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*TI Flats MegaThread*

I finally had to throw a set of TIs away. I’m not even sure how old they were, but at least 15 years, maybe as much as 20! Tuning was still good but they were just too dead, finally.

I have them on every bass I own now, but the 5 string set on a new instrument is not working out so great. I think that B strings need some zing or they don’t work. On a 34” scale anyways.
 
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I have them on every bass I own now, but the 5 string set on a new instrument is not working out so great. I think that B strings need some zing or they don’t work. On a 34” scale anyways.

I have TI's on all my 5-strings and they work just fine. They really shine on my Muckelroy and smooth the rough edges on my Stingray Special 5H. Just picked up an Am Pro II Jazz V and put a new set on--waiting for those to break in.
 
I’m debating trying another set of TIs. Thinking of putting them on either my L-2000 (currently wearing Chromes) or my SB-2 (currently wearing Fat Beams). I’m not unhappy with the strings on either of those basses, so it’s low on my priority list. They would most likely end up on a Christmas wish list in a few months. 😆

I actually have a set that are in a drawer. The issue with them is that I had them on a couple of string-thru Fenders, which I no longer have, but the strings still have bends from the witness points that are in the speaking portion of the string when used with thru-bridge stringing. I’ve used them this way on my L-2000 and liked the tone, but I’m just wary of the string breaking at some point and also unsure if it’s impacting the sound or performance in any way.

My two sticking points with them is that I think the A should be bigger/thicker and that the E string seems to have overtones like a round while the other three strings sound like flats. Obviously nothing I can do about the A string gauge, but as far as the E string, is that normal, or is something odd going on (maybe because it’s damaged)?
 
Pssst! Hey Canadians....


So it seems like Long & McQuade is dropping TI Flats. Baffling. Seriously.

Where have you bought them from (in Canada) or found them for the best price? Seems like I'm either going to pay big money or order them from Thomann now 🤷‍♂️
 
I’m debating trying another set of TIs. Thinking of putting them on either my L-2000 (currently wearing Chromes) or my SB-2 (currently wearing Fat Beams). I’m not unhappy with the strings on either of those basses, so it’s low on my priority list. They would most likely end up on a Christmas wish list in a few months. 😆

I actually have a set that are in a drawer. The issue with them is that I had them on a couple of string-thru Fenders, which I no longer have, but the strings still have bends from the witness points that are in the speaking portion of the string when used with thru-bridge stringing. I’ve used them this way on my L-2000 and liked the tone, but I’m just wary of the string breaking at some point and also unsure if it’s impacting the sound or performance in any way.

My two sticking points with them is that I think the A should be bigger/thicker and that the E string seems to have overtones like a round while the other three strings sound like flats. Obviously nothing I can do about the A string gauge, but as far as the E string, is that normal, or is something odd going on (maybe because it’s damaged)?
I have a set installed on an old precision that was formerly on a mid-90s precision with a through-body only bridge. The strings had visible kinks but after a few hours they disappeared entirely and the strings have been on for a couple of years with no issues. So, that’s just one experience, but it’s what I’ve seen.
 
I have a set installed on an old precision that was formerly on a mid-90s precision with a through-body only bridge. The strings had visible kinks but after a few hours they disappeared entirely and the strings have been on for a couple of years with no issues. So, that’s just one experience, but it’s what I’ve seen.
With mine, I had them on the L2000 (through bridge) for a few months, and you could still see the kinks. Never had issues with tuning stability or anything, though. But I still feel like a new, unkinked set would be better. I’ll hang onto my current set for the if/when I get another through body bridge.
 
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With TIJFs the fundamental of low E is there, and discernible, and can be increased if desired with EQing.

But with broken in La Bellas, for example, the fundamental of low E is very much surrounded by something else that makes it hard to pick out, and low E, F, F# are hard to distinguish. If you raise a 40Hz slider you get more of *that*. There are threads about string flexibility that cover this, and to me it's very well established.
To @Kyle_S and others:
In the four years since I posted that I figured out why I never had a *perfect* low E. The problem was ported cabs tuned too high.
What I described in the above quote sounds like my complaint about such cabs, that "low E, F, F# are hard to distinguish", and are fogged by something. In the case of a ported cab tuned too high, that "something" is the ports not working right below the cab's resonant frequency. This is the case at 41Hz for almost all popular ported cabs (but I digress and don't have time to talk about that now).

