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And you need to test several examples of each wood type to confirm that identical boards fashioned from each wood type produce spectra that are (nearly) identical and that differ significantly from those produced by the other wood types.
Sure. And maybe the same species of wood harvested from different trees, different regions, and different years, quarter cut or flat sawn, kiln or air dried or roasted and non-roasted, with lacquer or polyester finishes on a humid day and on a dry day.....

You can expand this to any level you want.
 
Exactly different woods even lacquer or paint makes a difference this is why most luthiers will tell you if you're going to paint that bass strip the old paint off put new paint on because over time those things matter as they get older a lot of times your tone changes slightly too most times for the better it's like a fine glass of wine after it has aged a while .case and point I have an old G & L 2000 a lot of bass players I will say this when they bought the bass it was off white but over the years it has changed to eggshell yellow and that bass Kick-Ass. Sounds better than when I first bought it and I've changed nothing on it. Still has the original pickups and preamp and neck
 
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I would agree somewhat see most people are talking about the tone of what your fingers are able to produce...produce...but we are talking about overall tone and sound of the bass and I think that's what people are getting confused with..see when we speak of what your fingers can do we are speaking on Technic in which you play maybe this can clear things up for everyone.

Technique and skill are completely separate from the overall tone of your bass and wood definitely matters when it comes to overall tone
No we’re not talking about fingers and technique at all or electronics, we’re talking about the possibility of woods having a demonstrable impact to the overall tone of the electric bass. In other words, difference between one species of wood versus another (e.g - Bubinga vs Maple vs Ash) thus tone wood.

And since this discussion has happened many, many, many times in different threads for most here, we are actually looking for factual data versus anecdotal or subjective “I feel like..” retorts. Factual data that illustrates that ‘it does’ or ‘does not’ make a demonstrable difference.

I love all of my exotic wood basses, but other than the feel when playing and the beautiful aesthetics maybe it doesn’t make any difference at all in tone.
 
I have never given much thought to different woods sounding different until I got a Warwick. When playing my basses unplugged, the Warwick sounds night and day different from my fenders and they have the same strings.
you are right, I remember playing unplugged old cheap 70's p basses & they would sound terrible. I have a ray4 (yeah its cheap), played unplugged it has a little brighter sound, thru the amp you have to calm it down a little. But it actually has a pretty good non-muddy sound.
 
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Sure. And maybe the same species of wood harvested from different trees, different regions, and different years, quarter cut or flat sawn, kiln or air dried or roasted and non-roasted, with lacquer or polyester finishes on a humid day and on a dry day.....

You can expand this to any level you want.

Reductio ad absurdum is a good debating technique if you don't have a more substantive argument to make.
 
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Reductio ad absurdum is a good debating technique if you don't have a more substantive argument to make.

It looks like you removed the part of your comment about these discussions omitting lucite instruments by Dan Armstrong, and Danelectros with their masonite body and aluminum box-tube neck reinforcement. I'm with you @Guitalia - these oddball instruments can add a lot to this conversation. Seems like the Dan Armstrong instruments are too heavy to be comfortable, and the Danelectros seem nice playing and sounding, but maybe a little cheap feeling and not so durable? Tradeoffs, anyone?
 
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Pretty much every bass I've built has sounded different from the others. An instrument is a system of parts, pieces and materials that produces a tone. I'm sure that everything contributes to the tone, some with greater effect than others.

I've personally found that even with non-traditional woods, the general density (for weight), hardness (neck stringers, fingerboards harder than bodies) and stiffness (neck stringers, fingerboards) are the factors I look to guide my choices. Well, aesthetics too. :D Whatever the properties of the wood for it's intended application, as a builder you just factor those in and make other construction choices to achieve the same goal.

So if I'm using an ebony fingerboard, I can expect it to impart a great deal of stiffness on it's own versus say a walnut board. The ebony board neck may not need any further stiffening in the neck to provide clear fundamentals, whereas the walnut board neck may benefit from some stiffening rods. But then again if the ebony neck was made of maple and the walnut neck was made of ovangkol and bubinga, it would probably be a wash.

It's really a system of things interacting that get you where you want to go. :thumbsup:
 
I have to agree with Beej, post#155. Everything matters. And maybe someday, someone will find the time and money to do exhaustive tests, on which things have the most, or least influence on sound/tone, that most people will be able to acept the results from.

While I have used maple, rosewood, ash, alder, poplar, wenge, mahogany and a few other generaly accepted instrument woods, most of my guitars and basses have been made from combinations of Australian native woods.
As a result I've formed a general view that density, hardness and weight, (because weight is usually in ratio to density/hardness) may be more crucial, or just as crucial, to any changes in sound/tone, than actual species.

Using Australian woods of approximately the same density, hardness, weight of the commonly accepted 'tone woods' in use, and adding the same range of hardware, construction methods , pickups, controls etc. can produce incredibly similar tonal results. I'd never say identical, because I doubt any two instruments constructed from wood, can ever be identical, if they were measured under strict scientific test conditions. But we're largely talking human ear level of judgement.

I also know that two pieces of wood of the same species can vary a little, or a lot, depending on where they were grown, etc. that doesn't change them completely, but it does shift the ballance of frequencies enhanced or diminished. As a result, I'm a bit wary of blanket statements about this or that wood, giving this or that result, we're not talking about a repeatable man made product here, like a particular plastic or steel.

Just as an example, since 1977, I've used Tasmanian Blackwood quite a lot. It's a close relation to Koa, looks quite similar and weighs in the range of 5% more than mahogany and is about the same percentage harder/denser, (there's that relationship between weight/hardness/density). I think it adds similar sonic qualities as Walnut, which just happens to be average weighted at 40lbs per cubic foot and a Janka rating of 5,030, while Blackwood is average rated at the same weight but with slightly higher Janka rating of 5,180.
Having said that, about averages, I have used slower grown Blackwood from high altitude forests that has weight as much as 30% more than the average and I'd expect that sort of variation isn't uncommon when it comes to wood.

I'm in the wood makes a difference camp, but I'm pretty sure that it isn't top of the list, though in some small sample situations, the difference it might make could be outside the norms. I'm sure in some cases, the examples like, 'I have two P basses and the only difference is the ash and alder bodies and they sound completely different', is true. But one swallow (or even a few of them) doesn't make a spring', as the old saying goes.

One thing that has to be said about testing, is that every aspect must be exactly repeatable and the process must be as near as possible free from possible irregularities. A repeatable mechanical method for striking the strings is a given, even the best human can't perfectly repeat the striking of a note, at a level to provide truly accurate scientific data. A control and pickup module would be needed that can be positioned exactly the same for each sample and any screws, nuts, etcetera, would need to be tightened to exactly the same degrees of force. All samples would also need to be recorded exactly the same, meter reading might show clear or subtle variations, but at the end of the day, will the human ear hear them? So blind test recording samples.

Still, at the end of the day, with thorough monitored testing, would humans, listening to the results, be capable of forming judgements on the results free from bias/influence? If told we were about to hear the results of some tests for tonal differences between different woods, would we hear differences, because we expected to, or not her differences, because we expected not to? ( Sorry, couldn't resist...;))
 
I've had a graphite neck guitar for a number of years faced with a rosewood fingerboard. One day, the truss rod decided to snap and broke the fingerboard. I had a phenolic fingerboard installed as the replacement with a new, thicker/upgraded truss rod. Between the two changes, I am quite positive that I cannot tell the difference.