny Thunderbird, they're all similar.

Oh the brutality!

I redrilled and used two Polished Nickel covers from Mike Lull.

 

[Gaolee]

Oh, Shiny! Chrome is good!

 

[redstrand]

Is it similar to the Gibson bridge?

It's Humbucker sized, I don't care if I have route a little bit.

 

[Mosstone]

I made that ebony/abalone pg a few months after buying my bird in '78. It was my 2nd attempt, the first was made for my '63 II that was stolen a month earlier that same year. It was my 1st attempt at inlay and very hands-on. At that time I wasn't aware of the dangers of abalone dust - oh the things we do when inspired and clueless. It was a bit more crude and this one came out much better as a result of gaining experience having done it once. Haven't touched such since and wouldn't know what to charge for something like this anyway. Needless to say, modern technology can do it much cheaper I'm sure using lasers etc.

That's some great work! I don't think it could have been done better with a laser. When I first saw it, I assumed it was a decal.