I don't have La Bella flats mounted on anything and can't reexamine this right now, but there's a good chance that I blamed them wrongly, above. I at least probably ascribed more blame to them than they deserved.

The last part of the quote, referring to the science behind greater inharmonicity in stiffer strings (the higher harmonics go sharp), is still true.
 
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To @Kyle_S and others:
In the four years since I posted that I figured out why I never had a *perfect* low E. The problem was ported cabs tuned too high.
What I described in the above quote sounds like my complaint about such cabs, that "low E, F, F# are hard to distinguish", and are fogged by something. In the case of a ported cab tuned too high, that "something" is the ports not working right below the cab's resonant frequency. This is the case at 41Hz for almost all popular ported cabs (but I digress and don't have time to talk about that now).

I don't have La Bella flats mounted on anything and can't reexamine this right now, but there's a good chance that I blamed them wrongly, above. I at least probably ascribed more blame to them than they deserved.

The last part of the quote, referring to the science behind greater inharmonicity in stiffer strings (the higher harmonics go sharp), is still true.
I have DTF's (.105 E) on two basses, and to my ears they have the cleanest E's I've ever heard. But, both of those basses are short scale (30" & 30.7"). Wonder if that has something to do with it. 🤔

Edit: I've had problems with crap overtones with other strings on the same basses and through the same cabs, so I think it's down to the strings in my case.

[/OT]
 
Had a set of these on for almost a week now. I'm absolutely loving the feel, not too low tension like I was kinda fearing. I can definitely feel when I'm plucking too hard, though, so I'm making a conscious effort to play with a lighter touch.

Also appreciate how well they respond to the tone knob on my P-bass. About 50% gets me really close to the end-game warmth I'm looking for from flats.

The one small thing I don't like, and this is not unique to TI's, is that the strings are breaking in unevenly. The D and G mellowed really quickly, while the E and A are still holding onto their new-string brightness. I'll just have to keep playing 'em 'til it all evens out. And with how good these strings feel I find myself picking up my P-bass more and more.
 
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Does anyone know whether the TI flats have ever had differently-coloured silks?

I just acquired a new fretless that appears to have a set of these on it — they look and feel like what I’m used to on my main fretted bass, and the silks on the E, A and D strings are the typical bright red, but the tuning-end silk of the G string is more purplish, similar but not identical to the LaBella LTFs, and the ball-end is much closer to the typical red.

Pure curiosity; if the G string is from a different set, it feels and sounds fine, so I’m not planning to change it.
 
TI flats on every dang one of 'em!
IMG_0747.jpg
 
Beautiful photo, 2 saddleslab !!!!

As if the basses aren't beautiful enough, look at the floor and entrance way! WOW!

Now, let me see. Current price for TI Flats, $93 a set plus sales tax times 7 bass guitars = over $700 in strings! Yeah boy! Good thing that those TIs can go over a decade before replacement.

What a wonderful photo of basses! LUCKY!!!!!!!!!!! :thumbsup:
 
Beautiful photo, 2 saddleslab !!!!

As if the basses aren't beautiful enough, look at the floor and entrance way! WOW!

Now, let me see. Current price for TI Flats, $93 a set plus sales tax times 7 bass guitars = over $700 in strings! Yeah boy! Good thing that those TIs can go over a decade before replacement.

What a wonderful photo of basses! LUCKY!!!!!!!!!!! :thumbsup:
Thanks, my friend! :thumbsup: Yep, thankfully they last a LONG time.:smug:
 
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Does anyone know whether the TI flats have ever had differently-coloured silks?

I just acquired a new fretless that appears to have a set of these on it — they look and feel like what I’m used to on my main fretted bass, and the silks on the E, A and D strings are the typical bright red, but the tuning-end silk of the G string is more purplish, similar but not identical to the LaBella LTFs, and the ball-end is much closer to the typical red.

Pure curiosity; if the G string is from a different set, it feels and sounds fine, so I’m not planning to change it.
ISTR I've seen variability in the 'red' on them in the same set, from the bright red as far as something darkish wine red.
 
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Strings arrived today, and they're yellow packaging, as opposed to the blue with the sunburst bass I was expecting. The set is correct (JF344), and the measurements are what I was expecting. Is there any significance to this color discrepancy?

IMG_6786.jpeg
 
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